Basic Becker Modding 101

TravisH said:
Excellent post with excellent results! Well done! :thumbup:


East Texas?! I've got relatives in-n-around Tyler. ;)
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Thanks!

I was a fair distance further south. Closer to the dividing line that separates East Texas from Southeast Texas. And all of about 10 miles from Louisiana. Half rednecks and half cajuns, we developed the most backwoods accent in the world. When I moved to Waco, I was told repeatedly, "Man, you are COUNTRY."

Now I live in Los Angeles.
 
I love that you took the paint off, but left the coating under the handles. I forget where I read it, but does changing the hardware in the handle cause problems? It was something about the different kind of metal causing the reaction that is trying to be prevented.
 
Fuori said:
I love that you took the paint off, but left the coating under the handles. I forget where I read it, but does changing the hardware in the handle cause problems? It was something about the different kind of metal causing the reaction that is trying to be prevented.
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Usually, it's the bolts that rust, not the handle. Switching to stainless is popular.

Dissimilar metals usually react to each other causing corrosion. That's why electrical/electronic connection points are plated with nonreactive metals like gold and silver.
 
TravisH said:
Usually, it's the bolts that rust, not the handle. Switching to stainless is popular.

Dissimilar metals usually react to each other causing corrosion. That's why electrical/electronic connection points are plated with nonreactive metals like gold and silver.
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So are you saying that such is an issue here? Or are the stainless bolts a good choice to avoid corrosion?
 
JWheel said:
So are you saying that such is an issue here? Or are the stainless bolts a good choice to avoid corrosion?
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Yes and Yes.

The standard nuts-n-bolts aren't 'coated' and will rust over time without occassional maintenance, even on 'Safe Queens'. But that's a 'rust' thing, not 'dissimilar metals' thing.

Just wipe down the hardware with a bit of oil whenever you wipe down the blade and it'll be fine.

Stainless is another way to avoid this. That's what also sets Dex @ Coyleoutdoors apart - he includes a set of stainless hardware with each purchase. ;)
 
Murphnuge said:
A helluva contribution, hope you stick around.
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Thanks! I hope to.

TravisH said:
Stainless is another way to avoid this. That's what also sets Dex @ Coyleoutdoors apart - he includes a set of stainless hardware with each purchase. ;)
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Yup, that's where this 15 and its stainless hardware came from.

And speaking of Dex, has anyone heard from him? He had a shipment he was supposed to send my way. Instead, he went to radio silence a couple weeks back. Disappeared from the forum too. Hope everything's okay.
 
So, if dissimilar metals can cause corrosion won't switching the bolts to stainless do just that on 1095? Could I force a patina on the factory bolts instead?
 
JWheel said:
Thanks! I hope to.



Yup, that's where this 15 and its stainless hardware came from.

And speaking of Dex, has anyone heard from him? He had a shipment he was supposed to send my way. Instead, he went to radio silence a couple weeks back. Disappeared from the forum too. Hope everything's okay.
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He's around, I just sent him a text.
 
Fuori said:
So, if dissimilar metals can cause corrosion won't switching the bolts to stainless do just that on 1095? Could I force a patina on the factory bolts instead?
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Unless the factory hardware is also 1095CV, there is a potential for trouble.

Galvanic Corrosion is a complicated process. Without going overboard, stainless steel is generally less reactive than carbon steel. Hence the word 'stainless'. ; )

Anything that separates the metals from direct contact (coating, patina, oil, etc) is good.

Again, with occassional maintenance it's not an issue.

But, as Ethan has oft said - meh, what's a little rust?
 
I saw this
patina added by the Citristrip
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and thought id comment.

That coloration on the blade I dont think patina added by the Citristrip. It is heat treat coloring you see on the blade

I used high strength regular striper, non citris. And see the same colorations all the beckers ive striped and the blade looks like heat treat colored

Ive used this same striper and also aircraft striper on all kinds of stuff and it doesnt do anything to the metal.
 
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TravisH said:
Unless the factory hardware is also 1095CV, there is a potential for trouble.

Galvanic Corrosion is a complicated process. Without going overboard, stainless steel is generally less reactive than carbon steel. Hence the word 'stainless'. ; )

Anything that separates the metals from direct contact (coating, patina, oil, etc) is good.

Again, with occassional maintenance it's not an issue.

But, as Ethan has oft said - meh, what's a little rust?
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Thank you. That's why I've been holding off on stainless hardware, but wanted to make sure.
 
JDMiller said:
I saw this and thought id comment.

That coloration on the blade I dont think patina added by the Citristrip. It is heat treat coloring you see on the blade

I used high strength regular striper, non citris. And see the same colorations all the beckers ive striped and the blade looks like heat treat colored

Ive used this same striper and also aircraft striper on all kinds of stuff and it doesnt do anything to the metal.
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Interesting. My knowledge on that subject is based wholly on comments from other members on the forum, so I absolutely do not know about these things.

But I will mention that when I first stripped the blade, I don't believe that coloration was there. It appeared after 10-15 minutes. All the same, I think it's best to remove any trace of toxicity through cleaning and sanding, then add a food-induced patina (especially on a blade that will be used for such).
 
Fuori said:
Thank you. That's why I've been holding off on stainless hardware, but wanted to make sure.
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Regarding TravisH's comments, I'm still totally confused. TravisH, please make this easy for everyone. Is rust/corrosion more likely to occur on a Becker if it has its original 1095 hardware or if you replace that with stainless hardware?
 
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