Being Cheap didn't work. Need Advice.

I agree that the knife probably shouldn't exhibit that behavior, but I also think that even if benchmade finds it to be defective that I'd want something with either a thicker blade behind the edge or a tougher steel. I take it the blade hit a knot in the wood and the edge buckled when it was deflected while the rest of the blade wasn't. With a thin hollow grind and 60+rc stainless steel I'd be very hesitant to baton through something other than clean pine. Unless I'm using a knife I have full confidence in (in regards to not being damaged even if forced) I'll either try to find a better way to cut with the knife or get a better tool for the job(usually my Natural Outlaw).
That's probably just me being paranoid, I haven't broken anything batoning yet, but I have rippled edges in hard knotty wood, and once had the blade in my Becker Magnum camp flex about 10 degrees in a V when it hit a knot I hadn't noticed while halfway through a piece of wood. It was unaffected after I finished cutting that, but I only use it for trimming small branches off trees and also the overgrown bamboo and bananna trees now.
 
N690 is usually a pretty good steel: quite a few Australian makers are using it to good effect.

My suggestions for a good camp knife would be a Ranger Knives RD6, or a Swamp Rat Howling Rat or Camp Tramp.
 
yoda4561 said:
I'd want something with either a thicker blade behind the edge or a tougher steel.
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It isn't what I would pick for that type of brush work either, but I don't baton in the style described in the above, I use fairly heavy impacts usually. Send the knife back to Benchmade with a copy of this thread. I would pretty insensible of them to admit publically that their knives can't handle what you can do with a $5 mora.

-Cliff
 
The Rants have particularly thin hollow ground edges. They are nice for hunting knives, but not the proportions you want for battoning. They are very similar in configuration to the Buck Vanguard except that the blade is significantly thinner behind the edge in the Rant. The Rant blade is stainless hardened up around 60RC. I am not surprised to see this type of failure.
 
Ebbtide said:
All three for right around 200 bucks (give or take 10 or 20 depending on handle materials)
wallymuk.jpg


Why buy just one new toy?



Bwahahahahahahaha ;)
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What are the top two there?
Is that a Queen?
 
Cliff Stamp said:
That's a problem with the steel :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/baton_benchmade.jpg

I would ask for a replacement.

-Cliff
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Yikes!!! I do not think I have EVER seen anything like that!
Unless there was a carbide spike in the wood, NO knife(except a ceramic one) should do something like that!!!

I would suggest a Bark River Knife and Tool Northstar
Yet_More_Knives_0002.jpg

It is the knife with the Blaze Orange grips, but you can get it in any material.
It has a full convexed edge, so it is very good for splitting wood, the only possible problem being that the blade is narrow, and so you do not get too deep with the batton over the wood being split, but it usually splits so well, that it is not a problem. The micro axe also works very well for battoning.
 
jefffoxsr said:
It's 440. Should I stick to s30v since people say it's better? Thanks.
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As somebody mentioned already non-stainless (high carbon) steel should handle batoning better but there are downsides to high-carbon steel too (it leaves metallic taste on some food and it's obviously more prone to rusting). Either way get something thicker and remember that blade hardness is always a compromise - the higher the figure the more brittle the blade is. The more brittle it is, the sonner it will chip (but it will hold the edge longer if you don't abuse it).
 
Boozoo Chavis said:
For under 200 bucks I would suggest

1.-An Estwing sportsmans ax for chopping wood (32.95)
i511061sq02.jpg


2.-A Swamp Rat "Howling Rat" (88.95) for use as a camp knife.
howlingratsm.jpg


3. Spend the extra 78 bucks on......
9C050.jpg


:D :D :D
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Exactly :D
 
Based on reading some threads, and for the reasonable price, the howling rat seems like a good general purpose fixed blade for easy work around the camp site.

Thanks.
 
It's a great knife, but due to demand and relatively limited production I've heard that delivery takes some time, though that may just be an issue with Swamprat's larger blades. Not to discourage you from buying one, but make sure you check when you order about delivery times to make sure it's not too long a wait.
 
jefffoxsr said:
Based on reading some threads, and for the reasonable price, the howling rat seems like a good general purpose fixed blade for easy work around the camp site.

Thanks.
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No need to limit it to 'easy' work. Cliff posted a pic over on Rat Chat of his 200+ lb brother hanging from the handle of a Howling Rat. Not bad for a 3/16" thru tempered blade.

I've had mine for 3 years and love it. Yes, you may have to wait, but the wait is worth it. Depends where they are in the production cycle.

Rob
 
That's impressive. I'll call them tomorrow. I don't mind waiting for something worthwhile.

Thanks.
 
jefffoxsr said:
That's impressive. I'll call them tomorrow. I don't mind waiting for something worthwhile.

Thanks.
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You can not call them - only online or by e-mail.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
James Ray, the top knife is a Helle Jegermester 5" Sandvick SS blade about 1/8" thick. It is my camp cooker and marshmallow stick pointer.
Here it is on kitchen duty...chile...yum:D
jeger2.jpg

The slip joint is a Queen D2 canoe.
It looks different 'cause I sanded the blade etch off ;)
They both came in around $50 (each)
 
I agree with Mr. Clark the blade is deeply hollow ground so you are sacrificing strength for shapness. I own a Rant Bowie and I thinkof it as a Skinner. For batoning the Becker 9 or Kershaw Outcast is a better tool. One can break any knife if they work at it hard enough regardless of price.
 
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