Best Corrosion Resistant EDC Steel - 14C28N ?

T

tilopa

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Jan 25, 2013
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I'm moving to Fiji for an extended period and would like to take an EDC folding knife with me. Obviously Fiji is very humid with salty air yet you might be surprised at just how quickly things rust/corrode there. Short of getting a dive knife I want the best corrosion resistive steel for a folding knife. In researching the following steels: 440C, Aus 8, CPM-154, S30V, S35VN, M390 and 14C28N, it seems that the best for corrosion resistant is the 14c28n.

My conclusion comes from my research and some assumptions, and I have very little experience or knowledge about knives so I am asking a question rather than making a statement and hoping some of you with more knowledge can educate me. The reason that I believe the 14c28n is best is because if I look at the composition of all these steels and compare them to the known highly corrosive resistant dive knife metals like H1, N680, X15TN I see a pattern where the Carbon content is low, the Chromium is high and there is a bit of Nitrogen added. The 14c28n has similar properties whereas the other steels do not.

Any input is appreciated.
 
Did you know that the surface finish of the steel can have a very big effect on ultimate corrosion resistance?





Big Mike
 
I don't see VG-10 on your list? I've never had any problems with my spyderco's in VG-10, I love it.
 
I assumed 14C28N would be awesome because of the Nitrogen, but I have a Kershaw Speed Bump that has little rust spots on it, so not so sure. I never carry it, it stays in my bedroom, so it kind of perplexes me. The only other knife I have ever had that has had some small spots is a Tenacious, 8Cr13MoV. My understanding is that AUS8 is similar to 8Cr.
 
Big Mike said:
Did you know that the surface finish of the steel can have a very big effect on ultimate corrosion resistance?





Big Mike
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Yes I did, I heard that bead blasted coatings tend to lend to rusting whereas with a Tungsten DLC coating, like in the Kershaw Blur I am considering, it helps prevent rust. What other coatings are good for preventing rust?
 
Big Mike said:
Did you know that the surface finish of the steel can have a very big effect on ultimate corrosion resistance?
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, the higher the polish on the blade, the more resistant it is to corrosion (excluding the type of steel and talking finish only here). In other words, a satin finish would be more corrosion resistant than say a beadblast finish. On that note, where does a stonewashed or acidwashed finish fit in?


tilopa said:
In researching the following steels: 440C, Aus 8, CPM-154, S30V, S35VN, M390 and 14C28N, it seems that the best for corrosion resistant is the 14c28n.
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All of these steels are going to offer good stain and corrosion resistance, but I'd go with M390 out of all of these myself.
 
I do not know your budget, but if you can find a knife maker who uses talonite/satellite 6k it might be your best bet. It will not rust, and combine that with a titanium or g10 handle and you'll be good to go. This blade material isn't "hard" as far as knife steel is considered, but maintains a great edge. It will be fine for EDC but not ideal for hard use. Jim Harrison of Seamus Knives makes knives like this. It will cost you though.

As far as factory knives go, anything in 440-C is good.
The H-1 steel from Spyderco is pretty good, along with their VG-10 steel.
As far as Benchmade goes, X15TN is pretty good as is 154CM.

I've used H1 steel. It takes a great edge, and holds it fairly well. Corrosion resistance is great.
I've used VG-10 steel. It takes a super edge, and holds it very well. Corrosion resistance is really good too.
I've used 154CM steel. Takes and holds a good edge. I use it daily for everything. The only issue I have is when I cut open salt bags in the winter. If I clean the blade soon after use with water there is never an issue. However I have gotten surface discoloration from direct contact to rock salt. It will clean off with steel wool.

You might also look into Elmax or Vanax. I believe Kershaw uses Elmax, and possibly Vanax. Elmax is very tough and stain resistant. I believe it's superior to S30V. Vanax is not as tough or hard, but as a result offers great corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening.
Hope this helps. Please reply with any questions.
 
H1, x15tn, and n680 are the top three in that order, as far as edge retention, reverse the order. Besides those three the others you mention should all do well, I know m390 is very corrosion resistant as well. If you go with h1 serrated models will be harder at the edge and give you noticeably better edge retention compared to the plain edge.
 
nccole said:
I assumed 14C28N would be awesome because of the Nitrogen, but I have a Kershaw Speed Bump that has little rust spots on it...
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Does you Speed Bump have a bead blasted coating? My understanding is that coating really promotes rusting, in looking at Kershaw's new knives I have not seen any with the bead blasting, I think they figured out that it was not good and changed to DLC coating.
 
M.FREEZE said:
I do not know your budget
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I'd like to stay under $150 but if I saw something really nice I could go up to $200.

M.FREEZE said:
The H-1 steel from Spyderco is pretty good...
As far as Benchmade goes, X15TN is pretty good...
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michaelm466 said:
H1, x15tn, and n680 are the top three in that order
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Yes, all the high end salt water dive knives from Spyderco, Benchmade, etc, use these steels, but I don't want a dive knife, I want a folder, and I need to keep it in my price range. And the knifes I'm looking at from Benchmade, Spyderco, Kershaw, Zero Tolerance, use the steels I have listed in my original post, so I am trying to find the best in that list.
 
Benchmade 581 in M390 with the Coated blade. Fast assissed knife, Axis Lock is great, M390 wow does it hold an edge and the Black DLC finish will seal out any rust on the blade.. One thing to think about is assissed knives have springs in them that will not be made from the same high quality rust free steels and might corrode and lead to early breakage. I would say any of the modern Stainless steel will work fine just wipe em down and keep a bit of minerial oil on them or use a Wax like the Flitz metal wax to seal up the blade. just stay away from Bead-blasted type finishes. ive used my Strider SMF in S35vn to open about 300 bags of Snow and ice salt this winter so far and not a spot of rust. All I do is rub some nose grease from my finger on the blade and its good to go.
 
Ha, I thought I was the only one to use sebum (nose grease) to protect my knives. Got the idea from an air gun forum, where an individual stated that he uses it to lube the bolt on his air gun. It has worked well on my EDC BRKT pro scalpel II (52100) for the last year.
 
deep swampy south, wet all the time and 14c28n bead blast rusts very quickly in a sweaty pocket. Regardless of steel type, higher polish does better in my experience. I like elmax myself and of course h1.

Granted it just depends on how wet its gonna get. Here you spend an hour in the swamp you are wet like someone hosed you down. In cooler, drier places my knives don't get wet enough and don't rust. All relative. Id rather carry an h1 knife than an oily rag and worry about rinsing and keeping dry, but that's me. Too each their own.
 
I am a diver and have used a Gerber River Shorty because it is cheap as my primary dive knife (Hawaii, Fl. Keys, Mexico) for years and it does not have a speck of rust. It is mirror polished and as long as I dry it out after dives there in no oxidation on the cheap (presumably) metal.

Now I realize you do not want a dive knife but I would still highly recommend something like the Spyderco Pacific Salt or Salt I with the black handles as an edc in that type of environment. I have used a Salt I as a backup dive knife and I treat it like crap. Don't open it to dry after saltwater dives and only rinse it occasionally. Not a speck on it. H1 has kept a good edge for me and I can't imagine a better folder for that type of environment.

My brother lived in Hawaii for years and always complained of everything oxidizing, even his silverware. I would go with the most rust resistant steel I could find. If you really are against H1, AUS-8 seems to be the most popular steel for nicer dive knives that are not completely rust resistant but still serviceable.
 
I love my H1 Spyderco folders. I wear it mountain biking and it is always sweaty and wet. I never clean it and still no rust. Another good one that has been mentioned is Elmax. My favorite steel overall. Great corrsion resistance, tough, and keeps a nice edge.
 
tilopa said:
Does you Speed Bump have a bead blasted coating? My understanding is that coating really promotes rusting, in looking at Kershaw's new knives I have not seen any with the bead blasting, I think they figured out that it was not good and changed to DLC coating.
Click to expand...

Not sure, bet you are right though.
 
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