Axis AFCK

Originally posted by Phillip


Gator, read the above quote and then compare it to your's. Get back to me when you get a clue.
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Oh, that... Ok, I was refering to the same. Not being an operator I do not argue what's best for them, if it is the linerlock then it is.

However, once again, for the use of the liner lock there can be more reason than just the one in the quote.

Now, please tell me, why it is bashing to say that EKI or any other company is concerned with marketability and cost of their product?
They are business, not charity for all I know.
 
Where does you feel the Compression Lock fits into the equation?
 
Looks like Benchmade is going to make an axis AFCK! In D2 even!

View


Should be available soon.

See here for more details.
 
BTW, it's hard to tell from the picture, but I'm assuming it will have a reversible clip - hence my enthusiastic southpaw reaction.

Leo
 
Yes, Leo, I see three clip holes at the bottom for ambi clip mounting--tip-up (like I like it).

We are forewarned by CJ about the potential for Axis unlocking in certain circumstances. I've had no problems with my Griptilian, but I don't go around combat-pigsticking with it either. Full sabre or hammer grip should give no problems.

I want one too! Absolutely beautiful!

This might just be my third Benchmade.

Karl
 
Karl,

That's what I thought too, though I couldn't be sure and didn't want to hold my hopes too high. Incidentally, I prefer tip up myself, though I know both will do with practice.

I really don't have a problem with a well-made liner lock, and both my AFCKs have passed the tests with flying colors; still, the reversible clip and the tip up configuration make it more than worthwhile to me. As far as the Axis lock goes, I prefer the saber grip (which the AFCK seems ideal for), so it shouldn't be a problem.

The only thing I'm wondering is how to get rid of the BT-2 coating... I'm not fond of black blades. But that's a minor detail.

Leo
 
Even though I stated earlier in this topic that I my opinion has been altered about this lock. I'll have to give it a try. I'm thinking that if I can recess a liner lock, why not try the same thing with the Axis lock? Leave enough of the stud exposed for access, but lower the level it extends from the knife....Who knows, I might change my mind again. ;)
 
Leo:

I removed the BT coating from my Emerson Mach 1 using wet/dry sandpaper in progressive grits. 300, 600, 1200, 1500, and then a hefty treatment of Brasso just to give it "that" glimmer. It has almost a hematite/gunmetal color to it now. People who have seen before and after like it.
 
Originally posted by solid_soldier
Leo:

I removed the BT coating from my Emerson Mach 1 using wet/dry sandpaper in progressive grits. 300, 600, 1200, 1500, and then a hefty treatment of Brasso just to give it "that" glimmer. It has almost a hematite/gunmetal color to it now. People who have seen before and after like it.
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How hard was that to do? How long did it take you? I hate to have to go through that trouble to take something off that I don't want in the first place.
 
Thanks, solid_soldier! That's exactly the information I needed. As soon as I get my 806, I'll give it the ol' sandpaper treatment. ;)

BTW, did it take you a lot of time/elbow grease to get rid of the coating? Not that it really matters though - I'm sure the results will be worth the effort.

Leo
 
I finished removing the BT from the Mach 1 in one boredom ridden afternoon. You gotta put that sandpaper on the blade and just keep working it back and forth, lengthwise.
 
Is there anybody out there that can do the modification to the axis lock bar to recess it into the handle scale? I haven't had this problem with the axis, but I can see the benefit of recessing the lock bar.
 
You could do it with a dremel or a bench grinder. The lock pin itself is hardened, and would be a bear to file down. But unless you routinely grip your knife with your thumb flat on the side, I wouldn't bother. You would have to place your thumb on the lock pin, pull it back, and hold it to unlock the blade. A very unnatural thing to do. Most plunge-lock type autos have the button in exactly the same place, and they have been giving reliable law enforcement and military service for a long time. Nobody has called for a redesign of those knives, such as the original black knife auto and the Microtech UDT, etc.
 
Got mine! I really like it except for the BT2 finish. :barf: Other than that the knife kicks ass. Mine is plainedge but here is a pic of a partially serrated version to give you an idea.

281195.jpg
 
they took the butterfly logo off the handle, that sucks, but everything else about it i like, i think i'll prob try 1 in the future


sifu
 
Me too!

I love my Griptilian Axis lock, and have had no problems. Smoothest opening folder I have.

I even like the oval hole, and I'm a definite Spydie knut.

Karl
 
I received my 806 a few days ago. Solid knife, no doubt. I do like it a lot. I did post in another thread about my experience with being able to disengage the lock. It isn't an easy thing to do, but it can happen. While I was "playing" with the 806, I transitioned my grip from saber to hammer. As I moved my thumb from the spine to the side, it hit the lock and was able to disengage it. If it can happen once, it can happen again. I will be taking the stud level down a bit to help reduce the chances of this occuring again. At this point, the liner lock still works for me.

A side note - Someone pointed out that there was a dull spot on the 800 & 804 blade at the pivot end of the blade and that if the knife close on your finger, the dull spot would impact your finger, reducing the chances of a severe cut. On the 806, it is sharp all of the way and if the knife closed on your finger (for whatever reason), a very sharp edge would cut deep.
 
I reduced the hieght of the lock button on the 806. I only did on the off clip side. Looking at how the button is stepped, I took it down to the base and made it flat all the way across. This will definately reduce the chances of the thumb accidently disengaging the lock from an already low number, to practically nil. You can still unlock the knife with that same button, but you have to make a deliberate effort to do it. It doesn't require great dexterity or strength, you just need to pay attention. Which could be construed as a good thing, when dealing with a sharp knife. ;)
 
wow. i like that AFCK a lot. looking at the pic, i wonder if it would be possible to *combine* a liner and an axis lock. closing the knife would involve 2 stages: disengaging the axis, which would give it a few degrees of play until it hits the liner. the thumb could then be moved to disengage *that*, and have it fully closed. i'm not fully sure of the mechanics of it, but the liner lock wouldn't even need to be super thick, since its not going to hold up a lot of stress- just guard against accidental disengagement. in the event of a accidental disengagement, the blade would close against the liner, and not your finger. same in the event of a true failure. if BOTH fail, well, i guess you'd have been better off with a fixed blade :)



seems to me that a lot of locking systems could integrate a "liner safety system."
 
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