Best Double Bit

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300Six said:
Quite curious about the disparaging remarks regarding Ox head dbl bits. I was kinda thinking any old forge or factory with access to soup cans and a few leaf springs can make overly thick and clumsy implements but it takes skill to make something thin as possible and yet durable. The featured double bit, that was headed back to the store, is advertised for competition purposes (at least the Lee Valley ones are) and I would think a skilled and highly motivated 'chopper' wants the thinnest blade and cheeks he can come up with.
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The Oxhead double bit is used in axe throwing competitions. I'm not aware of any chopping competitions that something like that would normally be used in. Also, if you look at racing axes, they do have a very fine edge but they have some serious meat behind that. They get thicker very quickly for three primary reasons as I see it: 1) to pop the wood chips out of the kerf, 2) to reduce binding, and 3) to add weight.
 
I would say that my single bit is not the best for serious chopping/felling. There is such a thing as too much penetration, especially in green soft woods. It is akin to the Gransfors Scandi Forest Axe in usage, really, but with a broader bit, and yeah, the handle is a little chunky.

A thin blade is good, but I would have liked more steel in the center of the bit, starting about 2 inches from the bit, to add a little weight to the head. That would make it an ok felling axe.
 
M3mphis said:
The Oxhead double bit is used in axe throwing competitions. I'm not aware of any chopping competitions that something like that would normally be used in. Also, if you look at racing axes, they do have a very fine edge but they have some serious meat behind that. They get thicker very quickly for three primary reasons as I see it: 1) to pop the wood chips out of the kerf, 2) to reduce binding, and 3) to add weight.
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Yes. Thickness and a tapering wedge profile are very different than a blunt, rounded edged axe that never had it's cheeks thinned.

For what it's worth, the ox-head and like axes geometrically speaking will cut a branch reasonably well. That's because binding isn't an issue and chips, for all intents and purposes, aren't being made or needing to be released from between the opposing lines of cut. An axe has to be able to do something more than just cut limbs well to really earn it's keep with me.

Good steel in them, though.
 
jpeeler said:
There is such a thing as too much penetration, especially in green soft woods.
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That's why I liked properly shaped main pattern axes quite a bit. They are usually mistaken for splitting axes because of the straight taper from the upper face to the edge. When it's thinned right and not rotund they penetrate easily initially (they make good limbers too for this reason) and the taper pops the fibers proportionally depending on how deep the axe bites.
 
Do Maine patterns have flat cheeks, G-pig? The ones I've found on Google look almost like a perfect wedge. Similar to some of the Euro Felling/Forest Axes out there.
 
Nick- From the OchsenKopf (Oxhead) website:

"Since that time, the high-grade OX-HEAD brand tools have been manufactured under the name of Dako Werk Dowidat GmbH & Co. KG.

The former headquarters of OX-HEAD was subsequently transferred to the DAKO company building in Remscheid-Lennep."

Remscheid is in fact in Germany. Big manufacturing town.

John
 
jpeeler said:
Do Maine patterns have flat cheeks, G-pig? The ones I've found on Google look almost like a perfect wedge. Similar to some of the Euro Felling/Forest Axes out there.
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No. All of the Maine patterns, with the exception of a few later made Snow & Nealleys, all have a high centerline. However, it's not as defined as a typical north american pattern of axe, like an old michigan or something.



You can see there it is not as definite on any of those three. but if you check with the flat edge you will see a definite high centerline. The thickness and wedge shape, along with a generally narrower bit from top to bottom enables it to function well without a super prominent high centerline.
 
Peg- True enough. My point was, historically they were out of Germany, and Remscheid would be an ideal place to make steel tools, so I don't know why they would export. Anyway, just because it's German doesn't mean it's perfect, or even close, though the standards seem a bit higher on average.

G-pig- thanks for the info, I see what you're talking about. It's an interesting pattern that I haven't seen around much.
 
I follow you, jpeeler. I think there's good chance that Oxheads are still made in Germany. But it raises the question when their website doesn't specifically state this to be so. Living in America where almost all manufacturing has been moved offshore has made me suspicious.
 
How much importance do you fellows put on 'Shoulder" width? I've noticed some really wide hafts on these 'modern' Dub B's that the old makers I'm guessing didn't feel ness?
 
Square_peg said:
I follow you, jpeeler. I think there's good chance that Oxheads are still made in Germany. But it raises the question when their website doesn't specifically state this to be so. Living in America where almost all manufacturing has been moved offshore has made me suspicious.
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And the German standards for country of origin are a lot grayer than in the U.S.
 
I see what you're saying, Peg. You'd think they would be flaunting it if they were made 100% in country.

Kilt- The thick shoulders are left on by modern makers to give the axes a beefier look, and it's also easier and more stable to lathe thicker handles. Of course, those that actually use these axes know that thick shoulders are a pain in the butt. I almost always modify the shoulders on a handle. The widest point for me is just at the bottom of the head (for it to sit on), then there is immediate taper down to a good grip. Unfortunately, even good replacement handle makers produce handles that have big swells near the head. That's why we try to re-use the old vintage handles when we can!
 
I sincerely appreciate all your answers and help on this. Although in the past I always felt the Euro heads were better made to a greater degree I think I'm at least going to give going to give Council another look. I would like to get to the point of actually chopping with a Council and as Ox Head on the same Cord. That's probably the best way to really tell the better. Maybe someone can Post a comparison?
 
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