Best corrosion retardant

Buffalohump

Buffalohump

Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
6,214
Hey guys,

I've got one knife in 0-1 and another one on the way. Its a great steel but we've got humidity up the wazoo out here so I live in fear of corrosion.

So far the best thing I've found to prevent corrosion is to clean the knife after use (obviously) and then polish it with FLITZ metal polish.

Anyone got anything better than that? Rust never sleeps!
 
Personally, I have found Eezox to work the best for me. Second on my list would be Breakfree CLP. I think some folks here really like the Sentry Tuf Cloth and Tuf Glide, which I've never used.

Have you ever seen this test? It confirmed the above for me after years of use of both. http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
 
Hey,

Thanks for the link! Thats an interesting test...

I have Break Free, WD-40, B-C Sheath, Tuf-Glide (cloth and liquid). Tried 'em all! I mostly use Break Free for lubing though. The Tuf-Cloth I have is the Marine version, supposedly for salty/humid environments.

I find that polishing the knife every so often really helps get the anti-rust stuff to bind with the steel.

Hence my fondness for Flitz. Plus I find the more you polish a knife, the less chance there is of rust starting up.

The same reason bead blasted blades are the worst for rust - because of the rough texture.
 
Buffalohump said:
Hey, thanks! That's very useful. That Boeing one looks good. WD-40 did pretty good as well! Does nobody here use FLITZ?
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I've used Flitz for polishing, but never really gave it much thought as a rust preventative. I may have to give it a try.
 
It can also be used to remove rust very successfully, but when you polish the knife with it, it leaves a layer behind that prevents it starting up.

Of course, if you use the knife and clean it, you have to reapply.

The good thing is a little goes a long way!
 
WD-40 and CLP have more cleaning properties than lube and neither last very long compared to other options. I use Kroil on my firearms. It's a very light weight machine oil and adheres to the fine pours of the metal for a long time.
 
Buffalohump said:
Hey guys,

I've got one knife in 0-1 and another one on the way. Its a great steel but we've got humidity up the wazoo out here so I live in fear of corrosion.

So far the best thing I've found to prevent corrosion is to clean the knife after use (obviously) and then polish it with FLITZ metal polish.

Anyone got anything better than that? Rust never sleeps!
Click to expand...


Try Corrosion X ..best stuff out there ..I use it sparringly..it is used on Aircraft but safe for guns ,knives Etc...Look it up....Great stuff but if you pick some up use it very lightly... and I would not use it on blades that will be for food prep...
http://www.corrosionx.com/products.html
 
Let it patina, keep it dry.

I use my carbon Mora for fishing/cleaning fish a lot, fresh and salt water, and have never had a problem with rust. It is a nice dark gray color though.

Don't worry about it so much, rust is practically a non-issue unless you store it in a salt water bath. And, if it does rust, a quick scrub with steel wool gets rid of it, or just a quick sharpening.
 
Ren Wax. But good quality car wax will work as well.

Wax protects your car doesn't it? Notice how water beads up on a waxed surface?
 
CWL said:
Ren Wax. But good quality car wax will work as well.

Wax protects your car doesn't it? Notice how water beads up on a waxed surface?
Click to expand...

But most car waxes are formulated for painted surfaces which aren't prone to rust to start with.
 
All good suggestions. Any oil will work. Bottom line, keep it dry. If it gets used regularly, rust shouldn't be a problem.
Scott
 
I talked about this with one of my teachers, a corrosion expert.

Blueing with something containing SiO2 is good. the Fe3O4 formed will slow the "bad" rust down, but also, as opposed to a simple patina, it will be better to prevent corrosion caused by wear.

Ok, that class was tough and I have hard time translating it in English, but trust me (well, him) on that one.

Most important is to keep the blade clean, make sure it's dry before sheating it.
 
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