Best edge holding steel?

[Death Cattle]

a lot of the steels already listed are definitely great steels. though, one that was left out is vg10. ive been very satisfied with vg10. it depends one what your using it for as well, if you get too hard of a steel and you beat things with it, you could be risking chipping or breaking.

 

[unky_gumbi]

I actually respect my blades, and use the proper blade for the job. In other words I would never use my BM710 to batton fire wood, I would grab my Khukuri for that or an axe. Being use specific with my knives allows me to buy more knives.
The AUS8 knife was a CRKT M21-04, but I traded it to a co-worker for a filing jig that he is making for my. I found that once I got the 710 that the M21 was just sitting around and not getting used, so I sent it to a good home

 

[unky_gumbi]

Welcome to my ignore list.

Edited to explain:
Anyone who would dis Larrin, one of the most knowledgeable people who post here, I have no time for.

I was not dissing anyone, and acknowledged that he is very informed on the topic of steels, but I wasn't looking for anything as indepth as use specifics, just what works for you.
Now if you feel that that was insulting his knowledge, well I am sorry, and if you feel that you must ignore me thats okay too. I am an adult and I can handle some one doing what they feel thay need to do, no hard feeligs here.

 

[sodak]

The absolute best steel that I've used up until now is Rosta Frei, by a very large margin. It has chopped through far more wood than any of my Busse INFI blades, while not losing the ability to shave arm hair. I'd estimate about a cord and a half of wood total for my fireplace.

It has held up even better in my thread cutting tests than CPM 10V and M2 HSS at 66 HRC. While not quite as flexible and tough, as say, 52100, I've been able to flex my Rosta Frei blades 90 deg up to 5 times each way, still returning to true. Just incredible performance.

Add up all of that, in addition to being positively stainless, and it's absolutely the best steel in the world, IMO.

It's still a special order, but well worth the weight.

 

[unky_gumbi]

Never heard of that steel, but sounds like a killer product, know were I may be able to find out more

 

[billygoat78]

Here's my opinion, just from personal experience, about "common" steels like AUS8 and D2:

I think AUS8, 1095, even N690Co (little higher end) are some great "workhorse" steels you can get for under $100, in the case of AUS8 and 1095, usually well under $100. very easy to get a decent edge on and fairly durable. You wont get as sharp as some others (like 154cm) and it won't hold as long as some (like s30v), but depending on what you're going for, these may be some of the better options. 1095 will rust, however.

D2 is a good tool steel, depending on what you're using it for. its harder, a little more difficult to sharpen (meaning it takes longer and perhaps a bit of experience. Haven't run into many knives that were actually "difficult" to sharpen). I have a Kershaw Outcast, a big bolo/semi-kukri type knife in D2 that works as a great chopper. Edge retention is great, but they may chip if you abuse them too much.

Vg-10 and 154 tie with D2 for being some of the more difficult to sharpen, but you can get them very very sharp and they hold an edge well.

in the <$100 range, s30v is my favorite all around, easy to sharpen, holds and edge perhaps the best, takes some punishment, and you can get it shaving sharp real easy.

Note: I know there are lots of other steels and things to consider, if you're living right on the coast you may look into an H1 steel or something instead, etc., but this is the short list

****************

Now, if we're talking no "common" steel boundaries, I'd take my Busse SAR5 any day. I don't know what INFI is. . . but i need more of it!!

 

[dawsonbob]

I'll stick with my plain ol' 1095. Doesn't hold an edge as well as some others, but it gets plenty sharp, plenty easily. I don't mind having to sharpen once in awhile.

 

[unky_gumbi]

Nah I am far from any coast and the nearest river has more dirt and polution in it then H2O.
I am not lookng for another knife right now, I was just interested in what others have experienced. The reason I am not looking right now is because in another week or two I am going to attempt to make my own knife. It will be a mid sized drop point fixed blade made with 5160. I went with 5160 because of recomondations in the makers forums and its cheap, all of .67 per linnear inch so I can get enough for 4 blades for under 40 bucks, allowing me to screw up 3 times

 

[Broos]

Rosta Frei ... incredible performance.

I agree, you can't beat Rosta Frei. And I do love threads about subjective measures of edge retention. After all, if you think you have the best steel, then that is that really matters. At least until you have to cut something for a long time.

 

[sodak]

Never heard of that steel, but sounds like a killer product, know were I may be able to find out more

I think it was a special run from Crucible before they went out of business. A couple of makers bought batches of it, and now they are the only ones who have it. You have to get on their waiting lists, and they don't advertise, otherwise they'd be overwhelmed with orders.

I'll see if I can't convince one of them to free some up here in the near future.

 

[Nebulae]

I was a fan of M4 until I looked up Rosta Frei wow that stuff is sweet

 

[Confederate]

Knife steel is one of those things that are subjective. As others have said, it all depends on what you use a blade for. Some of the best knife edge-holding steels that are available come in limited, or shorter, blade lengths. A knife that is one inch longer in one steel may do better than another knife with a better steel. Also, some people cut plastic, while others cut nautical cord, and others cardboard. Additionally, some like to be able to quickly and easily sharpen a blade; and some like to put a good edge that will last a long time and not require touch ups so much.

The other problem is heat treat. Some blades of the same steel may perform completely differently, and this is maddening. Two days ago, a heating and air conditioning guy told me that valves are corroding faster than ever these days because the steel comes from China, where imperfections get into the mix and the heat treat is sloppy. As a result, the valves rust out faster. The same steels also can be hardened differently, resulting in differing edge-holding abilities. (I've used 440A knives by some knife companies that are dreadful; others by other companies that make it difficult to tell from AUS8.)

Hunters love Buck folding knives, even though the blades are largely 420HC. But though it's far from being a premium steel, the heat treat is top notch. If one gets a Buck Alaskan 110 with S30V, they'll get a fabulous grade steel with fabulous heat treat and price. But many people don't much care for the knife's design and weight.

My recommendation to you would be a good Spyderco with a 4-inch blade. Regardless of the steel, it will likely be a great improvement over what you've been using. Spyderco's steel, heat treat, design, weight and materials combine to give what a lot of people are looking for. I'm quite satisfied with Cold Steel's VG-1 knives because of price considerations, but you'll never get premium steel in their knives.

If you just want a 3-inch folder, the Spyderco Native is an excellent choice. If you want a fixed blade knife, it really depends on what you'll use it for.

 

[cotdt]

Best wear resistance: carbide knives, ceramic knives

Edge holding: CPM 10V, CPM M4

common steels: 440A, 10XX

Knife steel is one of those things that are subjective. As others have said, it all depends on what you use a blade for.

Agree, but that doesn't mean knife performance is subjective. It just means knife performance depends on the task at hand.

 

[cotdt]

The absolute best steel that I've used up until now is Rosta Frei, by a very large margin. It has chopped through far more wood than any of my Busse INFI blades, while not losing the ability to shave arm hair. I'd estimate about a cord and a half of wood total for my fireplace.

It has held up even better in my thread cutting tests than CPM 10V and M2 HSS at 66 HRC. While not quite as flexible and tough, as say, 52100, I've been able to flex my Rosta Frei blades 90 deg up to 5 times each way, still returning to true. Just incredible performance.

Add up all of that, in addition to being positively stainless, and it's absolutely the best steel in the world, IMO.

It's still a special order, but well worth the weight.

I agree about the Rosta Frei steel. Forget about Crucible, Jamaicans make the best steel. Not even Cliff Stamp could break the knife made out of Rosta Frei.

 

[Confederate]

...but that doesn't mean knife performance is subjective. It just means knife performance depends on the task at hand.

Whether a knife's performance is adequate is subjective in the sense that the user must ultimately decide. Empiric results are frequently debated, which is why no one can say which knife steel is the best. The shape and thickness of the steel, the grind and geometry; the weight of the knife &#8212; all are taken into consideration by the buyer, who must then decide whether the knife is what he or she's looking for.

 

[cotdt]

Whether a knife's performance is adequate is subjective in the sense that the user must ultimately decide. Empiric results are frequently debated, which is why no one can say which knife steel is the best. The shape and thickness of the steel, the grind and geometry; the weight of the knife &#8212; all are taken into consideration by the buyer, who must then decide whether the knife is what he or she's looking for.

My philosophy when it comes to buying knives is:

1. Knife blade should be straight
2. Knife should be able to cut
3. Knife blade should be thin
4. Knife should have a handle

Therefore, I would select the best steel for this purpose. It should not warp easily, so not too thin, but thin enough to cut well. So the steel must be tough and hard. The knife should also be able to cut well and therefore hold an edge, so I would use a steel that has some wear resistance. The CPM Killer-V steels (3V, M4, 10V) would perform well at my 4 requirements for knives.

 

[unky_gumbi]

My recommendation to you would be a good Spyderco with a 4-inch blade. Regardless of the steel, it will likely be a great improvement over what you've been using. Spyderco's steel, heat treat, design, weight and materials combine to give what a lot of people are looking for. I'm quite satisfied with Cold Steel's VG-1 knives because of price considerations, but you'll never get premium steel in their knives.

If you just want a 3-inch folder, the Spyderco Native is an excellent choice. If you want a fixed blade knife, it really depends on what you'll use it for.

where as spyderco makes great knives I do not see how it is better then the BM 710 D2 that I have as my ECD on par yes but I would not say better, but that is MHO and I don't like the look of Spydercos's knives. Now your veiw may be the exact oppisite of mine, and you may think the 710 D2 is a garbage knife, I can't see that happening though, you are entitled to say so and I would stand up beside you and defend your right to say so

 

[Confederate]

My philosophy when it comes to buying knives is:

1. Knife blade should be straight
2. Knife should be able to cut
3. Knife blade should be thin
4. Knife should have a handle

Yes, but these, too, are subjective views; yours, as a matter of fact.

But what is straight? How thin is thin, and able to cut what?

As for handles, what type of knife doesn't have a handle?

If someone spends much of the day cutting cardboard or wood, AUS8 will do just fine. If, however, one is cutting nautical cord or those little plastic ties that really screw up a blade's sharpness, and also, if one doesn't want to refresh the edge every night by just a few swipes on a ceramic sharpener, then one must choose something different.

Hunters use different knives for different purposes. As stated above, the Buck 110 has its following. I'm not one of them, though, and am not a fan of 420HC, but some people swear by it. Other folks like to use their knives to baton, so they would need a thicker blade. Some like long blades, like me. One reason I like Cold Steel is that I like 5-inch and 6-inch blades, and I happen to like their heat treat, size, weight and grind of their knives. Others, though, despise anything CS makes and they don't care for AUS8 or VG-1. So all this is personal choice.

 

[sodak]

I agree about the Rosta Frei steel. Forget about Crucible, Jamaicans make the best steel. Not even Cliff Stamp could break the knife made out of Rosta Frei.

I had forgotten that, thanks! Must have something to do with the heat treat in the warmer climates...

 

[stefanj]

I really like W2. It has held a very nice edge for me. I have heard of some liking 1095.
This picture is of a chopper I made (I only hand forged a couple of knives before I deployed again (I'm in Iraq now). It is about 10", handforged of W2, hand filed (I didn't have a grinder and went through a few files until I read about annealing), hand sanded and hand polished. This is I think the fourth knife I have ever made in my life. I'm thinking about putting some scales (grips/handles) on it. It has held a nice edge even after chopping a bunch of branches which felt after heavy winds and still kept an edge (I was testing out the edge).