Bandsaw and Stand Review

[Carterwhopkins]

It works well, the 5" depth is the biggest limitation. For me it is an indispensable tool, I have a Milwaukee saw and the powder coated table and I run it with a foot pedal. I would buy the same setup again. My mounting screw for the saw didn't work out of the box, had to stack a few washers on it so that it would tighten and not protrude through the table....no biggie. After a few years the rubber band saw tires will crack....you can get replacements on Amazon.

 

[Cburr84]

Glad you liked the review.

I recommend bolting or clamping down the stand to the work bench you’re using. Mine is bolted down with 2 lag screws.

It will cut 1095 just fine from your supplier. Be aware it won’t cut worth a damn on heat treated steel; but the steel stock you buy should be annealed.

I don’t change blades for kydex/wood/micarta/etc. I’ve found 14 to 18 TPI blades work well for multiple materials.

Edit: I’m fairly sure the different versions on the SWAG stands are related to the bandsaws they’ll accept with the mounting hardware. Make sure to read the descriptions on Amazon before buying the stand to make sure you bandsaw is listed.

Thanks for the reply.

I wanted to confirm that when you say you do not change the 14 or 18 TPI blades for kydex,wood,micarta,etc., you’re also referencing the high carbon steel(1084,1095)? I bought the Harbor Freight Bauer Band Saw 63444, and I’m just wondering if getting the 14,18 teeth would I need anything further for cutting out the profile of the steel as well as the other items previously mentioned. Thanks man.
-Clay

 

[Cburr84]

I recommend a Gough Jig combined with some coarse and medium files to hog off material for the bevel. Relying on the 1x30 to remove a lot of metal is going to go through a lot of belts. Save the 1x30 for refining scratch patterns and handle work.

I’m also looking to countersink some pinholes along with other holes I’m making in the tang. Does it matter what size countersink bit I buy for 1/8” (.125) holes? How do you usually just eyeball your pin/river holes?

 

[ashwinearl]

I’m also looking to countersink some pinholes along with other holes I’m making in the tang. Does it matter what size countersink bit I buy for 1/8” (.125) holes? How do you usually just eyeball your pin/river holes?

I got a cheap center punch /counter sink set from Harbor Freight. And just pick one that won't enlarge the existing hole.

 

[J. Keeton]

Thanks for the reply.

I wanted to confirm that when you say you do not change the 14 or 18 TPI blades for kydex,wood,micarta,etc., you’re also referencing the high carbon steel(1084,1095)? I bought the Harbor Freight Bauer Band Saw 63444, and I’m just wondering if getting the 14,18 teeth would I need anything further for cutting out the profile of the steel as well as the other items previously mentioned. Thanks man.
-Clay

I use the same blade for everything. Either 14 or 18 TPI will work. I have 14s now because they were cheaper. I was using 18s before.

 

[Cburr84]

I got a cheap center punch /counter sink set from Harbor Freight. And just pick one that won't enlarge the existing hole.

Ok, got the center punch and made 1/4” lanyard hole and 1/8” for other two holes. I think I’ll work on the scales next. I ordered a set of micarta scales. I also got a buffer from HF. Any suggestions on compound polish? Is white the color I see other YouTubers using? Also, to clean them up I see people cleaning the inside of the scales after roughing them up with some sandpaper to give the epoxy better adhesion. What do you use to clean them up, acetone I thought I read somewhere works ok, just hoping to confirm. What are your thoughts on using an angle grinder to shape/profile the blade? I seems like it would get hot pretty quick, would that hurt the integrity of the steel you think?
Thanks

 

[Randy3000]

I have the same exact set up. I wish I had gotten the top powder coated. It did start to rust in my basement. I spray painted it which is already chipping off.

I have had an issue with the gap between the band saw blade and the table. When I cut curves, I'll go perpendicular to the curve then cut small pieces off along the curve. These small pieces get jammed in there and the blade pops off. I just put some masking tape down on the table to make that gap smaller and it seems to be helping.

Agreed that blades are a huge issue. I've tried some Starrett's which were ok, and just got an Olsen from USA knifemaker.

Spray paint is cheap

 

[Cburr84]

Anyone with the HF Bandsaw have any trouble with replacing the blades? Also do anyone have the Swag 1.0 table (for the vise)?just got both in the mail and was wondering if there’s anything I need to watch out for.

 

[J. Keeton]

Anyone with the HF Bandsaw have any trouble with replacing the blades? Also do anyone have the Swag 1.0 table (for the vise)?just got both in the mail and was wondering if there’s anything I need to watch out for.

Hey C Cburr84 , changing the blades can be a little finicky at times. Once you do it a few times you'll get better at it. My advice would be to get the blade into the rollers first; then wrap it around the drive wheel and tension wheel next.

I don't have any experience with the SWAG 1.0 table.

And whatever you do... don't buy these blades: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9GHTZP/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

100% garbage

 

[Cburr84]

Hey C Cburr84 , changing the blades can be a little finicky at times. Once you do it a few times you'll get better at it. My advice would be to get the blade into the rollers first; then wrap it around the drive wheel and tension wheel next.

I don't have any experience with the SWAG 1.0 table.

And whatever you do... don't buy these blades: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9GHTZP/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

100% garbage

Rgr that. I bought the Lenox 14 tpi you refenerced me to. Off Topic: can I mix Canola Oil and Vegetable Oil for heat treating my 1080? I ran out of Canola and see that we do have some vegetable oil left over. I read they both are most similar, but wanted someone else’s opinion. I’m too far into the night to leave the kids and wife to go get more.
Thanks

 

[J. Keeton]

I'm not a heat treating pro, but a mix of canola oil and vegetable oil should work just fine for HTing 1080/1084. They both have around the same flash point. Make sure you heat the oil before quenching your blade to around 130 F. With 1084 you want a fast quenching oil like heated vegetable oil or parks 50. You can even use water, but a crack or warp is much more likely.