- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 518
Since I started hanging around the BK&T forum a few weeks back, Ive noticed a lot of new guys (including myself) asking the same questions over and again about etching, stripping, and other basic mods. So I thought I might compile my favorite threads on these topics in one place for easy reference.
First of all, Im not a teacher here, just a student. What follows is a step-by-step of the etching, stripping, and forcing patina (with a couple of extras tossed in along the way) process BASED ENTIRELY on info I found on BF.
Hopefully, this will be helpful to other modding newbies. And I hope veteran members can add links to other techniques since my experience is limited.
In addition to referencing threads, Im including pics and notes from the modding I did this past weekend on my BK15 by following these threads. I went with food safe options since this one will see the most action in the kitchen. This was my first Becker and my first attempt at modding. The only other modding Ive done in my life was to a t-shirt and involved removal of the sleeves (fyi, I couldnt pull off that look).
THE KNIFE:
The BK15 isnt actually the first Becker I ordered, but it is the first to arrive. I ordered it specifically to mod. Once in my hand, I suddenly get why the Beckers have such a loyal following. It feels solid and quality. I feel really guilty that Im going to risk that quality by futzing with it.
Okay. Ive had it for a couple of hours. Now lets take it apart.
ETCHING:
Here are the relevant threads written by people more knowledgeable than myself:
1. A general thread on Becker etching:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1303830-Becker-lazer-etching
2. granitestateofmind walks you through making a DIY electro-etcher:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...r-and-using-electrochemical-etching-on-a-BK12
3. A discussion of PCB (acid) etching vs. electro-etching:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1306049-PCB-vs-Electro-etching?highlight=pcb
granitestateofminds thread is a wealth of info, but Im not up to building my own device. Instead, I find a video on the first thread about using a 9-volt battery (posted by TravisH about half-way down the first page) that I follow.
A touch of stripper so I can get better contact with the steel beneath:
My set-up. I recommend connecting the wires to the battery.
Its a little hard to tell when youve etched deep enough until youve gone through the process. I did 4 q-tips (8 ends total) until they were black and gross. Ended up plenty deep.
You can see the variation in the color of the etched steel from my DC-only approach. I could probably darken this with AC current, but Im okay with it like it is. (As it turns out, this will be a moot point anyhow once I add the patina.)
STRIPPING:
Relevant threads:
1. General discussion on paint strippers:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1294132-Becker-Strippers?highlight=stripper
2. General discussion with a focus on food safe stripping:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1304361-How-to-Strip-for-Food?highlight=stripper
Ill summarize these. The popular safe and easy stripper is Citristrip. Its citrus-based, food-safe, and the fumes arent too bad. If you want something more aggressive, Jasco is a popular one. Or if youre a masochist, you can sand off the coating.
I took the Citristrip route. But for extra credit, I decided to try and keep the coating around the handles (with a little buffer room). I didnt know how strong the Citristrip would be or what kind of tape it might eat through, but I had heard foil tape was used when stripping paint from airplanes. So I picked up the cheapest roll I could find
Gave it a little shape with an Exacto-knife
And slapped on the Citristrip.
I make a point to get the stripper all the way up to the handles to see (A) will the tape hold and (B) will the Citristrip cause any damage to the handles (a question that came up a time or two).
I leave the Citristrip on for about 3 hours, then scrape it off with a plastic putty knife.
After that, I clean around the jimping and other details with a paperclip and folder.
The foil tape protects the coating beneath just fine. And the handles show zero damage.
Im no Channing Tatum, but I now know how to strip.
SANDING:
I have two different plans for sanding. One, to smooth down the coating Ive left around the handle (for no reason other than to experiment). And two, to remove the patina added by the Citristrip so I can add a different one.
Okay, so using 1000 grit paper, I start sanding the coating on the butt of the knife. After about 4 seconds, I see bare steel at the corners. Uh-oh. So this experiment has failed. The spots of bare steel are miniscule, though. Too small to actual be visible in a pic (so no pic provided). No worries, Ill patina those and no one will ever know theyre there but me.
The Citristrip patina is just fine. I could totally be done if I didnt want to keep playing. It looks like this:
Sanding the citrus patina off goes easier than expected. About 5-10 minutes with the 1000 grit on each side and Ive got nice clean steel. Not high-polished or anything. But good enough for me to move on.
PATINA:
These threads arent Becker-specific but relevant.
1. Forced vs. natural patina:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ced-patina-vs-natural?highlight=forced+patina
2. Pic thread of natural patinas:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...res-of-earned-patinas?highlight=forced+patina
3. Vinegar (and mustard) patina:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ple-cider-vinegar-patina-ing?highlight=patina
4. Dark patina on 1095 carbon steel:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...A-Deep-Even-Black-Patina-On-1095-Carbon-Steel
Man, I couldnt help it. Once I saw those dark patinas in that fourth thread, I knew I had to try it.
The ingredients for the dark patina called for a cleaner such as rubbing alcohol. But I could have sworn it said Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon alcohol. Only after I purchased the bottle did I realize my mistake. Ill just have to find another use for the Four Roses.
After a couple of rounds of following all the steps, Ive got a decent but somewhat blotchy patina.
After four or five rounds total, were getting nice and dark. I stop using the silver polish because things are looking pretty even now.
With each pass, its getting darker, more even and consistent, and I find myself admiring the knife more and more. So I just keep working.
If youve ever had a fast food job, you may remember that golden fries dont come out of new grease. You need the grease to cook and burn a bit before it can add color. I think theres something to that here. As the vinegar burns and darkens in the pot, it seems to have more effect. So I keep working until Ive burned off, spilled, or applied all 32 ounces of apple cider vinegar in the bottle. I lost count, but its more than ten rounds and fewer than fifteen. Id guess twelve.
My place reeks afterwards. Not just of vinegar, but of BURNT vinegar. If my fiancé were in town, Id be dead meat.
What I end up with is a dark slate gray blade. It is BEAUTIFUL.
There are a couple areas where the patina was slower in darkening and a few tiny flecks that just dont seem to take color at all.
But this patina is going to change over time anyhow. If I ever want to try to get it 100% black, I can always buy some more vinegar and keep going. I dont need to do that though, because you dont need to change the ones that you love. And I firmly love this knife now.
FINISHING UP:
The last things I do are add black stainless hardware from Coyle Outdoors (which was included with purchase of the knife) and an adjustable, non-snag lanyard for when I go camping. Details on the lanyard can be found here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/395370-Non-snagging-lanyard-loop-tutorial
Im not a fan of lanyards in general, but this one seems good for getting a firm grip with only a couple of fingers when chopping.
A few strokes across my kitchen steel and the edge is awesome.
OTHER MODS / PROFESSIONAL MODS:
This list is a long ways from complete. Ive said nothing about grinding blade shape, convexing/reprofiling edges, coating/tubing/dremeling scales, or probably any number of other mods. Hopefully, folks with better knowledge or who have researched more can add links to those techniques to this thread.
And finally (this is for you others new to modding), while DIY is fun, theres something to be said for experienced work by pros with proper equipment. For example, there are home parkerizing kits you can order, and you might even get good results. But, personally, I wouldnt know a good park job from a bad one. So I feel better having that kind of work done by someone who knows the difference.
I mentioned at the beginning of this thread that the BK15 wasnt the first Becker I ordered. The first I ordered was a BK16, currently being modded by Dexwithers at Coyle Outdoors with a number of mods I wouldnt be comfortable doing myself (including getting parked). Ill add a pic of the modded 16 as soon as it arrives.
I hope this thread can serve as a general guide for other new fans to the BK&T brand. Please feel free to add any links to existing threads with other modding techniques. From everything Ive seen and heard, this is a great brand headed by a caring man who encourages buyers to make their knives their own.
Happy modding!
First of all, Im not a teacher here, just a student. What follows is a step-by-step of the etching, stripping, and forcing patina (with a couple of extras tossed in along the way) process BASED ENTIRELY on info I found on BF.
Hopefully, this will be helpful to other modding newbies. And I hope veteran members can add links to other techniques since my experience is limited.
In addition to referencing threads, Im including pics and notes from the modding I did this past weekend on my BK15 by following these threads. I went with food safe options since this one will see the most action in the kitchen. This was my first Becker and my first attempt at modding. The only other modding Ive done in my life was to a t-shirt and involved removal of the sleeves (fyi, I couldnt pull off that look).
THE KNIFE:
The BK15 isnt actually the first Becker I ordered, but it is the first to arrive. I ordered it specifically to mod. Once in my hand, I suddenly get why the Beckers have such a loyal following. It feels solid and quality. I feel really guilty that Im going to risk that quality by futzing with it.
Okay. Ive had it for a couple of hours. Now lets take it apart.
ETCHING:
Here are the relevant threads written by people more knowledgeable than myself:
1. A general thread on Becker etching:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1303830-Becker-lazer-etching
2. granitestateofmind walks you through making a DIY electro-etcher:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...r-and-using-electrochemical-etching-on-a-BK12
3. A discussion of PCB (acid) etching vs. electro-etching:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1306049-PCB-vs-Electro-etching?highlight=pcb
granitestateofminds thread is a wealth of info, but Im not up to building my own device. Instead, I find a video on the first thread about using a 9-volt battery (posted by TravisH about half-way down the first page) that I follow.
A touch of stripper so I can get better contact with the steel beneath:
My set-up. I recommend connecting the wires to the battery.
Its a little hard to tell when youve etched deep enough until youve gone through the process. I did 4 q-tips (8 ends total) until they were black and gross. Ended up plenty deep.
You can see the variation in the color of the etched steel from my DC-only approach. I could probably darken this with AC current, but Im okay with it like it is. (As it turns out, this will be a moot point anyhow once I add the patina.)
STRIPPING:
Relevant threads:
1. General discussion on paint strippers:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1294132-Becker-Strippers?highlight=stripper
2. General discussion with a focus on food safe stripping:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1304361-How-to-Strip-for-Food?highlight=stripper
Ill summarize these. The popular safe and easy stripper is Citristrip. Its citrus-based, food-safe, and the fumes arent too bad. If you want something more aggressive, Jasco is a popular one. Or if youre a masochist, you can sand off the coating.
I took the Citristrip route. But for extra credit, I decided to try and keep the coating around the handles (with a little buffer room). I didnt know how strong the Citristrip would be or what kind of tape it might eat through, but I had heard foil tape was used when stripping paint from airplanes. So I picked up the cheapest roll I could find
Gave it a little shape with an Exacto-knife
And slapped on the Citristrip.
I make a point to get the stripper all the way up to the handles to see (A) will the tape hold and (B) will the Citristrip cause any damage to the handles (a question that came up a time or two).
I leave the Citristrip on for about 3 hours, then scrape it off with a plastic putty knife.
After that, I clean around the jimping and other details with a paperclip and folder.
The foil tape protects the coating beneath just fine. And the handles show zero damage.
Im no Channing Tatum, but I now know how to strip.
SANDING:
I have two different plans for sanding. One, to smooth down the coating Ive left around the handle (for no reason other than to experiment). And two, to remove the patina added by the Citristrip so I can add a different one.
Okay, so using 1000 grit paper, I start sanding the coating on the butt of the knife. After about 4 seconds, I see bare steel at the corners. Uh-oh. So this experiment has failed. The spots of bare steel are miniscule, though. Too small to actual be visible in a pic (so no pic provided). No worries, Ill patina those and no one will ever know theyre there but me.
The Citristrip patina is just fine. I could totally be done if I didnt want to keep playing. It looks like this:
Sanding the citrus patina off goes easier than expected. About 5-10 minutes with the 1000 grit on each side and Ive got nice clean steel. Not high-polished or anything. But good enough for me to move on.
PATINA:
These threads arent Becker-specific but relevant.
1. Forced vs. natural patina:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ced-patina-vs-natural?highlight=forced+patina
2. Pic thread of natural patinas:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...res-of-earned-patinas?highlight=forced+patina
3. Vinegar (and mustard) patina:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ple-cider-vinegar-patina-ing?highlight=patina
4. Dark patina on 1095 carbon steel:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...A-Deep-Even-Black-Patina-On-1095-Carbon-Steel
Man, I couldnt help it. Once I saw those dark patinas in that fourth thread, I knew I had to try it.
The ingredients for the dark patina called for a cleaner such as rubbing alcohol. But I could have sworn it said Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon alcohol. Only after I purchased the bottle did I realize my mistake. Ill just have to find another use for the Four Roses.
After a couple of rounds of following all the steps, Ive got a decent but somewhat blotchy patina.
After four or five rounds total, were getting nice and dark. I stop using the silver polish because things are looking pretty even now.
With each pass, its getting darker, more even and consistent, and I find myself admiring the knife more and more. So I just keep working.
If youve ever had a fast food job, you may remember that golden fries dont come out of new grease. You need the grease to cook and burn a bit before it can add color. I think theres something to that here. As the vinegar burns and darkens in the pot, it seems to have more effect. So I keep working until Ive burned off, spilled, or applied all 32 ounces of apple cider vinegar in the bottle. I lost count, but its more than ten rounds and fewer than fifteen. Id guess twelve.
My place reeks afterwards. Not just of vinegar, but of BURNT vinegar. If my fiancé were in town, Id be dead meat.
What I end up with is a dark slate gray blade. It is BEAUTIFUL.
There are a couple areas where the patina was slower in darkening and a few tiny flecks that just dont seem to take color at all.
But this patina is going to change over time anyhow. If I ever want to try to get it 100% black, I can always buy some more vinegar and keep going. I dont need to do that though, because you dont need to change the ones that you love. And I firmly love this knife now.
FINISHING UP:
The last things I do are add black stainless hardware from Coyle Outdoors (which was included with purchase of the knife) and an adjustable, non-snag lanyard for when I go camping. Details on the lanyard can be found here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/395370-Non-snagging-lanyard-loop-tutorial
Im not a fan of lanyards in general, but this one seems good for getting a firm grip with only a couple of fingers when chopping.
A few strokes across my kitchen steel and the edge is awesome.
OTHER MODS / PROFESSIONAL MODS:
This list is a long ways from complete. Ive said nothing about grinding blade shape, convexing/reprofiling edges, coating/tubing/dremeling scales, or probably any number of other mods. Hopefully, folks with better knowledge or who have researched more can add links to those techniques to this thread.
And finally (this is for you others new to modding), while DIY is fun, theres something to be said for experienced work by pros with proper equipment. For example, there are home parkerizing kits you can order, and you might even get good results. But, personally, I wouldnt know a good park job from a bad one. So I feel better having that kind of work done by someone who knows the difference.
I mentioned at the beginning of this thread that the BK15 wasnt the first Becker I ordered. The first I ordered was a BK16, currently being modded by Dexwithers at Coyle Outdoors with a number of mods I wouldnt be comfortable doing myself (including getting parked). Ill add a pic of the modded 16 as soon as it arrives.
I hope this thread can serve as a general guide for other new fans to the BK&T brand. Please feel free to add any links to existing threads with other modding techniques. From everything Ive seen and heard, this is a great brand headed by a caring man who encourages buyers to make their knives their own.
Happy modding!
