Barmaley's Aggregated Questions Thread

If you find the stone clogs quickly when used dry or if used with just water, then it'd likely do better when used with oil.

Being it's a natural stone, there's no rule as to which should be used. But the key point is, it may work a lot better if used with something that keeps the stone from clogging. Sometimes water won't do that very well on a stone that doesn't shed much grit. In that case, using oil almost always helps it work better.

Other 'natural' stones that shed grit readily, like sandstone or siltstone, can work great with water. But otherwise, oil is probably the way to go.
 
Poor me :oops: !!!. I think I should restrain from asking to many questions: ignorance is bliss!!! I thought that I solved my stropping needs - vegetable tan instrument grade leather finally arrived today. But David ruined my day: now I need to undertake another research and look for the proper grade of denim and make sure that backing is firm:(. I am also expecting a M390 chef knife so I need a proper compound for it. For now I got a set of 5 pcs different color by Porter and Cable from Lowes model PCPCMX. Are they any good? Is there a simple source where make sure that I buy the right stuff? Hopefully, not too expensive? I already spent several hundred dollars on cutlery stuff, half of purchased stuff was junk.
 
I've been very pleased with my Dino-Lite, and with the service I get from their US distributor.

Be aware that even with a great microscope, getting good images of a burr is not easy. Lighting is critical; even tiny differences in direction can cause details to be hidden or to be revealed.

This image shows a region of an edge which has a little bit of burr, taken with top lighting only:

i-wJVv7W9-XL.jpg


Here's the same region, with additional light coming from the side:

i-gv2gp4K-XL.jpg


This image shows a region of an edge which has lots of burr, taken with top lighting only:

i-NtQqFF8-XL.jpg


Here's the same region, with additional light coming from the side:

i-FRqnhHx-XL.jpg
 
Thank you Blues, I will seriously consider Sharpmaker. Should its rods be 12-14" I would not hesitate a moment. Why do they need corners anyway?
 
Thank you Blues, I will seriously consider Sharpmaker. Should its rods be 12-14" I would not hesitate a moment. Why do they need corners anyway?

The corners are good for serrations...and also can be useful for faster steel removal on dull blades.

Anyway, it's up to you. I'm sure you'll end up making the right choice. Good luck.
 
Poor me :oops: !!!. I think I should restrain from asking to many questions: ignorance is bliss!!! I thought that I solved my stropping needs - vegetable tan instrument grade leather finally arrived today. But David ruined my day: now I need to undertake another research and look for the proper grade of denim and make sure that backing is firm:(. I am also expecting a M390 chef knife so I need a proper compound for it. For now I got a set of 5 pcs different color by Porter and Cable from Lowes model PCPCMX. Are they any good? Is there a simple source where make sure that I buy the right stuff? Hopefully, not too expensive? I already spent several hundred dollars on cutlery stuff, half of purchased stuff was junk.

For your more typical stainless, including the VG10, the 5-pc compound set from Lowe's could be useful. In particular, the grey and white (should both be AlOx) are usually pretty good when used on denim, as I mentioned before. I have similar stick compounds from Sears (black, grey, white & green) and Ryobi (black, white, yellow). The grey & white are my favorites for such uses, used on a paddle-type strop of denim-over-wood.

For the M390, you might at some point consider a diamond or cbn compound for best results. Having said that, on any of these steels, good finishing work on the stones or hones can be all they'll ever need. You don't necessarily need to strop any of them with compound to make them work great in the kitchen. Most of that is all about good geometry and a crisp apex, all of which can be accomplished on stones alone.
 
First I’ve heard of this practice. What is the benefit to having them soaking?
 
Those of you who store the stones in water: do you use something to keep mildew from growing?

I just change them all out every couple of weeks, including the working bath. Keeping them well covered really extends how long the water can go without getting funky.
 
First I’ve heard of this practice. What is the benefit to having them soaking?

They're ready to go when you are. No prep time needed for soaking before use.

Some stones, (splash and go), are not intended to be soaked...and some others are not to be left soaking, so it would depend on the individual stone.
 
What type of quartzite do you have? Is it like slate or harder than granite? If it's like slate then water, if it's harder than granite then oil may work but I would try water first.
 
I got that stone from a guy in a company which deals with granite. He told me that this stone is much harder than granite, it I recall correctly it is a form of quartz. It was many years ago before I got confined with self-isolation and started sharpening my knives to kill time. I looked in my tool drawer and pulled several stones. Two appears to be Arkansas stones medium and fine, two King stones one very big 1000 grit and one 1000/something (I guess 400?) since marking was off. Each was use a time or two the most. I also got that piece of quartzite which I do not put too much hope on it - it was a gift and not from a sharpener professional. The side which was cut feels like 600 grit, but I am far from been close to be able judge. Just want to give it a try and I am contemplating to use water or oil. If I start with water I may clog it, if I start with oil I may not get back to water :(
 
Thank you David,

I would like to try denim. Is there anything I need to know or I just cut my old jeans?
 
If you load it up you can dress it. If you ever use oil it stays oil.
 
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