Batoning versus not batoning

When I built my grinder I used a 10" contact wheel for the drive wheel becuase I thought it would be better for hollow grinding then an 8" wheel.......... so far I have hollow ground only one knife and after using it will probably nver do another one. I like the flat grind for small knives and convex for choppers and such.

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Bruce
 
Same here Bruce. I have a 10" contact wheel. I've done 2 hollow grind knives and have never done another. I prefer the grind I do now flat/convex combo.
Scott
 
Bruce Culberson said:
When I built my grinder I used a 10" contact wheel for the drive wheel becuase I thought it would be better for hollow grinding then an 8" wheel.......... so far I have hollow ground only one knife and after using it will probably nver do another one. I like the flat grind for small knives and convex for choppers and such.

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Bruce
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That's awesome !:thumbup:
 
Man, bruce, that grinder is hella neato. Loving the big knife pics in this thread. Christoph, can you show a picture of the face of that knife buried in the cowbone? Looks neato to me.
 
Not sure which ones you mean. These are Rotte's pictures, but I can explain a little bit.

He cross batoned the bone, too:

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The knife blade AFTER doing the cottonwood logs and cow bone. it's a cold blued blade, so most of what you see is worn bluing combined with gelatin and marrow on the blade. Trace the line of the edge and you'll see it's still smooth:

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Rotte put a thread up: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/871894-Warthog-abuse-(aka-batonning-the-LBK)

I have to say I'm 110% with gossman on convex. I do tend to use them (though mostly in scandivex form) where Bruce and Scott use flat grinds. I've never even wanted to try a hollow grind. I got the 10 inch contact wheel on my coote for profiling :)
 
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Bruce- I love the grinder, too. I've got to make some more to up production, and have been debating the NWG and more Coote purchases. Yours is inspiring, I may work on one like that!
 
Great job with that knife Christof. Hey Bruce, what's that drive belt? Looks like you braided paracord. :D
Scott
 
I only heard of batoning from this forum
Till recently I have only used an axe to split

I cut my wood with an axe then split with an axe
Following all these threads I decided to try batoning

I only have two full tang knives
And even if folk say I could use a Mora with a longer stick tang, I feel it will stress the knife and break it

So, I have an old Sabiter Meat Cleaver that I have had for 40 years
I convexed it, simply as I was too lazy to reprofile the very obtuse grind for meat and bones
The blade is very thin and very deep

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A great cross between a hatchet, chopper and machete!!!

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It batoned well, but I find for the effort, chopping with a simple axe would split faster with less effort

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My only other other full tang is a Queen Premium Hunter in D2 with a 3 1/2" blade
I batoned with it and it excelled in spliting 2" to 2 1/2" wood.
Quite out did the axe

So batoning for small wood is much faster and easier.
I am full converted!!!
 
Yea, I like that blade shape Christopf.

I prefer convex for all tasks.

I think the hollow grind has no place anywhere but a display stand.
 
Hey Bruce, what's that drive belt? Looks like you braided paracord.
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Thanks Scott, that's funny.


Back to the OP - yes I expect a knife to be able to baton wood......although I wouldn't want to split all my wood for heating the house for the winter using a knife! Batoning for campfires - yes.
 
The Becker BK2 really splits wood with ease. I suppose I could convex it, but it works well as is.

Here's a couple of BK2 shots:
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Batonning isn't the only way a knife can be used to split wood. Here I swung both the knife and wood together down to impact on the chopping surface.:thumbup:
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Most of the time I use an little hatchet, and I will actualy baton the hatchet.

However I do like to baton with a knife some of the times just to know I can do it and my knife can stand up to it. When out camping I would say 70% of the wood I split is done with the hatchet the rest I baton with a knife or several knives. I also use a knife to split wood if I want to carve a spoon or smething like that.

For a knife I find a thicker convexed blade batons best becuase it acts more like a wedge

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If the wood is wet batoning is a quick way to get to the inner drier sections. In my opinion if one is afraid of breaking their knife then it must not be a very good one to begin with. The top two pictures are of a Jason B. Stout Model 2 Tactical made from D2 and hollow ground. The bottom two pictures are of a Benchmade Bone Collector made from D2 and flat ground.

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On batoning, yea, it's a primary technique for me.

Since i backpack/hike alot, i loathe carrying too much stuff (weight as well as cumbersome to carry). When i'm really wanting to make a fire, my Trail Master is what i reach for... It's not a Custom or anything special, but it batons like crazy! I like the thickness (5/16") and the 'grind' (i guess...), but i've never noticed an advantage of one grind over another for batoning (i've not really committed to evaluting either.....).

I have a firesteel, etc and have used 'em for decades so can either use that kit or simply put a small Bic to use - all the same to me, but batoning is definitely gonna happen.

I also like having a small garden saw to use - they don't weigh much or take up much space. It doesn't have to be some fancy schmancy super-steeled wood-shark - just a sharp saw that folds up conveniently and cuts well. It's a nice compliment to my knife and really helps processing larger wood.

With my knife and saw combo, i'm assured a nice fire and greater sense of safety (than if using an axe...).
 
Stitch said:
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Stictch's picture above pretty much represents the type and size of wood that I often use batoning for. Often, I cut pieces just like this of wrist size or so with a saw (cross batoning this size is a pain). Cut about 20 pieces like this, if they are nicely dried, they last a nights (3 season) fire. I will split a couple of them to make tinder and kindling and once the coals are established I just burn the rest of the rounds whole. The standard belt knife works perfect for stuff like this and as far as I'm concerned is the right tool for this type of job. This is also a great size of wood to shape a bowdrill kit from.
 
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