Barmaley's Aggregated Questions Thread

This microscope lends itself to focus stacking. It has this feature built-in, but I prefer to DIY using 3rd-party software.

Here's a relatively clean region of an edge, with just a few bits of burr, seen edge-on:

i-86cf3s3-XL.jpg


This region has much more burr:

i-V9wLhsz-XL.jpg
 
Fabric can have its downsides. Denim has a weave direction, and other fabrics have their own issues. The leather should be great.

Its important that you have faith in your tools but with VG10, we're not talking about something that's difficult to sharpen.

Don't drive yourself crazy with this... I'd save that energy for the diamond and CBN compounds.
 
Buy compound by type of abrasive and grit size, not by color. AlOx and Sic are great for older steels. CBN and diamond for more modern steels/
 
No, loose abrasive and a little water on a flat plate.
 
Do I need to get several abrasives or I one would be sufficient if it is diamond? Is it good for both soft and hard steels?
 
Hi Guys,

I am planning to make a fan project: it is a cabbage shredder board. I bought one and it was really cheap and knives were dull. Since I learnt the basics of sharpening I would like to make a shredder for sauerkraut Russian style. For that I need to shred a lot of cabbage. I would like to do something similar to:
For this project I would need 4 strips of steel to make blades. The requirements are: they have to be stainless, 12" long and from such a steel that can be sharpened for a razor sharpness. I have to be able to drill holes at the end of each. Do you have any suggestion on where can I get the proper bars of steel?
 
Several abrasives would mean you need several strops. I don't think that's necessary. Don't take it too serious, that kills the fun.
Diamond should work both for both soft and hard steels. Diamond is the hardest abrasive available.
 
Barmaley said:
what is loose abrasive? Sorry for my primitive questions:confused:
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Unbonded abrasive particles; think sand. Typically silicon carbide (SiC) which is available from rock tumbling hobby shops for a few dollars a pound, and you don't need a full pound of it. I recommend getting a grit "kit" that includes coarse, medium, fine, and polish (alumina rather than SiC), as these are useful at different times.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/lapping-stones-for-flatness.1586470/
 
Are you going to be hardening the metal yourself or do you need it in the hardened-and-tempered form? If you are going to drill hardened steel you'll need carbide bits I believe.
 
I need the hardened-and-tempered form of the blanks. The shape of the blades is most simple straight line so I am ready to take long time for sharpening from scratch of the blank form since I have not equipment for heat treatment.
 
B Barmaley I had a cabbage shredder for making sauerkraut and mine only had 2 blades so even if you go with 2 or 3 blades you should be fine,also I don't know if you have ever made sauerkraut before but if you haven't be sure to use pickling salt it's more coarse and for whatever reason it turns out much better when you use pickling salt.
 
Barmaley said:
what does it mean "dress"? Use BKF?
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Hi,
It means to scratch the surface , to refresh the surface, to resurface, to recondition (those are you search keywords) ...
it doesn't take long 20 seconds max as you're not flattening merely
making a worn/dulled/shiny shiny stone surface
not shiny again
 
I really like the Flitz paste...I used it for yrs to polish gun parts...and more recently to polish my finished blade edges.
 
Hey Wade,

I do sauerkraut about once a month! Do you know that you may do sauerkraut without salt at all. The fermentation goes even faster, however it will get too sour too soon.and I am tired of cleaning the mess I leave every time around of cabbage and carrot shavings - LOL.

That is why I want really sharp blades for a board which can drop all cuts in a bucket under it. The problem is to find the blades thus I could sharpen them razor sharp, and they have to be sturdy. I am sure that a self-made edge-pro (i did mine of two pieces of 2x4 boards and a foot square piece of oak step ;)) will do wonder for the blades provided that I could find the blanks.
 
I wonder if you can make high-speed-steel hacksaw blades work. The bi-metal blades won't work because only the tips of the teeth are hard. But these are 12" long, hardened, and they already have a hole in each end. If you keep them under tension, just like in a hacksaw, they should remain flat enough I think; that could take some design work.

61i%2BQCpwouL._AC_SL1200_.jpg
 
Barmaley said:
The requirements are: they have to be stainless, 12" long and from such a steel that can be sharpened for a razor sharpness. I have to be able to drill holes at the end of each. Do you have any suggestion on where can I get the proper bars of steel?
Click to expand...
Hi,

Do do doo

sharpest scissor made of "$1 kitchen knife" in the world - kiwami japan

OTOH, even the kitchen sink can be sharpened well enough :)
this is not a knife steel
(ex search for knife steel 434-x-20-x-1mm-skinner-420j2-stainless-steel-100box )
its a kitchen sink steel, cant be heat treated, wont shave, slices printer paper very well (also push cuts its)
Minimul Quick Test on 304 stainless - cKc knivesandstuff
 
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