Best corrosion retardant

I have had good luck with Marine Tuf Cloth, but a patina is not the worst thing in the world. I have carbon steel knives from WWII that still cut fine. Here is my Ratmandu in 52100 steel with a patina.

patina004.jpg
 
I use Ballistol because then I don't have to worry so much about toxicity or damaging any wood surfaces that are adjacent to the steel. But corrosion is practically a non-problem where I live. A couple of days ago our humidity was 9%. :eek:
 
I don't just have humidity to worry about, I also have quite acidic sweat (I kill leather watchbands quick) so I'm pretty paranoid about rust.

Unfortunately, I don't always catch it early enough and pitting is the result, not just a patina. I also collect the little packets of silica gel, which are meant to suck the moisture out of the air, and throw those into the drawer where I keep (some of) my steel.
 
I have followed a lot of threads dealing with corrosion on the knife forum. There seems to be a unreasonable fear that you are going to pull your knife out of the sheath and it is going to crumble to a pile of iron oxide. Corrosion, rusting are other names for oxidation. ( the chemical definition of oxidation deals with the movement of electrons so it deals with other elements besides oxygen) If you use iron alloys in a knife it will oxidize. ( stainless is not, it will oxidize less) Oxygen being a component of the atmosphere will react with iron immediately. This is a natural process. Using a lubricant, wax, or grease protects the surface of the iron from the effects of oxidation. "Patina" is a nice name for the chemical reaction that discolors the surface of the knife. If you skin a deer, cut a lemon you will have a "Chemical reaction" with the metal. At times this reaction can be very fast and will cause a coating to form on the metal. (look at other metals like copper in weather vanes, green patina; old silver coins or tableware, black patina) In some metals such as aluminum the oxide (aluminum oxide) protects the metal from further degradation. Guns are blued, parkerized and coated to protect the metal. These processes are controled oxidation of the surface. If you use your knife it will be exposed to various compounds that will cause surface reactions. Just think of the various chemical compounds your blade will come in contact with when you chop various woods, plants, skin game, filet fish ( sentry removal for you guys in Practical Tactical), prepare food and so on. If you use a knife then expect oxidation. Usually this process is very slow. Only concentrated acids will attack metal immediately.
So what can you do to prevent it? First clean your knife after each use. Water will remove most compounds. Dry your knife completely. Never put it into a sheath wet. Protect the surface of the blade. A light coat of oil, silicone, wax, (leaves a protective coating) will all prevent this. If you store a knife do all of the above, keep it out of the sheath and wrap it in protective paper and keep it in a warm dry environment. Condensation will form on metal warming and cooling. Fingerprints also leave residue that can cause problems, so wipe them off with your silicone cloth. All my knives are users so I look at patina, nicks, scratches, rust spots as a history of my use of that knife, like badges of honor. My oldest "good" knife" is a 40 year old Randall 12 Sportsman's Bowie. It is used and not abused. I don't plan to sell it and it is probably worth half of what a "mint" knife is worth. I didn't buy it for an investment. I bought it for use.
 
I think zman said it the best.

Your knife isn't going to disintegrate into a pile of rust in your lifetime, even if you dropped it to the bottom of the ocean.

When I was younger, my favorite knives were the old, black, rusted ones found at garage sales. I could put a screaming edge on them withing minutes, and the rust and pitting didn't effect there ability to do there jobs in any way.

So, don't be paranoid.

Of course it is your knife, do what you will, but to me some patina and pitting shows that the knife has actually been used.
 
Clean the blade, then use 30 weight motor oil. Wipe off the excess, then use a thin coat of wd-40 a couple of days later. Use a good silicone lubricant on a monthly basis after that and you should be (God willing) in better shape to handle the rust that never takes a coffee break or slumbers. I have some pals who report that using olive oil works as well as anything on the market, but I can't validate that claim.
 
My uncle had a Nazi chromed parade bayonet that he liberated during WWII. He kept it wraped in an fmotor oil soaked cotton cloth. He would pull it out when we visited and it was still in mint condition. It seemed not to affect the bakelite handle. I am not recommending this but we have better lubricants and protectants now then they did 60 years ago. Rust turns into pitting when it is not controlled. So be proactive not reactive. If you go to a museum that has historical weapons, some centuries old, you can still see edged weapons in excellent conditon. Metal will last for centuries if protected. Even cannon and swords found on sunken ships in saltwater 400 years are still recognizeable.
 
I use Ren Wax on the knife from the hilt back to the end of the handle which protects the exposed tang from corrosion; and the wood scales from wetting out. If used ofr food prep I clean the blade off with a wipe of a cloth before use. I apply a light coat of Ren Wax to the blade after cleaning.
 
Stick your knives in a potato overnight (as many as it takes to cover the blade) and when you pull it out youll have a beautifull dark grey patina wich wont rust easily. Potatoes work better than onions IMHO, sometimes onions make the blade almost black.
 
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