Baryonyx Manticore + Arctic fox

RayseM said:
HeavyHanded HeavyHanded - did you make your stone pond - seems to work real well (no pun intended ;)) :thumbsup:
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It started life as one of those step stool toolboxes. I found a rubbermade storage bin that fits inside, that holds all the water. Two rods prop up a two piece stone holder. This is the best way to keep the water from escaping the bath when rinsing, absolutely no mess and easy to change the bath out. Reasonably portable too.
 
Eli Chaps said:
Thanks for the video. The Arctic Fox is a stone I've ogled many times as a potential replacement for my beloved soft Arkansas stones for the kitchen. I don't really do water though so have yet to pull the trigger.

I'm not really setup for water (no utility sink, garage, etc.) but it seems to be something I'm increasingly drawn to...
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You could start with just a board that fits across your kitchen sink with a rag draped over it.
 
Eli Chaps said:
I'm not really setup for water (no utility sink, garage, etc.) but it seems to be something I'm increasingly drawn to...
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My situation is that I too, don't have a utility sink. I have a shop but no running water - a HUGE deficiency. Some great water stones collected over the years including some from FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades , but a real nuisance to set up for water. Every sharpening becomes an event. :( That's why I asked about the stone pond. High time to make one and eliminate the fuss. :thumbsup:
 
RayseM said:
My situation is that I too, don't have a utility sink. I have a shop but no running water - a HUGE deficiency. Some great water stones collected over the years including some from FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades , but a real nuisance to set up for water. Every sharpening becomes an event. :( That's why I asked about the stone pond. High time to make one and eliminate the fuss. :thumbsup:
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This is the box I used, but most any of them will work

http://imgur.com/a/iUo8i1M.jpg

Find a tote that fits inside and lay a board across. Notch the underside of the board to fit the edges of the opening so it doesn't slide around.
Or just use the toolbox. With the lid closed you can carry it to and from nearest hose or sink with hardly any lost water. And with the lid down I don't have to worry about the cat drinking out of it (she's a great mouser but not too bright).
 
Thanks for posting this video as well. I have yet to pull the trigger on the AF, as I have too many stones already! Is there such a thing as too many stones? The Manticore is a beast of a stone, for sure. 60 grit SiC and it chews through anything. I have only used it a handful of times thus far, and the one side I do use is noticeably smoother than the back (unused) side. But it still cuts extremely well, especially with pressure. I don't recommend apexing with such a coarse grit stone, but for material removal....it works very well. Harder binder than a Crystolon, it seems. Crystolon is softer, breaks down more readily. I recommend the buyer of the Manticore to find some 60 or 120 grit SiC powder, because eventually the stone will need to be reconditioned.

I love the Manticore, and the ruby Bull Thistle. My eye is on the Ptarmigan (1200 grit!) and the SiC 4x4 ultra hard plate.
 
samuraistuart said:
Thanks for posting this video as well. I have yet to pull the trigger on the AF, as I have too many stones already! Is there such a thing as too many stones? The Manticore is a beast of a stone, for sure. 60 grit SiC and it chews through anything. I have only used it a handful of times thus far, and the one side I do use is noticeably smoother than the back (unused) side. But it still cuts extremely well, especially with pressure. I don't recommend apexing with such a coarse grit stone, but for material removal....it works very well. Harder binder than a Crystolon, it seems. Crystolon is softer, breaks down more readily. I recommend the buyer of the Manticore to find some 60 or 120 grit SiC powder, because eventually the stone will need to be reconditioned.

I love the Manticore, and the ruby Bull Thistle. My eye is on the Ptarmigan (1200 grit!) and the SiC 4x4 ultra hard plate.
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Don't sleep on the American Mutt! It truly is a "one-stone" solution for a working edge. Can't beat the price either!
 
63E473F1-2D2E-4217-BD60-7430AF550231.jpeg The American Mutt is probably my most used out of all the Baryonyx stones.
When I combine that with the Manticore I can easily upkeep all my yard tools.
 
samuraistuart said:
Thanks for posting this video as well. I have yet to pull the trigger on the AF, as I have too many stones already! Is there such a thing as too many stones? The Manticore is a beast of a stone, for sure. 60 grit SiC and it chews through anything. I have only used it a handful of times thus far, and the one side I do use is noticeably smoother than the back (unused) side. But it still cuts extremely well, especially with pressure. I don't recommend apexing with such a coarse grit stone, but for material removal....it works very well. Harder binder than a Crystolon, it seems. Crystolon is softer, breaks down more readily. I recommend the buyer of the Manticore to find some 60 or 120 grit SiC powder, because eventually the stone will need to be reconditioned.

I love the Manticore, and the ruby Bull Thistle. My eye is on the Ptarmigan (1200 grit!) and the SiC 4x4 ultra hard plate.
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If using moderate pressure or heavier you shouldn't need to recondition the stone unless you're using wide bevels that spread out the contact surface significantly. I do have plans for a coarse stone on the softer side for doing things like flattening chisels and the like, but with conventional bevels and grinding out edge damage the Manticore should be shedding grit at a moderate rate. The green silicon carbide should be fracturing under pressure both to expose fresh cutting surface and to increase the grit protrusion of the black silicon carbide, increasing pressure on it, in turn, and aiding in both cutting speed and grit shedding. Typically the Manticore gets coarser as you use it, and comes from the molds a bit slick because of how large the abrasive grains are--they end up aligning themselves flat with the mold face during pressing, and you have to use the stone for a bit or scuff it with a pointed object like a nail just to loosen that outermost layer so it can get to its natural ultra-coarse grit texture. The only time I've had to recondition my personal Manticore was when I used it to abrade some siliceous siltstone and the broad contact surface of that resulted in some minor glazing, but when used on knives I've not yet run into any such a dynamic. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Certain proportional relationships do need to be maintained. I could try to have them produced that thin, but it's possible there could be warpage during firing, so it's something only testing will bear out.
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What would it add to the price to have stones sliced with a diamond saw?
 
Mr.Wizard said:
What would it add to the price to have stones sliced with a diamond saw?
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That's not something I can answer off-hand. It's something that I'll find out in the future, but one way or the other it'll take some figuring. I have my hands completely full for the present, but I'll look into it.
 
FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades I heard you when you said your hands were full, but you might care to know that Sharpening Supplies now has a 12"×3"×¾” 80 grit water stone they call "The Grinder Stone."
 
Mr.Wizard said:
FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades I heard you when you said your hands were full, but you might care to know that Sharpening Supplies now has a 12"×3"×¾” 80 grit water stone they call "The Grinder Stone."
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Yup! They've had that a while now. In that width I'd probably want a softer bond, though, because of how likely you'd be to have your contact surface increased, lowering your pressure for a given degree of exertion. Wider isn't always better, especially at the coarse stage. In the Manticore blend I'd be more likely to make a larger stone proportionally longer rather than wider. :)
 
Basically the bigger the contact surface, the more the pressure is going to be spread out, so you have to adjust the bond strength to match the anticipated pressure level. If you were flattening chisel backs, for instance, you'd want a softer bond strength to help it keep releasing grit under the resulting diffuse pressure. It's for this reason that the Norton coarse waterstone is so soft, but when people use it on edge bevels it's then too soft and wears quickly under the increased pressure.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Yup! They've had that a while now. In that width I'd probably want a softer bond, though, because of how likely you'd be to have your contact surface increased, lowering your pressure for a given degree of exertion. Wider isn't always better, especially at the coarse stage. In the Manticore blend I'd be more likely to make a larger stone proportionally longer rather than wider. :)
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Any progress on a longer Manticore?
 
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