Belts for Micarta

Stromberg Knives

Stromberg Knives

strombergknives.com
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Jan 3, 2015
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I'm wondering what you guys consider the best belt type for shaping Micarta handles?

It's a pretty tough material, so I go slow. But it's really eating my AO-belts at 60 grit. I bet many of you have first hand experience regarding this and might be willing to share your knowledge.

Would it be more effective to use another kind of abrasive? Zirconia, ceramic? For wood I understand ceramics clogs as fast as AO, and therefore it's just bad cost/benefit in that case. But what about Micarta?
 
I use corse ceremic belts to rough it out and have not had a problem. But I dont use alot of micarta so I might not be much help. I'm starting to use it more so I will keep an eye on this thread to see what others come up with.

If you don't mind I would like to toss a second question out there with yours. What bandsaw blades are you using to cut micarta and G10? I had to cut some G10 the other day and it ate my bandsaw blade.
 
Recently got some of the vsm 60 grit ceramic belts....best belt I have used for dense , oily hardwoods and synthetics
 
timos- said:
Recently got some of the vsm 60 grit ceramic belts....best belt I have used for dense , oily hardwoods and synthetics
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I feel pretty stupid. I was so convinced ceramics wasn't good on Micarta that I haven't even tried it. I actually use a lot of VSM XK870X (36, 60 and 120 grit) for steel. So I tried some rough handle Micarta grinding with the 36 grit. It seem to last a lot longer than regular AO belts. I used compressed air and a piece of steel to clean the belt after a while.

I like to use pressure when I'm grinding, this too seem to work better with a coarse ceramic. Got to let that 3 hp motor stretch its legs. :D

So thanks for the tip, this also means fewer belt types to stock since I mostly do Micarta handles.
 
JTknives said:
If you don't mind I would like to toss a second question out there with yours. What bandsaw blades are you using to cut micarta and G10? I had to cut some G10 the other day and it ate my bandsaw blade.
Click to expand...

No problem, that's something I'd also like to get more information about. I'm using a wood bandsaw for Micarta and it's literally eating my blades.
 
i use 36 grit ceramic 3m for roughing micarta. saves my finer grit belts. and its faster. in my experience with my belt speeds 220 grit is too fine for shaping micarta. it will turn brown from heat. 120 is about the highest i go for shaping. the higher grits are just for finishing and removing the 120 scratches.
 
I use a metal cutting upright band saw 16 T.P.I. with a soft back. I start with ceramic belts and then go from 220 to whatever. I usually end up hand sanding to 800 and often buffing.
Frank
 
With things like micarta and many oily woods, they "clog" the belt. With the belt running (at medium speed if you have VS) , use a rubber belt cleaner block or a wire brush to get the gunk of the belt. It will cut fine again. The same technique can clean up belts clogged with metals.

To restore a belt that appears glazed or dull. Take a brick or old grinder wheel and use the edge/corner to work the belt HARD while running at full speed. Then take a piece of steel and lean in hard on the belt. This will shear the grit surface and restore the belt. This is needed on structured abrasives ( cubic) as normal maintenance of the belt. I haven't used one, but I hear a diamond dressing bar works well on the ceramic belts.

I would bet that 90% of all coarse belts discarded by new knifemakers are perfectly good. In industry, they get used for the equivalent of hundreds of knives and are still cutting strong. I know makers that regularly get 100 knives a belt.

Even the finer grits that seem to stop cutting can be restored by a rubber block and/or a brick. They do wear out faster than the coarse grits.
 
john april said:
i use 36 grit ceramic 3m for roughing micarta. saves my finer grit belts. and its faster. in my experience with my belt speeds 220 grit is too fine for shaping micarta. it will turn brown from heat. 120 is about the highest i go for shaping. the higher grits are just for finishing and removing the 120 scratches.
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Same for me but I've been using the 36 Klingspoor AOs to get the ball rolling.


Then to 120 J weight AOs then 220 then some 400 AO then into the knife fixture for hand sanding to whatever.

Just be sure to leave meat on the bone, so to speak, with the 36s. They can leave some deep scratches.

Just like stacy said when the belts get crudded up take the time to clean them ( I have a rubber eraser thing ). It saves you time trying to grind with a gummed belt that's not cutting and just heating up.
 
JTknives said:
I'm starting to use it more so I will keep an eye on this thread to see what others come up with.

If you don't mind I would like to toss a second question out there with yours. What bandsaw blades are you using to cut micarta and G10? I had to cut some G10 the other day and it ate my bandsaw blade.
Click to expand...

+ 1 on watching the thread concerning the belts. JT I use the 24tpi Lenox blades for steel from Lowes on my portaband and it eats right through the stuff I make. It's not "genuine" micarts, but I can't belive it would be much different. It's been cutting my 1084 as well soooo... Cuts pretty clean too. The images are straight from the saw, no sanding at all. Just ran my fingernail down the edge to knock off the fuzz.



 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
To restore a belt that appears glazed or dull. Take a brick or old grinder wheel and use the edge/corner to work the belt HARD while running at full speed. Then take a piece of steel and lean in hard on the belt. This will shear the grit surface and restore the belt. This is needed on structured abrasives ( cubic) as normal maintenance of the belt. I haven't used one, but I hear a diamond dressing bar works well on the ceramic belts.

I would bet that 90% of all coarse belts discarded by new knifemakers are perfectly good. In industry, they get used for the equivalent of hundreds of knives and are still cutting strong. I know makers that regularly get 100 knives a belt.

Even the finer grits that seem to stop cutting can be restored by a rubber block and/or a brick. They do wear out faster than the coarse grits.
Click to expand...

Great tip, but what do you mean by "take a brick or old grinder wheel and use the edge/corner to work the belt..."?

Do you actually mean a brick? Sorry, but I'm not a native english speaker.
 
I'm pretty sure he means literally, a brick, but if you have a grinding wheel dressing stone that should work as well.
 
Call me crazy, but when I read the title of this thread, I thought you were asking about laminating (abrasive) belts together to make some sort of home brew micarta. That could be interesting. As for the actual topic of the thread, I just use worn blaze belts to get me close to final shape and then finish it off with files and sandpaper. I like to do most of the finish work by hand because it gives me more control of the ergonomics and I can dial things in easier without the risk of removing to much material.
 
xXBackyardCrafterXx said:
Call me crazy, but when I read the title of this thread, I thought you were asking about laminating (abrasive) belts together to make some sort of home brew micarta. That could be interesting. As for the actual topic of the thread, I just use worn blaze belts to get me close to final shape and then finish it off with files and sandpaper. I like to do most of the finish work by hand because it gives me more control of the ergonomics and I can dial things in easier without the risk of removing to much material.
Click to expand...

Like the sand paper grips on a Springfield TRP full rail...I like where your head is at :encouragement:
 
JT get a cheap tile saw... one $10 blade has lasted me 2 years.

AO does not clog as badly as ceramic for me but I tend to use old ceramic belts as they do a nice job. 1" scalloped AO belts are useful for curves and rounding.

Try a green scrubby (3m scotchbrite) or scotchbrite belts too. Scotchbrite can undercut a glue line so just go lightly and only a few passes.
 
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