Best Corrosion Resistant EDC Steel - 14C28N ?

For those that don't believe me dip your carbon steel knife with a DLC coating into some salt water and sit out over night. I have had my DLC coated M4 'grow' rust right through the coating. Very strange looking but it wiped right off. I don't know how much damage was done underneath and if it weakened the coating in that spot?

It may help with corrosion resistance but it certainly doesn't stop it like some other coatings will. I know it will rust because I've seen it with my own eyes. If you don't believe me prove it to yourself or prove me wrong. I don't have pictures but I will look at the NIB knives it happened to and see if it might have happened again and provide pics if it has.
 
Quite on the point: care of working tools.

the nonsensical thing about coatings as corrosion resistance is that they do not protect the only thing that can be immediately affected by corrosion: the edge.

a few corrosion spots on the side of the blade from a day or two of no care do not hurt a thing. However the edge dulling because of corrosion obviously affects immediate performance. Granted a quick stropping will fix it right up.

Vikings crossed the seas in small ships and they somehow managed to keep their simple carbon steels from disintegrating...
 
I'm with you: I had an insanely expensive Japanes folding knife DLC coated that did the same (ZDP189 nevermore in my life).
 
+1

dlc'd 1080 doesn't rust, while 1080 rusts like crazy just being exposed to air.


just my personal experiences but anything Ive used so far doesn't rust when dlc is applied. I could be not using it in extreme enough conditions, but Ive never seen it on my dlc blades.

I would like to see more information and maybe a video/pictures of someone's knife that is dlc'd with rust...............I can be convinced :D

For those that don't believe me dip your carbon steel knife with a DLC coating into some salt water and sit out over night. I have had my DLC coated M4 'grow' rust right through the coating. Very strange looking but it wiped right off. I don't know how much damage was done underneath and if it weakened the coating in that spot?

It may help with corrosion resistance but it certainly doesn't stop it like some other coatings will. I know it will rust because I've seen it with my own eyes. If you don't believe me prove it to yourself or prove me wrong. I don't have pictures but I will look at the NIB knives it happened to and see if it might have happened again and provide pics if it has.

I wasn't calling you out merely saying that dlc does make oxidization of steel (rust) wayyyyyyyyy less prone to happening.

also, I bolded the key parts to my statement that seems to be overlooked.

In extreme conditions yes anything except h1, vanax, and other rust proof steels will rust. tis the nature of the beast.....

"stainless steels" are more resistant to corrosion but still rust if not maintained.

Now with high carbon steels, dlc works quite well with preventing rust as long as the blade is cleaned before storage. i find un-coated 1080 will rust with exposure to air alone, while dlc'd 1080 will last (without rust) as long as its maintained.


Hell even h1's logos show corrosion after being exposed to salt water.

anyways dlc is not rust proof by any means but without cleaning it will rust eventually.
 
I live on the Texas Gulf Coast, near Galveston. I fish a LOT in salt water. My go to knife is a Spyderco Pacific Salt with H1 steel. I have wade fished in the salt water with that knife in my shorts pocket. NO RUST, EVER! I have found no other knife steel that can compare for rust resistance. I have used knives in the other steels the OP sited, and none compare to H1 for rust resistance. However, another steel I'm rapidly becoming fond of is Elmax. I have a 551 and a 561 from ZT in Elmax. I've been using them on my fishing trips recently. Yesterday, for instance, I cleaned a nice haul of large sheep head with the 561, using it to cut through the tough scales, skin, and bones. The Elmax did a great job of cutting duty on the fish, as well as my cutting jobs on the boat. All I generally do for care is rinse it off with fresh water at the end of the day and dry it good. So far, no issues with rust. At the end of the month I will take the 561 apart for a good cleaning, and lube the bearings. The Elmax did extremely well on the fish skin, scales and bones. Anyone who has caught large sheep heads knows what a tough job that can be for a knife. The blade showed no signs of wear at all afterward, and still has a great working edge. Which, btw, is even after skinning and cleaning two aoudad sheep that I and a partner took in late April. Like I said, I'm rapidly becoming a fan of Elmax.
 
Well the knife that rusted on me was in a plastic bag, in a box, in a climate controlled room. Hardly extreme conditions. And it was M4 which I haven't had much problem with rust on users. The only reason I mentioned salt water is because it speeds up corrosion and would prove rust can happen with a DLC coating. I have other coatings I'm certain would not allow any rust to occur where the coating is intact with the same saltwater treatment.
 
No, I'm not and even

Tough I admit Nitrobe 77 will be pretty much corrosion resistant (and lets just throw Yushu in the number), you're missing something IMHO.

C 0.1 V 0.1 Cr 14.5 Mo 3 N 0.90 Nb 0.50 this is Nitrobe 77
C 0.2 V 2.8 Cr 20 Mo 2.50 N 1.90 this is Vanax

Add this

There is simply NO WAY Nitrobe 77 will have same corrosion resistance. Vanax has 5.5% more Cr and more than double N (with N/C ratio being roughly the same for both steels). All Cr in Vanax is left free in solid solution (with mentioned HT), would it be the same (all Cr in solid solution) for Nitrobe 77 it would be far lesser anyway.
There is no way Nitrobe 77 could ever have the same edge holding as well, having such a poor a content of V and Nb that it definitely won't form as much as harder phase MN nitrides than Vanax if any. More probably will have 5% or alike softer M2N nitrides.
Same is valid for H1, N680, 14C28N and fellows.
I suspect that even Des knows this ;)

In the link are mentioned Vanax 75 and Vanax 35. The first has been retired from Bohler, but Kershaw made an L.E. knife with a composite blade where the cutting edge was made out of Vanax 75 ;)
Here I'm comparing Latrobe 77 and Vanax 35 which now is Vanax.

My legs are not pulled mate they've just to follow my head, which is insanely prone to being ahead (not ahead of your own) as Elliot Williamson knows :) Maybe he hates me for that...

And yet mate, H-1 has had no reports of pitting, corrosion (except residual on the H-1 logo) Nitrobe 77 was developed for the use as a blade and be very corrosion resistant.

The amount of V in Nitrobe is actually there for grain refinement. Not as a carbide former as in Vanax. Nitrobe is also not marketed as a wear resistant steel but as a high strength steel.

Edge retention as you know depends on a few things as well and that has been argued a lot. You get people that want high wear resistant steels and those that don't. Depends on the individual and skill when sharpening to get the best performance for their needs.

So once again we have the same case of: all good just different.
 
Spyderco H-1 is the way to go. Many models to choose from, fixed and folding. While not the best at edge retention, it is quite good and reputed to be easy enough to sharpen. And, topping it all off, it is not terribly expensive. The Salt series is what I plan to go to sooner or later (when I buy my boat for sure).
 
BM Landslide is a real nice little knife w/n680 and around $50,with the left over cash you can get a Spyderco w/H1 .
 
Do you mean "toughness" by "high strength" ?
Lets address this concept: N hardening brings about finer grain structure than C hardening, this is universally agreed.
Moreover: this steel has roughly the same composition of CPM154/RWL34 with 1% less Mo and 0.5Nb and N as main hardening element.
Toughness will be more than these two steels also because M7C3 Cr carbides will be absent, these not properly fine grained Cr carbides lead the way to chipping and less toughness. Nitrobe will have finer Moly M2N nitrides instead.
Tipically austenitized at 1050°C and tempered at 200°C will give 58HRC, yet, staying within the N based steels, I suspect INFI will outperform Nitrobe by a great margin when at same hardness (though admittedly not as stain resistant).
Now, will it be Elmax at 59HRC more or less tough? It will have finer grained V MN nitrides so I guess it will be a tie.

Stain resistance: I've already demonstrated why Nitrobe will be left behind.

Edge holding.
Nitrobe and Vanax are very costy. Both. And they really belong to custom realm.
If I were to spend >600USD in a fixed knife and >800USD in a folding, with same toughness, same HRC, lets say (it is not so) same stain resistance, yet with one steel clearly overtaking as far as edge holding is concerned, I'd go with this steel.
And, BTW, edge retention means comparing two blades with same finishing grade and same geometry in two different steels having comparable hardness and comparable toughness.
I usually trek/hunt in heavily humid/salted environments and taking a rifle a backup handgun and their ammunitions, comprehensive first aid kit, food, cooking hardware, Hennessy Hammock, air mattress, sleeping bag....and thus a 20-25KG backpack,I'd really appreciate my knife to chop, cut meat, skin a game and still cut without need to resharpen.
If it needs touch ups no issue. I have a green 4" DMT at hand.
But then, having time for that touch ups, JMAW taking care of a more tough more edge holding CPM-3V/Vanadis 4E blade, with a silicon rag.



And yet mate, H-1 has had no reports of pitting, corrosion (except residual on the H-1 logo) Nitrobe 77 was developed for the use as a blade and be very corrosion resistant.

The amount of V in Nitrobe is actually there for grain refinement. Not as a carbide former as in Vanax. Nitrobe is also not marketed as a wear resistant steel but as a high strength steel.

Edge retention as you know depends on a few things as well and that has been argued a lot. You get people that want high wear resistant steels and those that don't. Depends on the individual and skill when sharpening to get the best performance for their needs.

So once again we have the same case of: all good just different.
 
Do you mean "toughness" by "high strength" ?
Lets address this concept: N hardening brings about finer grain structure than C hardening, this is universally agreed.
Moreover: this steel has roughly the same composition of CPM154/RWL34 with 1% less Mo and 0.5Nb and N as main hardening element.
Toughness will be more than these two steels also because M7C3 Cr carbides will be absent, these not properly fine grained Cr carbides lead the way to chipping and less toughness.

Nitrobe will have finer Moly M2N nitrides instead

That affects the micro structure how? Will it have the M7C3 Carbides? How much Cr will be left in solution? What about the 9 vol-%, of type MN in a tempered martensitic matrix with approx. 10 vol-% retained austenite in Vanax?.

Tipically austenitized at 1050°C and tempered at 200°C will give 58HRC, yet, staying within the N based steels, I suspect INFI will outperform Nitrobe by a great margin when at same hardness (though admittedly not as stain resistant)

INFI compared to Vanax?.

Now, will it be Elmax at 59HRC more or less tough? It will have finer grained V MN nitrides so I guess it will be a tie.

Isn't Elmax similar to S60V? To my knowledge Elmax has more M7C3 Carbides then Nitrobe/H-1/N680 or INFI.

Red was used to keep track of my questions while typing response

What I like about Nitrobe is that it was a steel developed as a blade steel. Vanax I believe was a plastic mould steel initially much like S90V/M390 and then with refinement application it can be used for knives. Thanks Bohler, Crucible and others for that :thumbup: as we have steels now with very high wear resistance for people that want that.

nitrobe77a.jpg


Stain resistance: I've already demonstrated why Nitrobe will be left behind.

Since Nitrobe and H-1 are very corrosion resistant already and no one has had a problem with H-1, as I stated before, how inferior is Nitrobe and H-1 in your opinion to Vanax?

Edge holding.
Nitrobe and Vanax are very costy. Both. And they really belong to custom realm.
If I were to spend >600USD in a fixed knife and >800USD in a folding, with same toughness, same HRC, lets say (it is not so) same stain resistance, yet with one steel clearly overtaking as far as edge holding is concerned, I'd go with this steel.
And, BTW, edge retention means comparing two blades with same finishing grade and same geometry in two different steels having comparable hardness and comparable toughness.
I usually trek/hunt in heavily humid/salted environments and taking a rifle a backup handgun and their ammunitions, comprehensive first aid kit, food, cooking hardware, Hennessy Hammock, air mattress, sleeping bag....and thus a 20-25KG backpack,I'd really appreciate my knife to chop, cut meat, skin a game and still cut without need to resharpen. If it needs touch ups no issue. I have a green 4" DMT at hand.
But then, having time for that touch ups, JMAW taking care of a more tough more edge holding CPM-3V/Vanadis 4E blade, with a silicon rag.

What is JMAW?
 
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For those that don't believe me dip your carbon steel knife with a DLC coating into some salt water and sit out over night. I have had my DLC coated M4 'grow' rust right through the coating. Very strange looking but it wiped right off. I don't know how much damage was done underneath and if it weakened the coating in that spot?

I'm just curious. Is there any chance that it could have been dust or tiny powder particles on the surface from a sharpening stone , or some other contamination too small for the eye to see but imbedded or just sitting in the surface of the DLC coating?

Even really stainless steels like H1 or Titanium can oxidize like this if a stone or tool used for something less stainless is used. IIRC, Mete was talking about this in a production setting and how it starts with the contamination but can then cause the stainless to keep oxidizing. He certainly says it better in other posts in other threads. example:

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Rust spots ?? Serious SS work requires the SS to be free of contaminents !! Machinig, grinding, filing etc of non-stainless will deposit iron on the SS.These can rust and the rust continue into the SS !! Serious work then requires separate tools etc for SS and carbon steel .For example a grinding wheel will pick up Carbon steel and contaminate the SS. In addition post operation proceedure is to "passivate" the SS. this is cleaning the SS by removing all foreign material with an acid.

Just throwing it out. I know I was warned not to use stones on my Mission Ti blades used on anything except them. They should have their own sharpeners in other words. The non magnetic properties of The Mission blades are ruined by using contaminated stones as well. Different, but similar idea of what can be happening on your DLC coating.

Joe
 
Spyderco Pacific Salt in H1 works well for me. Edge retention isn't that great so I'm looking to try the fully serrated model as well.

00EDED10-FFBF-406A-9B1D-A2670402F2F6-9579-0000047B2F424371_zps3f222f6d.jpg
 
Best and quickest \ cheapest option is the Spyderco H-1

I have several and for many years it has been my EDCs in place like Cape Town and the Mozambique coast.

Never experienced problems and I converted others to H-1 as well.:D

It is also the EDC of choice for my boys, aged 12 & 13. No "maintenance" other than the touching up of the blade and for them, the yellow handles show it is a tool, not a "weapon" and they don't lose it.

So if a folder can pass the "kiddie" test it - should be fine as EDC tool;)
 
Both Nitrobe and Vanax won't ever have Carbides of any kind, just nitrides. M2N nitrides or MN nitrides, but nitrides.

From the link i posted above
"The microstructure and hardness in the hardened and tempered condition for the steels are shown in Fig. 2.
All grades have a tempered martensitic matrix with various amount and type of hard phases. The size of
the hard phase particles is around 50% bigger in carbon based PM steels compared with MN particles in
the nitrogen alloyed PM grades.
In absolute values an average size of the MN particles is around 0,7 μm in
the heat treated condition. The conventionally ingot manufactured grade, AISI D2 and AISI 440B/C, may
have maximum carbide sizes up to 100-200 μm depending of ingot size and hot working reduction."


Please, read that very informative document, as it contains also very useful info for steels other than nitrogen ones.

JMAW is Just Might As Well.

Elmax has been mentioned by me as it is an exception under many aspects, in the non nitrogen based highly alloyed stainless steels. It has a very high content of Cr M7C3 carbides, a very high amount of carbon, Cr content is no candy either. You would expect SEVERE chipping problems, even more severe than in S30V. Right?
Wrong, as their PM process has done the miracle (very clean and very uniform structure): this is the only stainless steel that using secondary hardness reaches 43J@63HRC. Thus no chipping issue. It is the value CPM-M4 @62.5 reaches, but without added benefit of stain resistance.
Yet using the HT mentioned in the document, with deep cryo, you would have quite more stain resistance, with a 40J value, roughly as stain resistant as 440C yet with the double the edge retention. Many production makers have got the point and a Kershaw Speedform II will be the clear example of an EDC at affordable prices, made out of Elmax and with more than decent stain resistance, excellent toughness (comparable or Greater than many tool steels).
S60V is quite another story than Elmax. Taken at 60HRC it was chipping. Thus the general consensus switched to a ridicolous 56HRC value. A that point edge rolling, gummy edge and alike made Crucible think that a new steel should have been introduced. That was CPM 420V AKA CPM S90V. When properly heat treated even without being a toughness champion it performed better. Yet it was a pain to HT and grind and sharpen.
So CPM S30V was thrown out, for better workability and toughness, with all makers agreeing on the 58-60 range (not Chris Reeve). This proved to be underhardening and thus gummy edge, edge rolling... Crucible came out with CPM-154 and S35VN, which again were not a quantum leap forward their predecessors and S110V, which can be a very good steel, but with very limited toughness that will limit its using environment.
Notably, about S90V it is Worth mentioning the opinion of Elliot Williamson, reknown custom maker and friend of mine:
"S90V is finally getting a little more use in the custom knife world and with some good reason. It does make very good knives that hold edges very well. It does have a reputation for micro-chipping like it's little brother S30V and I have seen this now in some of the knives I've used this steel in. I haven't had happen to me during any testing, but those are tests and not real world use. The culprit in this micro-chipping issue is most likely because most knife makers use a standard tempering heat treatment which converts retained Austenite to Cementite in the Martensite plate boundaries, which is pretty normal, but because it has some much carbon you are getting too much Pearlite in the Cementite and it has too low a bond potential to resist shears that would not be an issue in steels with less carbon. I think the fix is going to be using a the secondary hardening phase and let that over saturation of carbon get locked up in carbides and thus increase the bond potential in the plate boundaries."
Roughly said 1180°C (2155°F) + 450°C (842°F)/2x2h with 60HRC, 11.4% Cr in solid solution.
As a comparison Elmax 1080°C (1975°F) + 200°C (392°F)/2x2h 59 HRC (Deep cryo adds 1-2HRC), 12% Cr in solid solution.

I have no such data for M390, another steel cited here by other mates. but has less toughness than Elmax (it should be in the 35J range), requires more attention (nu foil and other) and care in HT and slightly higher austenitizing and tempering temperature. I.e.: 1150°C/200°C-260°C per Bohler data (60-62HRC with mandatory sub-zero treatment).
I can make an educated guess that it will have 13% Cr in solid solution with this HT and 4-5% V based MC type carbides.

I've had corrosion issues with H-1 in the environment I mentioned above. I had with 14C28N, N680, Niolox as well.
Nitrobe 77 and Vanax just belong to another level, with the latter holding an advantage in anything but toughness.

Thanks for the HT table for Nitrobe 77 :thumbsup:
But it requires insanely complicated HT. With very high austenitizing/tempering temps. Do a cross check with the specs for Vanax in the above mentioned link.
My understanding is that to overcome less than optimal (for knife use) edge holding, the HT has been tuned to increase hardness. IMHO this way the amount of Cr in solid solution is not maximized, deteriorating both corrosion resistance and toughness. Probably 1050°C/deep cryo/200°Cx2 2hrs each would be better, loosing a couple of HRC points.

Finally.
I mentioned some carbon steels as well.
Limiting to one of them, CPM-3V is a very cleverly engineered steel. If kept 57-59HRC all of Cr and Moly will be used to stain resistance purpose because there will be only V MC carbides (5%). Making reference to the link I posted, if D2 has a PRE value of 8, having 3V 7.5%Cr and 1.3%Mo and given that "The PRE number is
the sum in weight percent of the following elements in solid solution Cr+3,3Mo+16N"
, the PRE number for CPM-3V should be (7.5+(3*1.3))=10.4. Higher than D2 which is considered as being semi-stainless and thus we could fairly use CPM-3V for tasks where extreme toughness and very good edge holding are the requisites, with decent stain resistance. In my experience I've seen ZDP189, ATS34, CM154 and 440C staining before CPM-3V, given the same level of finishing and without any coating or manteinance.

I hope to have answered all of your questions.

You're right about the origin of Nitrobe and Vanax. Also S30V has been created for knives, but we know that it ain't properly the best choice out there ;)

And agreed about the gratefulness we owe to Crucible, Bohler, and all of the steel makers that allowed all of that to all us knifenuts.
 
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I'm just curious. Is there any chance that it could have been dust or tiny powder particles on the surface from a sharpening stone , or some other contamination too small for the eye to see but imbedded or just sitting in the surface of the DLC coating?

Even really stainless steels like H1 or Titanium can oxidize like this if a stone or tool used for something less stainless is used. IIRC, Mete was talking about this in a production setting and how it starts with the contamination but can then cause the stainless to keep oxidizing. He certainly says it better in other posts in other threads. example:



Just throwing it out. I know I was warned not to use stones on my Mission Ti blades used on anything except them. They should have their own sharpeners in other words. The non magnetic properties of The Mission blades are ruined by using contaminated stones as well. Different, but similar idea of what can be happening on your DLC coating.

Joe


I guess anything is possible but this happened as it came from the factory. The only thing I left on the blade were some finger prints. I also had other people say they had the same thing happen. It has been a couple years ago but I will try to find the thread.

The knives were fine when I got them and inspected them. A couple months later it appeared rust was forming right on the coating but a simple wipe took it off. When I researched it I couldn't find anyone claiming it provided corrosion resistance. I would have thought that would have been one of the main reasons for a coating and if it did help everyone would be claiming so. I couldn't find it then but it appears a few companies are claiming it helps with corrosion prevention but doesn't stop it. I'm going to pull my knives out and see if it might have come back though I doubt it because I oiled the blades good.

Edit: I couldn't find the thread I was talking about but here is a different one with a few people saying the same thing including a moderator and a guy saying his S30V with DLC gets rust.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-DLC-finish-in-regards-to-rust-and-longevity?
 
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@ daberti

I miss interpreted a few things in your earlier post so thanks for taking the time to explain.

Just an FYI. Nitrobe 77 will be out of production. Some stock is still available at this stage.
 
An H1 spyderco folder is the best IMHO. I have one in my BCD(dive equipment) and it is frequently submerged in both salt and chlorinated water. No corrosion whatsoever. Only the laser etched logo will show some discoloration, but this can be wiped away.
If you need a completely rust free folder get a Spyderco in H1
 
I guess anything is possible but this happened as it came from the factory.

Anything is possible I suppose but you know that in this case it wasn't something you did re: above scenario. I always try to problem solve by ruling out the simple , most obvious reasons first and moving on up to the next. Problem solving 101.

Knowing what it isn't does help.

The only similar situation I've had of a factory knife getting to me and rusting before use was a Strider Custom and someone had left a fingerprint on the steel and it was a very rusty steel ( Rex 20/M62). One fingerprint overnight became permanent. The best I could do was stop the rust. Wait until it was needing work and get it reblasted then.

I've seen that fingerprint thing happen on old blued revolvers but nothing like what you describe on a coating designed to prevent rust. :)

Joe
 
You're welcome Marthinus.
I've just sent an email to you :)

@ daberti

I miss interpreted a few things in your earlier post so thanks for taking the time to explain.

Just an FYI. Nitrobe 77 will be out of production. Some stock is still available at this stage.
 
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