Again, batoning is all about proper wood selection (size, density, knots etc.) and proper technique (keep the knife straight, don't try cutting large pieces down the middle-work around the log, etc.). If these steps are followed, all should go well.

If not,

.
The problem is, if your knife is really slicy, and thus capable of versatile tasks, which for me begins at 15-17 degrees per side at the most, there
is no proper batoning technique...: The edge will micro-roll no matter how thin the piece is, and how straight you strike it. Maybe a fat convex edge will mitigate this, but that is like starting with a dulled knife to begin with...
What naturally keeps the forces symmetrical to the apex, in a harder material like wood, is
velocity: The initial entry into the wood "pinches" the apex, and preserves the straightness of the most fragile part on impact. Even with velocity, a micro-roll will eventually occur over time, but it will be so thin that it will wear away with further use.
With batoning the roll is bigger, more durable and more consistent, which still cuts, but is no longer parallel to you cutting motion. This increases the cutting effort considerably,
even if the edge still shaves cleanly.
If it still cuts, what is the problem with batoning?
The problem is a taller rolled edge portion will be more likely to fail or chip under further hard use. It will also require far more metal removal, wearing the knife faster into a thicker edge section, which will then be harder to keep sharp with touch ups in the field.
You can't avoid very limited batoning in some small tasks: It is a legitimate technique, but like using your knife to dig into soil, or hammering it into a tree to climb on it(!), it is something you generally want to minimize or avoid.
Yeah, you have to be careful with hatchets and axes. I cut into my foot once with a glancing blow from a tree. I didn't think there was a problem until my tennis shoe started to leak blood. (Yep, wrong footwear for chopping.

) One of the contestants on Alone had to call it quits after an axe injury. The axe is a great chopping tool, but you have to be careful.
I do think batoning with a knife is probably safer overall .
As is
chopping with a knife? And chopping goes cross-grain, which, while less efficient than a folding saw, is much more versatile and opens far broader uses with a large knife (de-limbing/path clearing ect...)
I really can't believe the huge disproportionate emphasis on wood splitting, when most of the work will be cross-grain. In fact, the more precarious the situation, the more likely most of the work will be oriented cross-grain. A small knife (under 8-9") simply cannot be a serious cross-grain tool. Yet batoning a knife is here opposed to an axe, which is mostly a cross-grain tool, while batoning is mostly a splitting technique: This is like saying a boat is a substitute for a car...
Sure you can baton cross-grain: I've seen a video of some expert doing just that, and it was pretty comical: He explained he had trouble turning the small tree around because the small tree
still had its branches: Well yeah, his tiny knife was too incapable of de-limbing to be worth the trouble, yet he was intent on demonstrating batoning
all around the trunk to easily break it...
The prejudice against big knives, and
especially against chopping with them, is pretty much without bounds these days... I've even heard the notion seriously proposed that a big knife like the GSO-10 was
not primarily designed for chopping (to explain some questionable design choices, particularly the thin handle),
but for batoning larger logs... There is literally no end to this batoning mania...
Gaston