Beginner's guide to buying Folders

K

keats

Joined
Nov 3, 2010
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This is for people looking to get into the knife world, maybe looking for a good EDC (every day carry) at a reasonable price.

I don't claim to be an expert, just have been through the pain (and considerable expense) of buying some knives that weren't really what I was looking for. I'm trying to save people some of that pain (and potentially, expense). Also, I'm dealing with non-assist, non-automatic folders. I consider the others toys--neat toys, but still toys.

Things I consider:

1. blade steel.
2. blade length and weight.
3. lock.
4. handle material
5. serration
6. look
7. make

1. blade steel:
Imho, you should be looking for one of a few types of steel...this assuming you aren't going for a custom blade (damascus and other hybrids).

S30V - pretty much the best steel out there...very hard, holds an edge, difficult to sharpen
CM154 - similar to S30V but even harder to sharpen
D2 - great steel, easy to sharpen, not quite as hard as the above types.
Aus8/10 - still very good steel...avoid Aus6 imho.
There are a few corrosion resistant steels that are also worth considering...one is used in the Spyderco Salt and another is used in some Benchmade Griptilian clones.

Anything other than the above, I would avoid. Are they horrible? no. Will they cut things? yes. They just seem cheap to me...

2. blade length
imho, if you are looking for a tactical blade, the longer the better...something in the area of 4". For non-tactical, urban, concealed utility knives, around 3 inches is sufficient. Check with your State regarding knife laws. There are people who think the lighter the better...I disagree. For me the knife doesn't have to weigh less than 2 oz. I have some heavier ones that I carry without even noticing the weight.

3. lock - getting to the heart and soul here...frame and liner locks rely on bent steel that slides into place behind the blade to lock it in place. Do they work? yeah. Do I like them? NO. I hate liner and frame locks and will not buy any more of them. The Sebenza 21 is generally considered an excellent blade...and it is! great steel, craftsmanship...frame lock...part of the frame moves in behind the blade based on the fact that it is slightly bent. You have to straighten that piece of steel out to close it. It is sound..I just don't like them. I have to admit that most of the top combat folders and big names use liner or frame locks.

Locks I like...Benchmade Axis..great lock...SOG Arc lock, lock backs (many Bucks use lock back).

4. Handle material - a lot of handles are G10, some are plastic...I haven't met a handle material that I wasn't ok with. G10 seems a little more solid, but the zytel stuff or fiberglass seem just fine.

5. Serration..imho, any blade that you're going to carry every day as a utility knife should have partial serration...for seat belt cutting, any kind of sawing, the serration is nice. Rescue knives are often fully serrated and don't have a stabbing point.

6. Blade shape/functionality/look - really a personal preference here...blade shapes can offer some different functionality, but the bottom line is, do you want to cut stuff and is the knife supposed to be a weapon. If it is, you need a stabbing point.

7. Make - lot of great knife makers out there...I am currently partial to Benchmade, Spyderco and Buck. Ideally, I would like to see that the knife was made in the US.

My current blade searches are for S30V or D2 blades with axis or lock back locking mechanisms, partiallly serrated, around 3" (not looking for a weapon--for that I'd suggest Striders, Zero Tolerance, some Cold Steel blades, the Gerber Applegate Fairbairn is nice--liner lock though I think) I consider the blade shape, functionality and look after I find something that fits the above critieria.

Some current suggestions: I absolutely love the Spyderco Native S30V version for somewhere between 55-70 bucks. I also like the new Benchmade Bone collector line and the Harley Davidsons for some different, more classic looks all in the $100+ range that I've seen. Also, the Buck site has
a customizable knife build system that can set you up with a classic hunting folder in S30V steel with a lock back for around 100 bucks...handle is configurable for different looks.

Hope this helps you skip some of the junk I bought early on, and still keep the fun of discovering WOW, this is one nice knife...

K~
 
I wouldn't hesitate to add VG-10 to the blade steel selection. It holds a very sharp & durable edge with little effort to maintain. One of my favorite steels for folders.
 
I think the Sebenza frame lock is one of the strongest locks out there. I see my self accidentally releasing an axis lock before a framelock. Its also not steel, it's titanium. Plus, if you keep your knife sharp, here should be no need for serrations. That's my opinion.
 
Very good advice and Great post :thumbup:

I'm going to check out that buck folder in S30V
 
a knife should always have serrations? I think not, and I think many knife users would agree with me. I think serrations a noobie mistake. One I made..
 
Thalestin said:
a knife should always have serrations? I think not, and I think many knife users would agree with me. I think serrations a noobie mistake. One I made..
Click to expand...

I agree. If I had a knife that was used for cutting rope and webbing exclusively, then maybe. They are a pain in the butt to sharpen and not necessary if a plain edge is properly sharpened.
 
+1 on the no serrations. A well sharpened plain edge will cut anything just as well as a serrated edge (unless you're cutting rope all day long).
 
And another thing I just thought of. No tanto blades. That corner between the two edges is right where the sweet spot should be on a blade with a proper belly to it.
 
I'm sorry but I can't take you seriously if you're saying that serrations are a must, the longer the blade the better, and that frame/liner locks are bad.
 
I'm having difficulty with this a little bit and of course no serrations for me ever. If I ever get a serrated knife (unlikely) it will be fully serrated. Nice post though! :)

keats said:
S30V - pretty much the best steel out there...very hard, holds an edge, difficult to sharpen
CM154 - similar to S30V but even harder to sharpen
D2 - great steel, easy to sharpen, not quite as hard as the above types.
Click to expand...
 
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Neat idea, but the post contains some pretty opinionated ideas that will be controversial to many, many people. IMO, a beginner's guide should be as neutral as possible, allow argument from both sides if you want to elaborate on them, and guide people into settling into a style of knives that they are comfortable with and useful for them.
 
I also agree with the no serrations, and as long as the liner/frame locks are buy quality companies they'll work well (spyderco military, umnumzaans, stiders, emersons). Also as for steel I don't think S30V is the best out there, its a great steel and well rounded but I wouldn't say the best in any category (toughness, edge holding, rust resistance). I'd also say 154cm has less edge holding ability, and is easier to sharpen than S30V, D2 is harder to sharpen, holds an edge slightly longer than s30v and has less rust resistance. Overall a good start to a guide though:thumbup:
 
Welcome to Blade Forums. An interesting first post. I would like to see how your ideas develop and change over time after you've used your knives for a while - I suspect you will be revising a few things
 
Thanks for taking the time with the post - but in the end the only way to find out about cutlery is by making lots of little mistakes, buying, selling on, becoming part of a fraternity, coming to decisions and making choices that are your own. In the end you will be able to brief a knife maker to make you the things that you want, and know how to hunt down the things that have been commercially produced that fit your bill.
 
Woah! thanks for the replies.

1st. I admit I am no expert.

2nd. Have not tried a vg-10 blade but was just looking at some spydercos with that steel wondering if it was worth it. I love the S30V and D2. Will have to give a VG-10 blade a try.

3rd. No way am I going to attack a Sabenza on lack of quality. I own one. You are correct on the titanium. The thing is, the lock is a bent piece of the frame. When the blade opens, that bent piece relaxes into place behind the blade and snap...like I said, it works. It is solid. I just don't like it. In order to unlock it, you have to bend that piece away from the blade. I bought the sabenza thinking it would be the be-all, end-all last purchase. I will probably end up loaning it to a friend going overseas with the military so that he has a good knife with him. I tried to condition my dislike of liner and frame locks by saying that the most reputable knives out there use them...like the strider MARSOC for instance...that Gerber Applegate...some really good combat knives...and of course the Sabenza.

4th Serration...this really shocked me...I admit, I'm a noob, but it is hard to imagine that a non-serrated edge will cut certain items just as well as serration...I mean, you don't see many plain edged saws. I based my statement on the fact that just about all of the rescue knives I've seen are fully serrated. I thought plain edge was more for weapons/hunting. But the replies seem to come from more experienced carriers, and I'll at least reserve judgement. And thanks for taking the time...I take no offense and appreciate the opinions.

Finally, looking on opinions on the Fallkniven Folding Hunter, F9 I think it is. Pretty expensive, but is it worth it?

Thanks everybody for the replies.

K~
 
Phade said:
I'm sorry but I can't take you seriously if you're saying that serrations are a must, the longer the blade the better, and that frame/liner locks are bad.
Click to expand...

That's ok. I am, indeed, new to blades. Let me try to explain:

Serrations are necessary for me for a utility knife, one that you carry every day that you might need to saw through something. Generally it seems like, plain edge for slicing...serration for sawing. Is it better to have a saw? yeah, but I can't fit one in my pocket. So for the one knife I carry with me, i want it to have that inch or so of serration in case I have to saw through something faster than a sharp plain edge would let me do.

Serration is not at all necessary for a blade meant to be primarily a weapon, or for say, a hunting knife where you're using it to skin something...might want a gut hook or something, but I don't usually see serration on hunting knives.

The longer the blade the better...does sound kind of silly...as a 12 inch bladed folder would sort of defeat the purpose of owning a folder in the first place. But between the 2-4" blades that normally fall into this class...if you want a weapon, better go with the 4" blades...3.6" minimum as a weapon. I don't carry my mini 2.9" bone collector expecting combat. Would it work in combat? well sure, but if I was going into combat, I'd want that MARSOC Strider or maybe that Gerber Applegate...the longer the blade in this class the better as a weapon, not an everyday carry...unless you take your EDC into say, North Philly at night on a regular basis.

I don't say that frame/liner locks are bad. I just don't like them. I like the lock back and axis locks better. I don't like having to bend a piece of steel to close the blade. And in the original post I recognize that most of the extremely reputable knives (like the sabenza, striders, zero tolerance) are liner or frame lock.

K~
 
Agreed.

Pretty much everything said was kinda off. But hey, I respect the guy for being the first to admit it, and not put up a fight.
 
keats said:
That's ok. I am, indeed, new to blades. Let me try to explain:

Serrations are necessary for me for a utility knife, one that you carry every day that you might need to saw through something. Generally it seems like, plain edge for slicing...serration for sawing. Is it better to have a saw? yeah, but I can't fit one in my pocket. So for the one knife I carry with me, i want it to have that inch or so of serration in case I have to saw through something faster than a sharp plain edge would let me do.

Serration is not at all necessary for a blade meant to be primarily a weapon, or for say, a hunting knife where you're using it to skin something...might want a gut hook or something, but I don't usually see serration on hunting knives.

The longer the blade the better...does sound kind of silly...as a 12 inch bladed folder would sort of defeat the purpose of owning a folder in the first place. But between the 2-4" blades that normally fall into this class...if you want a weapon, better go with the 4" blades...3.6" minimum as a weapon. I don't carry my mini 2.9" bone collector expecting combat. Would it work in combat? well sure, but if I was going into combat, I'd want that MARSOC Strider or maybe that Gerber Applegate...the longer the blade in this class the better as a weapon, not an everyday carry...unless you take your EDC into say, North Philly at night on a regular basis.

I don't say that frame/liner locks are bad. I just don't like them. I like the lock back and axis locks better. I don't like having to bend a piece of steel to close the blade. And in the original post I recognize that most of the extremely reputable knives (like the sabenza, striders, zero tolerance) are liner or frame lock.

K~
Click to expand...
Serrations are job specific. For me, the only materials that really require serrations would be either hard plastic or thick wood, both of which might be served by an actual saw instead.

Also, the fully serrated Spyderco Civilian is pretty good as a weapon. Serrations make nasty tears on flesh and cause more pain than plain edges(most of which results in deep cuts before I notice anything). Serrations would be better for the punk who mistook you for an easy prey, a plain edge is better for that junkie who's too high on drugs to feel much of anything anyways.

Length is a tricky issue. It's desirable to have more range in a weapon, but in the end, a knife is a knife(unless it's long enough to be called a sword). Once you do get up close and personal, I guarantee you that 3 inches of blade would be good enough to sever muscles and split arteries.

Still, my considerations for a knife is for a tool, not a weapon(try not to spoil it for the rest of us). My Emerson wave opening "combat" knives are sitting in a shelf collecting dust. My ZT 0301 while said to be a "combat" knife is my favorite hard use knife despite having been cut by it 3 times because the V grind edge is more useful than Emerson's chisel grind, the DLC holds up better than black oxide, and the overall shape fits my hand more comfortably. My BM 710-1 is perfect for EDC as the thin and narrow blade makes it extremely easy to cut just about everything.
 
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