Bench Stones

R

Rob Simonich

Big Bear
Joined
Oct 3, 1998
Messages
2,294
Well I finally broke down and ordered a set of Ceramic Spyderco bench stones. The only thing is that they only had the medium! Any of you guys out there have the stones? I ordered all three and was wondering if the ultrafine does any cutting or is it just anedge polisher? Ans Sal, when is the next bunch of stones coming out? Thanks, Rob Simonich
Impatiently awaiting the stones and the Tie Clipit!
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www.simonichknives.com

[This message has been edited by Rob Simonich (edited 04 March 1999).]
 
Rob,
I've got the set, they are GREAT. I use the ultra fine for polishishing mainly, but I guess it will cut a little.....Sal knows more.



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Stay Sharp!
Will Fennell
President-EDI Knives
www.ediknives.com
 
Endre --

I think you're crazy if you use those stones any way but dry. They cut way faster dry, and though the stone ends up dirty, they clean up amazingly fast with an SOS pad, then they're like new again.

At most, if you like messes, use water on those stones, no need at all to use oil.

Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
 
Joe, how about the oil protecting the surface of the stones and prevent them from becoming glazed or clogged with metal particles from the knife?
Endre
 
Endre,

The stones will become coated in steel particles. When this happens to the extent that they do not seem to be working as well take a damp green scotch pad (does not even need scouring powder although this is optional) and scrub the stone lightly. Rinse, dry and you are back in business. Virtually no chore to do this and keeps your sharpening area dry and clean!

Waldo
 
Endre, which some stones work better with some kind of lubricant others do not. For example I use water on my aluminum oxide stones as otherwise they glaze up fast and are a pain to clean out. I also periodically rinse my diamond stones off when I am honing. The ceramics don't respond well to water and I don't like using oil as it makes a mess and its hard to get off of any stone once you put it on. I would imagine that it wouldn't stick into the ceramic like it would a regular stone though. One thing to consider is that while oil may float metal particles it will also reduce friction between the blade and the stone and thus slow down cutting considerably. I might oil one of my ceramic sticks later on this even and see what happens. Has anyone actually tried this?

-Cliff
 
Thanks for all the replys, I do use my one Brownells Ceramic stone dry, I used oil on it and that was a mess, then I went to water and that worked good, but found that as Joe says, "dry and clean up with an SOS pad was the easiest. Cant wait for the stones! I am anxious to try them out on the Talonite knives.........

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www.simonichknives.com
 
SOS pads work, huh? Woulda thought they'd just add metal to that which you were trying to get off. I've always used a Scotch Brite sponge and scouring powder, cuz it's fast and I'm lazy. Also, since I get paid to do it, time is money. I've always used both ceramics and diamond stones dry. I'll keep a towel handy w/ the diamond stone-an Eze-Lap 62F-to wipe it off as dust builds up. If you push hard on a flexible blade the dust can scratch the edge, which customers don't like. There's just no pleasin' 'em. Also, I'll take the stone and a Scotch Brite pad and scrub it out under running water. Seems to clean it out pretty good.

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Rob,

I use my Spydie 1200 grit ultra fine 8" bench stone on my Talonite Wambli. It's the final polish and touch up to give that razor sharp edge.

I should have given the Wambli a good touch up before I returned it to you so you could see what the Spydie can do, but alas I sent the Wambli back in a used albiet very sharp state for the "dressing up" you're doing to the knife handle.

-==[Bob]==-
 
I've tried oil on the ceramic stones too, and found it added nothing to the sharpening process except making a mess, and apparently reducing the blade/stone friction (lengthening sharpening time). The kind of "glazing" that occurs on some stones doesn't happen on ceramics. Water's okay, but still messy, and similarly doesn't seem to add anything to the sharpening process. It's *so* easy to clean a ceramic stone that it's worth using it dry -- getting maximum friction and minimum mess -- until it begins to fill up, then a few seconds with an SOS pad and it's clean.

Haji -- You may want to look for the thread on the general discussion forum on cleaning ceramic stones. I know it sounds logical that SOS pads should fill the stone back up, but they don't. In fact, SOS pads -- or any steel wool pad with detergent in it -- will not only clean the ceramic stone, but clean it even more efficiently than those plastic scouring pads (I've tried those, too). Go ahead and try it -- other people have, and they all switch over!

Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
 
I always like new info. When I bought my first sharpmaker set a BUNCH of years ago at the Del Mar Fair, the person selling them told me never to use SOS pads because of what Haji said. He was from Spyderco. Now I'm hearing otherwise. I'm going to try it.

I carry all of the Spyderco ceramic bench stones and I have found that the ultrafine stone is great for final polishing and doesn't remove hardly any metal at all. It does leave a really fine edge. Use all of the ceramics dry.

Haji, if you use water with the DMT or other diamond hones they will last longer, and they seem to cut a little better too.

I find that I don't even have to use diamonds unless the knife or tool is fairly dull. Ceramics are usually enough if I use all three grits. I ALWAYS finish with ceramics.

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Thanks for listening!
wrightknife@ixpres.com
 
Greetings Rob. A successful source for the Spydie Benchstones would be www.fe3stone.com
A while back a forum member was able to obtain all 3 grits after calling. They also have a better price for all 3 last time I saw. Their prices include UPS ground to boot!
Good luck.

L8r,
Nakano

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"To earn a million is easy, a real friend is not."
 
Dennis --

You use water on your diamond stones?

Like Haji, I use my diamond stones dry. And like Haji, I keep a towel handy. The dry diamond stones do seem to fill up faster, but a quick swipe with the towel and it cuts well again. Many times I don't have to use the towel at all, but on re-profiling jobs I often have to give it a quick swipe once or twice through the process.

Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
 
Joe

Yeah, I use water. It seems to make the diamond grit last a lot longer and they keep cutting without wiping with a towel. I was told to use water by the person from spyderco selling the diamond sleeves for the sharpmaker at the Del Mar Fair.

It must work because I have had those same sleeves for probably ten years now and they still cut very well. I have used them to re-cut the edges on several Buck knives and some Cold Steel knives too. Its a little messy but I don't fool with success.

DMT also recommends using water on their diamond bench stones.

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Thanks for listening!
wrightknife@ixpres.com
 
Sure thing Rob. The info source was from their last catalog I received. Of course their website may be more updated. So cross your fingers. Happy hunting.

L8r,
Nakano

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"To earn a million is easy, a real friend is not."
 
I just recieved the Medium grit stone from NW Cutlery and it is a beauty! Cuts like crazy, I should have got these long ago.....The instructions say they require no lubricants and say they are dishwasher and autoclave safe. It says to remove metal particle use a powdered abrasive cleaner and a nylon or non-mettalic scouring pad. I think I will just throw mine in the dishwasher......

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www.simonichknives.com
 
This may sound a bit sick, but has anyone ever tried using spit as an alternative lubricant? I tried it once and it seemed to work ok on the arkanas.
 
Hello Rob. I recently returned from thr ECCK Show and found a dealer who carried an extensive line of spyderco products. Please see my thread- "A Day at the ECCK Show" on the Community forums.

He had on display all three benchstones and file sets from Spyderco. Check your e- mail for details. Hope this helps.

L8r,
Nakano

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"To earn a million is easy, a real friend is not."
 
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