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Benchmade, Cold Steel or ZT ?!
- Thread starter OVM
- Start date
I think the XHP is a pretty balanced steel and from tests around the internet it's been proven to hold its own.
Checkout these 2 tests not from Cold Steel. The guy in the first video did same tests with many different kind of steel and from his test the XHP performs really well. Also surprisingly he tested S35VN from ZT0909 twice and both tests performed poorly. Of course this is not 100% scientific, but it should give you a pretty good reference on the perf of different steel from different companies. BTW i dont think he is a CS fan, as he commonly makes fun of CS's triad lock.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7D98zJE1bM&t=1s
The 2nd video show another guy who also test a lot of different steels(including Maxamet from spyderco) and is a freehand sharpening expert. He doing normal cutting task using a Recon 1 tanto and it also performs very well according to him.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTsnCDMH2Cg&t=1s
You can also refer to Jankerson's test on the XHP steel on the Ultimate Hunter. He's a well respected member of the community here and has got some pretty good data. Here is the result from his tests on different steel:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...based-on-Edge-Retention-cutting-5-8-quot-rope
Im not trying to play CS fanboi, but i just feel like there are too many misconceptions about CS making mall-ninja stuff, use crap steel, sharpened prybar, cannot cut & etc. Other than the Triad lock being more painful to open and close, you really get some of the best value for your money. All of the CS models mentioned in this thread has XHP steel and can be had for less than $100 like i mentioned in my earlier post.
Checkout these 2 tests not from Cold Steel. The guy in the first video did same tests with many different kind of steel and from his test the XHP performs really well. Also surprisingly he tested S35VN from ZT0909 twice and both tests performed poorly. Of course this is not 100% scientific, but it should give you a pretty good reference on the perf of different steel from different companies. BTW i dont think he is a CS fan, as he commonly makes fun of CS's triad lock.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7D98zJE1bM&t=1s
The 2nd video show another guy who also test a lot of different steels(including Maxamet from spyderco) and is a freehand sharpening expert. He doing normal cutting task using a Recon 1 tanto and it also performs very well according to him.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTsnCDMH2Cg&t=1s
You can also refer to Jankerson's test on the XHP steel on the Ultimate Hunter. He's a well respected member of the community here and has got some pretty good data. Here is the result from his tests on different steel:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...based-on-Edge-Retention-cutting-5-8-quot-rope
Im not trying to play CS fanboi, but i just feel like there are too many misconceptions about CS making mall-ninja stuff, use crap steel, sharpened prybar, cannot cut & etc. Other than the Triad lock being more painful to open and close, you really get some of the best value for your money. All of the CS models mentioned in this thread has XHP steel and can be had for less than $100 like i mentioned in my earlier post.
After many hours of study about folder knives I decided to make an exception to the budget and to choose between these knives. I thought I need a knife with a blade thickness of at least 0.145 "(3.7 mm) - 0.157" (4 mm)
Mention that the choice will be subject to abuse, meaning that the blade will often be hit with a stick to split thicker branches and fire torches.
If the blade of knife is more thicker that mean it is more resistant ?! or alloy steel is essential of which is made blade?!
My choice for outdoor will be between :
Spyderco MILITARY G10 MODEL BLACK
Spyderco Tatanka G-10 Black Plain Edge Knife, Black
Zero Tolerance 3.6 0095BW Flipper "S35VN Blackwashed Blade, Textured Titanium Handles (Updated Version)
I wait your's advice again.
Mention that the choice will be subject to abuse, meaning that the blade will often be hit with a stick to split thicker branches and fire torches.
If the blade of knife is more thicker that mean it is more resistant ?! or alloy steel is essential of which is made blade?!
My choice for outdoor will be between :
Spyderco MILITARY G10 MODEL BLACK
Spyderco Tatanka G-10 Black Plain Edge Knife, Black
Zero Tolerance 3.6 0095BW Flipper "S35VN Blackwashed Blade, Textured Titanium Handles (Updated Version)
I wait your's advice again.
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Sorry OP, but I go back and say Adamas. That way when/if the abuse/use breaks the lock you can jam something in the axis and still have use of a knife. And their warranty is as good as any for hard use/abuse. Or rethink a small fixed blade like a BK16 maybe...
Since the OP intends to also carry a fixed blade, I cannot see the "need" for batoning and chopping with the folder. For those rough uses I recommend the Recon 1, in spear point. It's a lot of knife for the weight and price. The Adamas comes in second, based mostly on the lock. I don't really trust frame and liner locks for really rough use like that proposed by the original poster.
Were it me, I'd pick a Spyderco Military and use my fixed blade for the rough stuff.
Were it me, I'd pick a Spyderco Military and use my fixed blade for the rough stuff.
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Another vote for Cold Steel, from the Rajah to the Talwar or econ, can't go wrong with a TriAd!
Hey OVM, TBH you cannot go wrong with any of your choice(except Military IMO, if you need a strong tip). Trust me, even a 0.14"(3.5mm) blade would be adequate if it's ground correctly.
I've share this on another thread, and sharing this here again. This is my 7 years old Recon 1, it has traveled with me all over the country and been used for all kind of abuses. Other than normal day to day uses(i.e. cutting stuff), it had been baton-ed, thrown on concrete floors, run over by car(i was young then), stab into ground, reground & etc. Other than minor up & down blade play when gripped hard, it's still locking up like the day i got it.
These are all abuses, and there are no excuses for it, but it shows what it's capable of.
I've share this on another thread, and sharing this here again. This is my 7 years old Recon 1, it has traveled with me all over the country and been used for all kind of abuses. Other than normal day to day uses(i.e. cutting stuff), it had been baton-ed, thrown on concrete floors, run over by car(i was young then), stab into ground, reground & etc. Other than minor up & down blade play when gripped hard, it's still locking up like the day i got it.
These are all abuses, and there are no excuses for it, but it shows what it's capable of.
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Hey OVM, TBH you cannot go wrong with any of your choice(except Military IMO, if you need a strong tip). Trust me, even a 0.14"(3.5mm) blade would be adequate if it's ground correctly.
I've share this on another thread, and sharing this here again. This is my 7 years old Recon 1, it has traveled with me all over the country and been used for all kind of abuses. Other than normal day to day uses(i.e. cutting stuff), it had been baton-ed, thrown on concrete floors, run over by car(i was young then), stab into ground, reground & etc. Other than minor up & down blade play when gripped hard, it's still locking up like the day i got it.
These are all abuses, and there are no excuses for it, but it shows what it's capable of.
Nice knife, every time I see a CS "spanto" I want to buy one and do the mod. I see you also removed the finger grooves in the handle? I like this handle much more.
Yeah good thing about pure g-10 handle is that you can mod it however you want as long as you don't overdo it. In this case a coarse stone and a sand paper was all i needed. I think i overdid mine so the part where you have your index finger on is a bit too narrow. I generally prefer not too have too many grooves in the handle hence i modded it.
Regarding the spanto grind, i recommend buying a cheaper model to do it first. You can use Prolite for it. Here is my spanto mod, it looks much better IMO:
Wow,
After all your comments I chose Cold Steel Recon 1 but which one : Cold Steel 27TXLCC XL Recon 1 Clip Point 5-1/2" CTS-XHP Plain Blade, G10 Handles or Cold Steel 27TLCVF Recon 1 Clip Point 4" CTS-XHP Plain Blade ?! It's your time again.
ps. It is more easy to chose and to buy an expensive fly fishing rod than pocket knife !
After all your comments I chose Cold Steel Recon 1 but which one : Cold Steel 27TXLCC XL Recon 1 Clip Point 5-1/2" CTS-XHP Plain Blade, G10 Handles or Cold Steel 27TLCVF Recon 1 Clip Point 4" CTS-XHP Plain Blade ?! It's your time again.
ps. It is more easy to chose and to buy an expensive fly fishing rod than pocket knife !
I personally wouldn't carry anything longer than 4" so the XL Recon 1 is not for me..
For the blade type, it's really a personal preference depending on what style you like more. If you want strong tip and don't mind not having belly, go with the tanto. The one in my picture is tanto. However i personally prefer either the clip point or the spear point, since they might be more useful for EDC. If you can't decide between the clip point or the spear point, just buy whatever is cheaper. You can't go wrong with either.
Sharing a few more pics of the spear & clip point(hope I dont look like a shill for CS, that's not my intention):
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Hkyew, I did the spanto treatment to a medium Voyager in VG10. I was too conservative and essentially just rounded off the second point. I like the mod you did to the more inexpensive model, maybe I will pick one of those up! Thanks for the inspiration and good work man!
Voyager
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/28393890@N07/14220480627/
Voyager
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/28393890@N07/14220480627/
Hey OVM, TBH you cannot go wrong with any of your choice(except Military IMO, if you need a strong tip). Trust me, even a 0.14"(3.5mm) blade would be adequate if it's ground correctly.
I've share this on another thread, and sharing this here again. This is my 7 years old Recon 1, it has traveled with me all over the country and been used for all kind of abuses. Other than normal day to day uses(i.e. cutting stuff), it had been baton-ed, thrown on concrete floors, run over by car(i was young then), stab into ground, reground & etc. Other than minor up & down blade play when gripped hard, it's still locking up like the day i got it.
These are all abuses, and there are no excuses for it, but it shows what it's capable of.
I love seeing posts like this, just confirms everything i've been trying to tell people for years and years. For the money, it's almost impossible to beat the toughness of CS knives. Now with new models in XHP they are absolutely killing it. Nice mod btw.
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Ok, I have both of these knives. The Recon 1 XL clip point actually has a 5 1/4" full flat grind blade and a fine point. The "regular" Recon 1 clip point has a 4" hollow ground blade with a thicker point. Most people find XL a bit large and heavy for EDC. Both of mine are the latest models with XHP steel. If I could only own one, it would be the "regular" size. The XL is a bit harder to open one handed, but both are smooth and unlock easily. The Tri-Ad lock is the strongest lock on the market.
Despite what haters claim, the fit and finish is great and the DLC coating is beautiful and really tough.
Ok, now the downside. The clips are tight and the checkering is aggressive. There are two options to remedy this. Sand the G10 under the clip or bend the clip outward slightly. To adjust the clip properly, remove it, bend it a little bit at a time (using two pairs of pliers with taped jaws) until you have about a 1/16" gap when pressed flat on the recess of the scale. Screw it back on and you're good to go.
Or you can do a little of both. Very lightly sand the G10 underneath and bend to a 1/32" gap. Personally, I only tweak the clip.