Beaudry #7 (200 lb.) Hammer

RMLamey

RMLamey

Joined
Nov 13, 1998
Messages
2,598
Well ive been jockying power hammers around for the past 10 years or so. In this time ive always had my eye open and ear to the ground for a Beaudry. Was really looking for one in the 100-150 lb. range, but when I got a phone call offering me the below #7 (200 lb), it didnt take a long time to decide that I wanted to buy (well I knew I wanted it immediately, affording it has been a different story).

I had put several "want ads" out over the years, and this hammer is a result of one of those ads. The previous owner, who is an extremely nice guy, called me a few months ago telling me about this hammer. At the time I had just purchased most of another shop (2 hammers, 2 forged, tooling etc.), so needless to say funds were a bit tight. The owner of the Beaudry, worked with me patiently to get the hammer paid for.

This hammer originally came out of "American Bridge Co." in Pittsburgh, PA. This was there "small" hammer, was next to some massive A frame hammers. From photos and conversations (many) with the previous owner, it is in excellent condition. Bearings are free yet tight, no cracks/chips in the die block, arms/rollers are excellent (owner removed rollers to inspect, they are as new). Just a very nice hammer in every way.

Enough of the back story, just wanted to tell some of it. I do have a few questions that I will list below.

1- When moving, should I remove the anvil from the frame? I know this can be an issue on the Bradley hammers, but doesnt appear to be an issue on the Beaudry, input needed.

2- What the best location to lift the hammer? Im thinking a few lifting straps around the "C" area?

3- How deep a slab can i get by with? I currently have a section of my shop that has 18" deep concrete.

4- Base needed?? I will definitely have this hammer mounted on industrial conveyor belting. I may also put it on a wood base, not sure, looking for ideas on this.

5- Any start up/adjustment/tuning recomendations?

6- Can some one tell me what the bronze bushings in the last photo are for?

Will probably have a few more questions as the project unfolds. Will also post more pics later, here are a few the previous owner sent me.

Im happy, very happy.

beaudry7.jpg


beaudrydata.jpg


beaudrydieblock.jpg


beaudryclutch.jpg


beaudrymotor.jpg


beaudrydiesbearings.jpg
 
right on Bros... those are some of the best mechanicals !!

with dies... lucky scoop !

i can't comment to much on moving it... but do get in touch with either Fabreeka or Tico pads.. to order some decent corking for your inertia block.... that is if you want to do a pro job on the foundation.. .. they generally run it by their engineers on what size inertia block you need.. just don't get them to design it for you... that is tooooooo pricey

i bet the bushings are spares for the main shaft.. .. just don't know why you'd need them.. .. unless theres some play in there

take care
Greg
 
You might want to talk to Ray Rybar about mounting it properly. I had a conversation with him about a friend's 25-# Beaudry and he had some interesting input. WRT your questions:

- I'd remove the anvil. Why risk cracking the lower casting?
- You may want to cut a section of your slab to make it deeper and isolate it from the rest of your slab. I have a feeling a hammer that big might put a few cracks in your existing floor. Look up the specs for what the foundation should be, but I'm pretty sure it's pretty beefy.
- As for the base, you'll be wanting to bolt it down. My buddy with the 250# Beadry doesn't have his running right now because it was "walking" itself across the ground...

-d
 
Nice lookin Hammer, Man!

Two of those bushing go on the main shaft. I would bet one or two go in the clutch wheel (if it moves separate from the shaft).

Probably not necessary to remove the anvil but it sure wouldn't hurt. Might make it too top heavy for transport though.
 
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from a previous discussion on either iforgeiron.com or anvilfire.com i picked up that a hammer that size should have around a 4 foot deep slab, isolated from the rest of the floor, to prevent from cracking up your floor. 18" isnt enough for something that size.
 
thanks for the input, im in contact with a couple of guys that run same or very similar hammers. Just trying to get a consensus on moving/setup. I want to do this 1 time, do it right, and stay on a budget. Im hoping to get by the the existing slab, otherwise it means adding on to the shop which kinda kills the hole "budget" thing.

I thought of cutting a section of slab out and pouring an independent/deeper slab under this hammer... seems like that may be more work than adding on to the shop in some ways.

So far my idea is to build a base of 4x4 timbers lag bolted into the slab, and have the hammer bolted through the wood base (may even make a 1/4" steel plate gusset to support the bolts).

Yeah I know 18" is probably not enough, definitely not enough according to spec, but im thinking with the wood base it may be suffecient. Steve Gropp runs his #7 with a 2' slab, no issues. Will be giving it some thought over the next few weeks.

Any how, ideas appreciated.
 
Justin.Mercier said:
from a previous discussion on either iforgeiron.com or anvilfire.com i picked up that a hammer that size should have around a 4 foot deep slab, isolated from the rest of the floor, to prevent from cracking up your floor. 18" isnt enough for something that size.
Click to expand...

It depends on the hammer, older heavy duty machines don't require as much as many new machines. The little giant #250 weighs about the same as a dupont #150; thus the dupont absorbs the impact better.

Talk with a company that retreads tires for the rubber, they tend to have excess tread because of the changing regulations.

I would avoid lifting the hammer if possible, you might be able to move it on rollers onto a trailer. Its not too difficult as long as you have a few guys helping you and a come along/winch.
 
RMLamey said:
I thought of cutting a section of slab out and pouring an independent/deeper slab under this hammer... seems like that may be more work than adding on to the shop in some ways.
Click to expand...

At a minimum I'd cut the slab. Worst case there is you hammer a small section of your floor into the ground. Otherwise, you could crack your whole slab and need a new floor....

-d
 
18 inch doesn't even come in on minimum spec for a 50lbs lil giant.. which is 26inch

this is far more hammer than a 50...

rubber is a bad idea.. as i was told the flexing will cause the bolts to pull..
- mass directly under the hammer is the best isolator..

1/2 marine ply wood between cement and hammer just to take up the uneveness



( i'm just parroting the words of others in the know)
also.. i've consulted with engineers from fabreeka and tico to set up my 50...

http://www.tiflex.co.uk/tico_s/Tico_Hi-Duty/tico_hi-duty.html
http://www.fabreeka.com/products/fabsorb.htm



G
 
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You should definately cut the concrete slab, if its normal indoor slab on grade concrete it wont hold up very well, its probably in the 3500psi range. You could easily get by with 2 ft of much better concrete, as previously stated isolate it from the rest of your floor dont connect it with rebar like would be done on a normal slab. There are alot of additives that can be mixed with concrete to increase impact strength, and it should be cured atleast 28 days before any equipment gets bolted to it. Ive delivered 12,000psi concrete for columns that were poured 3 inches too high and wore out 4 jackhammer bits getting that 3 inches off. Ask your local redi mix plant if they are capable of adding micro-silica and a super plasticizer.
 
im giving serious thought to cutting out an area of my slab and pouring a 3' pad for the hammer, plenty of rebar, and likely a "frame" in the concrete for the base bolts to attach.
 
VERY COOL Matt! :D

There is one just like that at my old job that might be coming up for sale sometime soon. I'm selling a kidney if I have to ;)

I don't agree about old machines needing less concrete at all. When the ram on a hammer starts moving, there is a GREAT DEAL of mass in motion.

Heavy concrete bases have less to do with the concrete holding up and more to do with keeping the frame of the hammer STILL..... so that you are getting maximum blows and not wasting the hammer's energy. I've been to many shops where you see the hammer(s) dancing around the floor while in use.

Go to somebody like Berkley Tack's shop where he has the manufacturer's recommended pad under every hammer... and the only part of the hammers that move are the moving parts!!!


Berkley put it in good perspective. "Grab ahold of the top of a 100# hammer and try to rock it back and forth the way an improperly mounted hammer will move around while running. Now let's just imagine you COULD move it like that.... now ALL of that engergy it's taking you to move that hammer is the same amount wasted in a hammer not properly set up."


I'd say 3' thick as minimum Matt. More likely in the 4-5 foot thick range. :)



And for the record, my 100# LG is NOT mounted as well as it could be, and it does indeed make a difference. It WILL be mounted correctly when I build a new shop.
 
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yeah... I KNOW it would be better to have a big pad, 3 to 5 feet deep, under the hammer. I was just looking for some support for using my existing slab, you guys sure dont let a guy "get by", NOOOO....... Everything here has to be done just right:rolleyes:

Kidding aside, the more I think about it, the more it makes sence to go ahead and do it "right". Too much $, time, effort invested in getting this hammer to only mount it, crack the slab and have to start over.

Now, if anyone wants to make a very big donation I will just add on to the shop, hell enough folks send money and I will just build a new shop.... You can even come stay at the house for free BBQ. ;)

I wish some folks that actually use the Beaudry hammers would chime in... I know your out there... Ed Fowler....Chuck Richards. Could use some initial tuning/start up tips.
 
i know John little has a 150lbs beaudry in his shop.. its a beaut and solid .. i'd send out a few emails.. to people with them... it pays to knock on doors, occasionally....

here's johns site
http://johnlittleironwork.tripod.com/

there used to be a 300lbs beaudry in the lunnenburg forge.. but i dunno if its still running.... last i heard, they sold it

G
 
RMLamey said:
Kidding aside, the more I think about it, the more it makes sence to go ahead and do it "right". Too much $, time, effort invested in getting this hammer to only mount it, crack the slab and have to start over.
Click to expand...

Worse yet, if you don't have it properly fastened, you can crack the main casting....good choice. I know it sucks to finally have it after all you've been through and not be able to use it, but in the long run you'll thank yourself....

-d
 
Just bolt it down into somewhere around 3 feet (give or take) of reinforced concrete... maybe a bit of an overkill, but it for dang sure won't go anywhere. Built a little cage/frame out of rebar, weld your "L" bolts in place, set it in a hole in the ground, pour the concrete in and level it off. :)

That's what I'd do anyway...
 
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yep Tai... I think thats about the plan. Will probably put a 3/4" thick sheet of plywood under it. Was thinking of a 4x4 or 6x6 wood base, but the few hammers ive used with wood bases tend to "bounce" a bit when you really get on them hard.
 
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