Beginner's guide to buying Folders

[jackman2]

I second the idea of having a Vic Farmer as a backup. The saw is a beast. Carved a sweet pumpkin with mine.

 

[chanwahyaoh]

3rd. No way am I going to attack a Sabenza on lack of quality. I own one. You are correct on the titanium. The thing is, the lock is a bent piece of the frame. When the blade opens, that bent piece relaxes into place behind the blade and snap...like I said, it works. It is solid. I just don't like it. In order to unlock it, you have to bend that piece away from the blade. I bought the sabenza thinking it would be the be-all, end-all last purchase. I will probably end up loaning it to a friend going overseas with the military so that he has a good knife with him. I tried to condition my dislike of liner and frame locks by saying that the most reputable knives out there use them...like the strider MARSOC for instance...that Gerber Applegate...some really good combat knives...and of course the Sabenza.

Nearly all locks rely on bending a piece of metal to unlock (some type of spring mechanism). Axis locks utilize an omega spring. Lockbacks have a spring as well. Frame & linerlocks are leafsprings.
The only non-sprung lock I can think of off the top of my head is the twist-ring on an Opinel.

 

[Thalestin]

how so? I have 2 knives in my pocket and they are both fully serrated. I am far from a knife noob



serrations are easy to sharpen with the sharpmaker

I meant combo edges. I'm glad serrations work for you, they are great for some apps, just not many IMO. Plus I find serrations do not work for things such as carving or fine slicing

 

[RevDevil]

Wow and welcome to Bladeforums...

I'm having difficulty with this a little bit and of course no serrations for me ever. If I ever get a serrated knife (unlikely) it will be fully serrated. Nice post though!

I did as well, in addition to other aspects.

Understanding that the OP is new, statements should be made without declaring certainty. Say things like, "The steel appears to be", instead of saying "the steel is". If you are unsure of what you are stating, impy it as opinion rather than fact. It's always a less heated and safer way to travel as you learn. Avoid blanket statements if possible.

Woah! thanks for the replies.

1st. I admit I am no expert.

2nd. Have not tried a vg-10 blade but was just looking at some spydercos with that steel wondering if it was worth it. I love the S30V and D2. Will have to give a VG-10 blade a try.

3rd. No way am I going to attack a Sabenza on lack of quality. I own one. You are correct on the titanium. The thing is, the lock is a bent piece of the frame. When the blade opens, that bent piece relaxes into place behind the blade and snap...like I said, it works. It is solid. I just don't like it. In order to unlock it, you have to bend that piece away from the blade. I bought the sabenza thinking it would be the be-all, end-all last purchase. I will probably end up loaning it to a friend going overseas with the military so that he has a good knife with him. I tried to condition my dislike of liner and frame locks by saying that the most reputable knives out there use them...like the strider MARSOC for instance...that Gerber Applegate...some really good combat knives...and of course the Sabenza.

4th Serration...this really shocked me...I admit, I'm a noob, but it is hard to imagine that a non-serrated edge will cut certain items just as well as serration...I mean, you don't see many plain edged saws. I based my statement on the fact that just about all of the rescue knives I've seen are fully serrated. I thought plain edge was more for weapons/hunting. But the replies seem to come from more experienced carriers, and I'll at least reserve judgement. And thanks for taking the time...I take no offense and appreciate the opinions.
K~

1- No worries, we can tell and not many of us are either.

2- VG-10 is a great steel as are the others you mentioned. However the caveat is that the steel in and of itself is not what makes it great. If you have CPM-S90V with a poor heat treat and it ends up at 57RC that would not be indicative of a great blade unless yopu plan on it being your butter spreader. Yet, if you have a 420HC blade with a proper heat treat, it can cut better than most steels without the proper treat. Something to keep in mind.

In many cases the heat treat of the steel by someone that has a detailed knowledge of its properties is what makes or breaks it. This is just my thoughts, but I am certain that many others would agree.

3- As for the Sebenza, if you do in fact own one, why on Earth would you spend $300+ on a knife you are not sure you like or not only to end up not liking it? That makes very little sense, and makes me doubt you actually have one (does not matter either way). The engineering on a frame lock (Sebenza) is done in a very carefully controlled manner by people that have exacting knowledge and ability to execute the lock safely and effectively. Chris R should, he developed the RIL to begin with, if he doesn't do it right, no one can. The differences between Ti and plain old steel are similar to comparing a Granny Smith apple to new born kitten.

4- Rescue blades are meant to cut material away from something. In most cases the item being cut with a rescue blade is of secondary importance, (save the limb not the pants or shirt). They are designed to cut efficiently with minimal effort and quickly, as well as the sheeps foot tip to not cause further injury. Not every situation calls for a serrated edge, you can also slice things very effectively with a properly sharpened plain edge knife.

Welcome to the forum, Keats, and thank you for your post.

I think I must classify your submission as an 'opinion piece', rather than a 'guide' per se. I am a bit uncomfortable with categorizing any knife as a weapon, as it is a tool, first and foremost, IMO. As a previous poster suggested, you will more than likely change your position on many points, as have I since becoming a member here. The fun is in the discovery!

Enjoy your stay. :thumbup:

I agree with A.P.F. 100% :thumbup:

 

[cultivateitnow]

It would be interesting to see everyone make up this list and file it away. Check back every 5 or 10 years and see what has changed. Too, reviewing all the list to see what are common features between all might add value to a search by the general public.

Making a list like this for fixed blades would be fun too, but they would need to be by task, Hunting, Survival, Kitchen, Military, Processing Plant, etc.

BTW, I've always been hard on folks that like serrated blades. Those that repeat the rope thing tickle me. I will have to say I found my first good use for a serrated blade. Carving pumkins was much easier with a serrated blade. Maybe if I live another 50 years I'll find two task they are good at.

I was surprised that folks jumped on the serrated blade thing and not a few others...like blade steel.

That is the cool thing about knives. I don't have to agree, nor should I if the shoes don't fit. What works for me may not work for anyone else. I might think orange handles are required, folks playing in salt water think yellow handles and H1 are necessary. Maybe we are all correct, maybe none of us.

All in good fun.

 

[Mrbladedude]

Agreed.

Pretty much everything said was kinda off. But hey, I respect the guy for being the first to admit it, and not put up a fight.

Everything said was not off. He mentioned some quality makers and quality steels. Most which was his opinion.

 

[keats]

Wow and welcome to Bladeforums...


3- As for the Sebenza, if you do in fact own one, why on Earth would you spend $300+ on a knife you are not sure you like or not only to end up not liking it? That makes very little sense, and makes me doubt you actually have one (does not matter either way). The engineering on a frame lock (Sebenza) is done in a very carefully controlled manner by people that have exacting knowledge and ability to execute the lock safely and effectively. Chris R should, he developed the RIL to begin with, if he doesn't do it right, no one can. The differences between Ti and plain old steel are similar to comparing a Granny Smith apple to new born kitten.

I agree with A.P.F. 100% :thumbup:

I didn't spend more than $300. I shopped around a lot before I found one for less. I think I mentioned somewhere that I expected it to be my last purchase because I figured I'd love it as much as many posters on this and other forums...can't go wrong with a sebenza! Well, I did. It don't carry it. BEAST of a knife, as good as fixed blade in some ways...GREAT steel (apparently), but too big for me to carry in my work environment and has a locking mechanism I don't like. I was and am still disappointed with my expensive safe queen. It might be different if I was outdoors more or in the military...

I'm carrying a benchmade mini bone collector...not quite as good steel (D2) imho, small enough to disappear, partial serration, a lock that I like, smooth motion...can't say enough good things about it. The Spyderco S30V Native is a close second...nice solid lock back, CLEARLY better steal (in my opinion)but plastic handle, not quite as smooth motion, almost full serration (not as much plain cutting surface). But you can get that Spyderco for like...60 bucks or so, where the Bone Collector is around 100.

The whole point to the guide was to show what I've been through so far. I'm sure I'll learn a lot as I collect and use, but so far...nothing I've said has seemed to become inaccurate despite some of the ad hominem insults (like calling me a liar for instance).

A point on serration...some of the purists on here have said they prefer knives without it...that is fine. I based my opinion on the types of knives that have it. Bunch of people called me a noob...then some people came on who actually use knives for more than cutting pizza...yeah, serration is pretty much used on all sorts of tougher materials...but you don't cut rope...or seatbelts...or harnesses on warehouse machinery, or....boxes....

So I decided to test it.

Go out, sharpen up your best plain edge, then try cutting through some tougher materials quickly...then compare it to that little $60 spyderco.... Yeah I'll take the serration thanks.

Maybe you'll never have to cut a seat belt to get someone out of a vehicle, but you might never have a fire in your house either...do you go without an extinguisher?

For an EDC, I'll take partial serration...now based on testing it rather than reading about it.

 

[bada61265]

i am part of the consensus that serrated edge blades are ok for those who dont sharpen there knives or dont do a good job at it. one thing i think can be said about serrated edges is that they most likely will never cut like a well sharpened pe blade. that is set in stone by the shape of the serrations and will only get worse over time. yea ok u can sharpen them, buy a jewelers loop while buying your diamond needle files.
not shure why you dont like liner / frame locks. seems that bending metal is some sort of voodoo that you dont want any part of. you might want to examine lockbacks and other mechanisms that use the voodoo of springs of various sorts all bending and springing back.... i say embrace the magic and own one of each.

 

[mat_890]

For anyone who bashed this guy, lets see your guide. What.. don't have one? Really?

In all seriousness its a start, a small start but more useful then the parroted responses from some of the expert paper cutters here. Some of what he said was inaccurate, most was opinion but it was more of an attempt them most people (including myself) would ever have the balls to do.

As far as the serrations go... I don't think they hamper day to day cutting as much as its stated here. Maybe if you use your Endura to peel apples and cut cereal boxes it would be a pain in the ass but thats it IMO.

For a lot of things they can be useful, for some things not so much. Yes you can just sharpen your knife to its fullest potential (and most probably do) but it still won't cut webbing, rope, thick plastics, saw through wood or aluminum as good as serrations will. *gasp* Yes some people have to actually use their knives on something other then paper, commercial packaging, paracord and apple peeling.

Half and half is like a "jack of all trades yet master of none" but certainly not a noobie mistake and certainly has its place.