Bandsaw and Stand Review

Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
1,198
So, I did a review on the Bauer Bandsaw from Harbor Freight and the SWAG v3.0 porta-band stand. I figured I’d put a written version of the review here in case any other novices like myself are thinking about purchasing this combo. I’ve had this combo for about a year now.


Intro / What’s in the box:

The 10-amp deep cut bandsaw from Harbor Freight (item 63444) will run you about $130-$145 (less with their 20% coupon). It comes in a decent carrying case if you plan on traveling to job sites with it or something like that; and it comes with one blade. I forgot the TPI on this blade but it lasted a fairly long time.

The SWAG V3.0 stand will run you about $150 if you’re purchasing the un-coated version (this is the version I went with). It comes in a few parts, but the assembly was extremely easy. An attachment plate hooks up to your bandsaw and this plate is connected to the stand with an easy to articulate knobbed (is that a word?) screw.

Operation / Cutting Experience:

Changing the blade is pretty basic. The tension arm works well. It takes some finagling to get the new blades back in, but all in all not too bad. When using in conjunction with the SWAG stand; changing blades is still easy. Just undo the red knobbed screw and the porta-band comes out easily. To keep the porta-band running; I generally use an spring clamp. The SWAG stand comes with a Velcro strap to do the same function, but the clamp is easier in my opinion.

The majority of my experience with this saw has been in the upright mounted configuration. I’ve used it to cut some fairly thick steel. I’ve used it on 1/4'' angle and 3/8’’ plate so far (these are the thickest I’ve done and the saw performed very well). Using 18 TPI blades have worked out pretty well too; it will cut wood, micarta, steel, etc. It’s a nice tool to have around the shop and I’ve come across random tasks to use it for non-related to knifemaking (plumbing, honey-dos, etc).

One limitation is the cutting depth. I’ve found this to be an issue when cutting out steel or micarta from large sheets. The cutting depth is about 5’’ deep from the body of the tool to the back of the blade.

*Note: The quality of the 44-7/8’’ blades you buy matter… I’ve had some cheap blades that I’ve pushed too far and they have busted during operation… Make sure you’re wearing your PPE when using this tool.

Knifemaking:

I’m far from a pro, so take my perspective from the eyes of a novice. I feel like this combination has allowed me to have a good deal of control verses using an angle grinder to cut out blanks… Not saying one way is right or wrong, but I personally like the bandsaw better. I also use this saw to rough profile handle scales and cut off pins after glue-up. It comes in handy while making Kydex sheaths as well; I’ll cut the rough profile with this porta-band to reduce the amount of grinding work.

So far, I’ve really enjoyed this saw and stand combination. Bottom line is that it’s made my life easier for sure. As I mentioned above, I’ve only had it for around a year so I can’t attest to long term durability. If anything fails on it, I’ll make sure to update this thread.

Cheers,
JK

 
I have the same exact set up. I wish I had gotten the top powder coated. It did start to rust in my basement. I spray painted it which is already chipping off.

I have had an issue with the gap between the band saw blade and the table. When I cut curves, I'll go perpendicular to the curve then cut small pieces off along the curve. These small pieces get jammed in there and the blade pops off. I just put some masking tape down on the table to make that gap smaller and it seems to be helping.

Agreed that blades are a huge issue. I've tried some Starrett's which were ok, and just got an Olsen from USA knifemaker.
 
I have the same exact set up. I wish I had gotten the top powder coated. It did start to rust in my basement. I spray painted it which is already chipping off.

I have had an issue with the gap between the band saw blade and the table. When I cut curves, I'll go perpendicular to the curve then cut small pieces off along the curve. These small pieces get jammed in there and the blade pops off. I just put some masking tape down on the table to make that gap smaller and it seems to be helping.

Agreed that blades are a huge issue. I've tried some Starrett's which were ok, and just got an Olsen from USA knifemaker.

Good point! I know what you're talking about with the gap ("behind the blade"). I've gotten small pieces stuck in there before as well. I've never had one pop off the blade though.

On the blades, I've tried the cheap Lenox blades from amazon... they've worked ok for being so cheap... but you get what you pay for. Just got some similarly as cheap "Supercut" blades... we'll see how they do. Gloves with a face-shield has become a must for me.
 
I just got the SWAG table and harbor freight. Seems to work fine. The mounting screw on the swag table isn’t flush so the surface isn’t even. Unscrewing it so that it is below the table results in the bandsaw not being held securely. I haven’t yet sanded/filed it down.
 
I just got the SWAG table and harbor freight. Seems to work fine. The mounting screw on the swag table isn’t flush so the surface isn’t even. Unscrewing it so that it is below the table results in the bandsaw not being held securely. I haven’t yet sanded/filed it down.

You have the washer on the mounting screw right? Mine isn't flush without the washer. With the washer the end of the screw is under the surface and does not obstruct the table.
 
You have the washer on the mounting screw right? Mine isn't flush without the washer. With the washer the end of the screw is under the surface and does not obstruct the table.
I will check to make sure I put it on.
 
I have the Swag with a Milwaukee and I have to use a stack of washers on the red mounting screw.

I have had good luck with the Lennox Wolf blades and can't complain about the mileage I get from them...I am cutting W2/52100.
 
i had the same problem ashwinearl. pieces of whatever was getting cut off would get stuck between the blade and table. my blade would not pop off, but the blade would stop dead and i would shut it off to get it out. i cut the slot in the table around the blade wider, it was only 1/16" wider than the blade to begin with. pieces still jam in there, but it happens much less now.
 
I'm glad you had good luck with that grinder. I brought one home and must have gotten a lemon because it squalled like a cat while running and under load the speed would hunt around a lot. I ended up returning it and found an old dewalt to use.

Out of curiosity, how do you like that Kadrmas grinder?
 
I'm glad you had good luck with that grinder. I brought one home and must have gotten a lemon because it squalled like a cat while running and under load the speed would hunt around a lot. I ended up returning it and found an old dewalt to use.

Out of curiosity, how do you like that Kadrmas grinder?

Damn, sorry to hear that. I'm enjoying the learning process on the 2x72; too soon to review it though.
 
I have a Swag table with Milwaukee saw. I bought Lennox Wolf blades right off the bat. I bought 3 different tpi counts. I haven't really sat down and compared em to eachother cutting yet. I don't remember which blade tpi is in it right now but I ripped a piece of 1/2" plate on it today. Cut was 5" long and I'd guess it took 3mins. I could probably feed it faster but I'm still getting to know this tool. I'm definitely glad I got the foot pedal with the Swag table. The gap being mentioned above.......The first time I played with this tool I was shaving slivers off the end of a piece of flat bar and a sliver jammed the blade in the gap.
One more thing, the built in light on the Milwaukee is nice. It kinda throws a shadow of the blade right down the line of cut.
 
Hello,
Anyone know the difference between the Swag 3.0 and the 4.0? I saw J cut the 1084 high carbon steel in his video (that video was what I was looking for when trying to see if the Bauer would cut high carbon steel), seems to be the only one I could find.. that’s what I’m looking to do. I suppose purchasing the Bauer 63444 portable band saw from harbor freight and swag stand has me looking around $300. I am limited on space and need every inch of workbench. Most of yall bolt the Swag down? How does 1095 do? Probably the same as 1084? Would I need to change out the blades when cutting Micarta, liners, and Kydex? I’m about to pop my cherry with knife making, just grinder the mill scale off my 1084 piece of stock. I’m open to any and all advice, opinions, discussions.. I use the 1x30 Ripken belt grinder, thinking about how many pieces of stock it’s going to take me to get the beveling down. I saw lots of vids about making/using jigs. I just joined the forum and been reading/YouTubing knifemaking from the hospital. Soooooo ready to get wet lol. Thanks guys.
-Clay
 
Hello,
Anyone know the difference between the Swag 3.0 and the 4.0? I saw J cut the 1084 high carbon steel in his video (that video was what I was looking for when trying to see if the Bauer would cut high carbon steel), seems to be the only one I could find.. that’s what I’m looking to do. I suppose purchasing the Bauer 63444 portable band saw from harbor freight and swag stand has me looking around $300. I am limited on space and need every inch of workbench. Most of yall bolt the Swag down? How does 1095 do? Probably the same as 1084? Would I need to change out the blades when cutting Micarta, liners, and Kydex? I’m about to pop my cherry with knife making, just grinder the mill scale off my 1084 piece of stock. I’m open to any and all advice, opinions, discussions.. I use the 1x30 Ripken belt grinder, thinking about how many pieces of stock it’s going to take me to get the beveling down. I saw lots of vids about making/using jigs. I just joined the forum and been reading/YouTubing knifemaking from the hospital. Soooooo ready to get wet lol. Thanks guys.
-Clay

Glad you liked the review.

I recommend bolting or clamping down the stand to the work bench you’re using. Mine is bolted down with 2 lag screws.

It will cut 1095 just fine from your supplier. Be aware it won’t cut worth a damn on heat treated steel; but the steel stock you buy should be annealed.

I don’t change blades for kydex/wood/micarta/etc. I’ve found 14 to 18 TPI blades work well for multiple materials.

Edit: I’m fairly sure the different versions on the SWAG stands are related to the bandsaws they’ll accept with the mounting hardware. Make sure to read the descriptions on Amazon before buying the stand to make sure you bandsaw is listed.
 
Hello,
Anyone know the difference between the Swag 3.0 and the 4.0? I saw J cut the 1084 high carbon steel in his video (that video was what I was looking for when trying to see if the Bauer would cut high carbon steel), seems to be the only one I could find.. that’s what I’m looking to do. I suppose purchasing the Bauer 63444 portable band saw from harbor freight and swag stand has me looking around $300. I am limited on space and need every inch of workbench. Most of yall bolt the Swag down? How does 1095 do? Probably the same as 1084? Would I need to change out the blades when cutting Micarta, liners, and Kydex? I’m about to pop my cherry with knife making, just grinder the mill scale off my 1084 piece of stock. I’m open to any and all advice, opinions, discussions.. I use the 1x30 Ripken belt grinder, thinking about how many pieces of stock it’s going to take me to get the beveling down. I saw lots of vids about making/using jigs. I just joined the forum and been reading/YouTubing knifemaking from the hospital. Soooooo ready to get wet lol. Thanks guys.
-Clay
I recommend a Gough Jig combined with some coarse and medium files to hog off material for the bevel. Relying on the 1x30 to remove a lot of metal is going to go through a lot of belts. Save the 1x30 for refining scratch patterns and handle work.
 
How do you like the saw itself? I debated long whether to buy the Bauer at HB or the Milwaukee for 3x the price; I've had good experiences with my Milwaukee drill/drivers so I shelled out for the more expensive tool.

Do you guys find the SWAG table is big enough, or would a wider and/or deeper work surface be beneficial?
 
Back
Top