Best axe ever made

I'm not saying that Sager (and Warren Tool) didn't make a very fine axe. But the fact that it was the most popular in the camps may or may not mean they were light years ahead in terms of quality. It doesn't take a magical forging or manufacturing process to make an axe that will hold up day in or day out. Steel in the form of a wedge is perfect for this application if you get the forging and tempering right. If Warren made a good axe of consistent quality, and then did a bang-up job at marketing and distributing that axe right in the logging camps, (which is my understanding of their business model) that is enough in my mind to explain the legendary reputation. Not downing their quality at all, just casting some doubt on the mystique associated with the "Chemical Process" part. That part is mostly marketing IMO.

I do not understand "axis of rotational balance". Fortunately you can use an axe without understanding this concept I think.

As far as lumbermen here, Nova Scotia, one I read a story from said that Spiller's were considered the best. They had used Blenkhorn's up to then, 1910s-1920s, but I don't know if they had access to many other local axes. They must have but the Campbell's XXX is very near the same in proportions to the Spiller.

This man said the Spiller was preferred because of how thin it is. Of course, this is an isolated region, but the Campbell's axes were marketed as being the chosen axes of competitive axemen. Not that these are necessarily the best, but as another poster said, look for what the old axemen used in your area and compare that to a size you need.

For axis of rotation just look at the eye of a double-bit and a single-bit. The double-bit is a perfect oval, and the axis is perfectly in the centre. For a single-bit one side of the oval is cut off and the other extended, essentially, so the axis lies somewhere within this extended part.
 
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I actually happen to own The Best Axe Made In The World :D
 
It's more of the fact that the bit and the handle exist as describing radii of the same arc. The line of the bit should still lie square (or close to depending on preference) to the arc of the stroke. If one were to simply extend the bit along the x axis you'd end up with an overly open hang because the extension of the bit wouldn't be running true along the arc. :)

Isn't it possible to create another problem by bringing the haft too far forward though?

Kind of getting into another discussion on that stuff, so, what are the details on the Kelly Registered? What did they do different with that axe?
 
Another thing to consider is all the subcontracting that went on between tool makers. For instance, if you have the Henry "Collins" book, the list of contract work they took on is pretty staggering. So brand xyz could just be a Kelly, Collins, Mann, etc.... in disguise. I doubt any meaningful answer can be worked out to this question.
 
Isn't it possible to create another problem by bringing the haft too far forward though?

Kind of getting into another discussion on that stuff, so, what are the details on the Kelly Registered? What did they do different with that axe?

As I like to say, "Too much is too much. That's why they call it 'too much.'" :D
 
Apparently the term "axis of rotational balance" denotes a property of an axe that goes into determining "the best axe". I assume that is why the term came up in this thread (not by me). This term does not exist in physics or engineering. Without a logical explanation, I must agreeably disagree that the term has a definition let alone relevance to the best axe. :)

Bob
 
I don't know that physics should have any say on what makes a good axe. . .
Verifiable vs unverifiable, pay your money and take your chances.

"Teacher tries to give lesson by showing effect of an axe on a cinder block, but misjudges swing"

And not even a good axe!
Maybe that is why the teacher missed his mark. :D

I think the term is 'axis of lateral rotation'. I found an image:
That drawing is very clear about what the term "axis of lateral pivot" refers to. However, I've only seen that term associated with Dudley Cook. It's not a term used in any discipline that I could find. I don't have access to the book that drawing came from so I don't know if he goes on to make a logical case of how/why it is significant. I'm a little skeptical, but my mind remains open. :)

Bob
 
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Norlund was just an invented brand to package for hanging displays in sporting goods stores rather than the usual hardware store rack. Nothing wrong with them but they don't really deserve the premium "bay" buyers put on the brand.
 
Apparently the term "axis of rotational balance" denotes a property of an axe that goes into determining "the best axe". I assume that is why the term came up in this thread (not by me). This term does not exist in physics or engineering. Without a logical explanation, I must agreeably disagree that the term has a definition let alone relevance to the best axe. :)

Bob


It mostly has to do with assessing the overall hang and balance. If you were to be assessing, for instance, how the length of the bit affected ease of tracking then you'd need to measure the distance of the edge from the axis of rotational balance rather that from the eye.
 
I inherited a Jersey pattern with a wide, thin bit designed for soft woods. It weighs 3.5lbs. So for a lot of the pine in my area it's ideal. And that's really the thing. My perfect felling axe (this head on a straight, long handle because I'm a big guy with long arms) isn't your perfect felling axe. As long as it's quality and the heat treat is good, pick what works best for you.
 
I think most will tell you the axis of lateral pivot does matter, and that Cook is correct in regards to it. Where people disagree is in where he takes this discussion. If I remember correctly, his main argument surrounding the axis is for the shorter bit. Peaking at the book, this is due to 'wrist-pivot deflection error', which means that a longer bit results in greater cutting errors (less accuracy). But in another chapter he discusses the differences of curved and straight handles, and he is clearly opposed to curved handles as he says they effectively, at best, double the axis of lateral pivot. This would mean that accuracy would be twice as bad with a curved handle.

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This is where people disagree. Some are quite opposed to this theory and say there is no difference. There was quite a long discussion on it, probably easy to find. In my thinking what he says is true, and this is proved in that for the same distance swing the curved-handled axe must be held at an angle which is equal to the fore-section. Or in other words, the curved-handled axe creates the same situation as increasing a straight-handled axe swing by the length of the fore-section. You can test this by comparing your wrist position on both handle-types, your wrist is always turned further back to the same degree as the curve in the handle, which effectively means that you can always get a longer swing for greater accuracy with a straight handle.

This may not seem like much, but in axework accuracy is king. One can quite easily begin doubling their time with missed swings. Of course, the advantage of the curved handle is that you can increase your power due to increased leverage. But if you do not pull the axe back further than you lose this whip advantage.

Note that my argument is one I developed on my own through the curved/straight discussion here on bladeforums. Cook's argument, or at least the one people take issue with, is that the curved handle effectively doubles the wrist-pivot deflection error. Their argument is that turning your wrist does not change the distance on a curved handle compared to a straight handle. But this argument misses the point, as Cook is not discussing intentional wrist deflection, but rather unintentional wrist deflection. And I feel that my discussion of wrist position at the starting point of equal distance swings is good proof of this: for an equal distance swing you are indeed moving your wrist the equivalent of a fore-section further.

Cook also discusses other shortcomings of curved handles, including the necessity of the wood finishing thicker and thereby losing some of the whip advantage of thin straight handles. This would mean that the whip generated from the extra lever in the design first has to make up for what is lost in the handle thickness. It gains only after it has lost in the first place.
 
Although I should state the other side in that a slight change of stance with the curved handle, made possible by end wrist position at the cutting line, allows for a safer foot position while generating more power (angled stance rather than perpendicular).
 
The spinning weight method works, but I find the comparison of two suspension points way easier than having to hang the axe up, spin it, and fiddle with a weight. Just pinch at a point, envision a line straight down from your fingers, and see where it's pointing relative to the axe. Then do another suspension point and see where that line points. Where the lines cross, that's your center of gravity, and any single suspension point will point towards (and naturally pivot around) the axis between the CoG and the grip point.

Cook's main mistakes are that his assertion regarding deviation of the bit is based on supination of the wrist rather than orienting the axe with a twist of the forearm, (which is what is more commonly and easily done due to the comparative weakness of the wrist in that situation) and the fact that he overlooks the ability for the axis of rotational balance to change if the handle isn't aligned in such a way as to have the full length overlaying a single axis (meaning that the single axis found through his method can't be applied to other grip positions along the handle on a "7"-balanced axe.) Now, a bit sitting further forward of the axis will also see a great deal more twisting if you strike a glancing blow from poor alignment with your stroke, and that can beat a fellow up pretty quickly.
 
Barring the lucky find of a serial numbered & warranted top line axe you might look to a Kelly Perfect. Many of them included a hardened poll. For me the hardened poll is part of 'the best axe made'.

I'm also especially fond of Plumb rafting axes with their hardened polls. My waffle-poll Plumb rafting axes are what I consider my best axes.

None of the European import axes have a good high centerline like a vintage American axe. Nothing mass produced today has steel with more than 55 or 60 points of carbon in it. The old Forest Service spec was 72 points carbon and I'd bet most of top shelf axes from 50 years ago met that spec.
 
Barring the lucky find of a serial numbered & warranted top line axe you might look to a Kelly Perfect. Many of them included a hardened poll. For me the hardened poll is part of 'the best axe made'.

I'm also especially fond of Plumb rafting axes with their hardened polls. My waffle-poll Plumb rafting axes are what I consider my best axes.

None of the European import axes have a good high centerline like a vintage American axe. Nothing mass produced today has steel with more than 55 or 60 points of carbon in it. The old Forest Service spec was 72 points carbon and I'd bet most of top shelf axes from 50 years ago met that spec.

Rafting axes are often overlooked (as a matter of fact most folks are unaware of their existence, myself included until a couple of years ago) and these very much expand the overall usefulness of an axe. These are not always obvious to identify but a vinegar soak will certainly help to highlight the poll temper. Square_Peg has an informative forum thread going on these and as a first class tool they're well worth seeking out.
 
Yup. Really wish Council would bring back their Rafting pattern. Wasn't too many years ago that they were still makin' them.
 
Best axe ever made? It's not really important.

A simple True Temper Flint Edge is all the axe you will ever need. Just find one in good shape, sharpen it and hang it. Pick one whose form and weight pleases you.
 
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