B13

Blade Runner 7 said:
That's way too thick IMO. The balance would be so far forward it would be terrible. I want a nimble B-13. Under .20". You need to account for that res-c handle weight.

Thin is in.
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.20" thick would make a great machete.

Thin might be in for slicers, but the better choppers are thicker. Bare minimum thickness .25" with saber grind for some weight.
 
Hollow grind might be an excellent option on a straight blade, but the curves of a bolo would probably make that rather difficult. Not that it would not be sweet, though. :)

b-c, have you had opportunity to use a 1311 right along side a .25 or thicker blade for chopping yet? It seems most who have, including myself, have found the .19 thick 1311 to straight up outperform heavier/thicker blades by a substantial amount. ;)

How many people do we have on the list now? It is nice to see the thread growing steadily. :D
 
.184 or .20 works!
Great for chopper as well as other camp chores.
Would be really fast in hand with lightweight Resperene handle.
 
Thick choppers are fun if you're standing in your backyard filming yourself chopping. I get it. I have 5 Battle Mistresses in different flavors and 1 MOABolo with another on its way. Those knives are fun. BUT whats amazing is that the 1311 can play well with those yet it handles better and carries easier. I'm looking at this as a knife that can compete with those big boys when it comes to chopping and does soooo much more.
 
.20" max thickness. Preferably .187"

Bolo.

Convex edge. (And if I can be really picky... zero convex grind.)

Please and thank you.
 
xxwarderxx said:
.20" max thickness. Preferably .187"

Bolo.

Convex edge. (And if I can be really picky... zero convex grind.)

Please and thank you.
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I am with you convex is a pain for me to sharpen but if this have to be as you suggest I am more than ok.[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
 
12 hours with no posts? we are laying down on the job fellas!

B13 13ay13ay 13ring it on!
 
This is happening soon, I have a bad knee, when the infi is about pour, my joints start hurting..... Keep the faith my brethren
 
rickshooter said:
I am with you convex is a pain for me to sharpen but if this have to be as you suggest I am more than ok.[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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What do you use to sharpen? I find convex to be very simple to work with, but one must adjust their sharpening techniques accordingly. Many cite this as a reason for not having convex edges, but IMO sharpening v-edge has it's own set of problems that must be adjusted for too. I sharpen my convex edges on waterstones, diamond plates, natural stones, sandpaper… really whatever I have access to and their is nothing special about doing so.
 
Agreed^^
Convex is super easy on sandpaper with mousepad. It's the easiest edge to maintain in my opinion. Especially when it's INFI.
 
Blade Runner 7 said:
Agreed^^
Convex is super easy on sandpaper with mousepad. It's the easiest edge to maintain in my opinion. Especially when it's INFI.
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Agreed cubed, convex is what I change all my blades to. INFI loves the convex grind, 2 or 3 passes on the mouse pad and then I finish on a leather strop
 
Red Angel Dragnet said:
What do you use to sharpen? I find convex to be very simple to work with, but one must adjust their sharpening techniques accordingly. Many cite this as a reason for not having convex edges, but IMO sharpening v-edge has it's own set of problems that must be adjusted for too. I sharpen my convex edges on waterstones, diamond plates, natural stones, sandpaper… really whatever I have access to and their is nothing special about doing so.
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Right now I use the KME. It is a little pain on the ASHBM although it was very sharp at the end (I tried this morning) and it can not be used on the 1311. I have read about the mousepad process never have tried it. I am a chicken and have not tried on the NMSFNO or the ASH-1. Need to find me a cheap knife to practice.
 
rickshooter said:
Right now I use the KME. It is a little pain on the ASHBM although it was very sharp at the end (I tried this morning) and it can not be used on the 1311. I have read about the mousepad process never have tried it. I am a chicken and have not tried on the NMSFNO or the ASH-1. Need to find me a cheap knife to practice.
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If you are going to try the mousepad method make sure to use very light pressure as anything more may just end up rounding the apex off. You could also use a piece of paper towel under it also, less flex but still the sandpaper itself will flex a little bit. That being said, I'd actually recommend using a waterstone/diamond plate/Norton Crystolon for convexing. This allows you to use more pressure without fear of rounding the apex and gives a greater degree of accuracy IMO.

Basically you'd just start grinding away at the shoulder where the primary and secondary (edge) grinds meet, it will still end up convex using a flat grinding surface as it's literally impossible to hold the same angle grinding freehand. You can get more or less curvature to the convex by simply rocking your hands more or less, which seems daunting but you really get a feel for it pretty quickly. Murray Carter has some great videos on grinding convex using waterstones on his youtube channel.
 
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