Best edge holding steel?

unky_gumbi said:
I was just wondering, of all the common blade steels, which has the best edge holding properties?

I went from AUS8 to D2 and the D2 holds an edge much better yet is in the same RC area and has the same edge profile. I am not looking for scientific data here just personal experiences.

thanks for your input
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I've found S30V and VG10 to be the best at edge-holding in the knives I own.

unky_gumbi said:
Nice rain is better then snow. I have been to NYC once, got lost, was running low on fuel and no one want to take my monopoly money even though I was offering 50 cnd for 20 us in gas.
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Try to stay on topic! This thread is about edge-holding, not the weather or various forms of currency, right?
 
The "best" steel on the market isn't worth spit without proper heat treating.

And there really are not that many that truly know how to treat steel to get the optimum performance out of it.

I am discussing this with Bladesmith Jeff Crowner. He uses several different steels, but his differential heat treating the secret to the success of his edge retention. He is one of very few that treat this way. Pretty much a lost art.

You might want to give Jeff, or some other blade makers a call to discuss your question.

Carl-
 
There are many blade makers who know how to treat steels correctly, Bagwell, Knight, Fisk, Rhea, Lamey, Chin, Neilson, Tai Goo, Patton come to mind immediately.

There is a custom section with plenty of guys there with a large amount of experience or you could look in the knife making section and talk to people who actualy make knives and study the art.

Just my .02
 
better than an industrial heat treater? I'm gonnahave to send out some M4 to be hted probly gonna use texas knife maker
 
Jeff uses differential heat treating. When done right, you have an extremely durable chopper that stays sharp for a long, long time.

Done incorrectly you get a knife with a brittle edge and stress points in the blade and/or handle that will eventually fail.

Just do your research and get a knife or heat treating done by someone who makes users, not safe queens.

Carl-
 
Nebulae said:
better than an industrial heat treater? I'm gonnahave to send out some M4 to be hted probly gonna use texas knife maker
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You should give Gayle Bradley a call in referance to M-4 heat treating...He has it down...He lives in Weathorford Texas...He knows this steel inside and out...He has won and set various records within Blade sports with this steel untilized in his choppers...You can look him up at bradleysblades on the internet...He is a wonderful man with a whole lot of knowledge...you might want a buy a blade from him...He makes good ones....
 
I am not an "Expert", but I do use knives now and then and have researched quite a bit lately. I would say that an MS or JS rating does NOT automatically mean you are a more than capable. It means that you made a knife once that passed a set of criteria. Kind of like a drivers liscense, just because you have one, doesn't make you a great driver and you can be a great driver without one.

Conversely, it is my belief that many of the "Best" knifemakers do not have a rating because they either do not want to invest the money and time for the trip to Atlanta or in some cases do not believe in the criteria. That does not keep them from making a superior combat, survival or camp blade.

I am not saying those you have mentioned are not capable, just that many others are just as, if not more than capable than some of those mentioned.

I'm sure many would (and have) happily go head to head with some MS or JS makers and come out the victor.

Anyway, you have mentioned some good knifemakers and as we know, there are PLENTY to choose from using lots of good steels and many that know how to heat treat those steels.

Carl-
 
I know Jeff Crowner makes good knives. Just saying that there is a wealth of knowledge here who are more then capable also and are right next door on this site.

We can leave it at that.
 
sodak said:
The absolute best steel that I've used up until now is Rosta Frei, by a very large margin. It has chopped through far more wood than any of my Busse INFI blades, while not losing the ability to shave arm hair. I'd estimate about a cord and a half of wood total for my fireplace.

It has held up even better in my thread cutting tests than CPM 10V and M2 HSS at 66 HRC. While not quite as flexible and tough, as say, 52100, I've been able to flex my Rosta Frei blades 90 deg up to 5 times each way, still returning to true. Just incredible performance.

Add up all of that, in addition to being positively stainless, and it's absolutely the best steel in the world, IMO.

It's still a special order, but well worth the weight.
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Thank you so much for letting us know how good Rosta Frei is Sodak.
I just got my first knife with this stuff today. Simply amazing! I can actually sharpen it down to five degrees per side and it doesn't bend like putty. ZDP-189 is way over rated.
BTW have the Germans been making their steel in Jamaica all along?

Edit: If you want to read more about how awesome Rosta Frei is, take a look at this thread...
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168550
 
knifenut1013 said:
CPM-M4
CPM-S90V
CPM-S30V, similar edge holding to D2
ZDP-189
52100 at Rc62
CPM-D2

These are ones I have used and have shown good edge holding performance.
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Has your opinion changed in the last 2 years? Is M4 still at the top of your list as far as edge retention goes?
 
Edge holding? S110V
I give it a 10/10 on Edge holding but a 1/10 when it comes to sharpening.

My personal favorite is CTS/XHP
8.5/10 in Edgeholding and a 5/10 when it comes to Sharpening. Also less costly, but in realty, you won't find yourself sharpening either steel often, but since I prefer Serrations, my personal choice is the Carpenter steel.
I've read forum where knife-makers and professionals sharpeners refuse to work with or sharpen S110V as it is extremely difficult and costly to sharpen and tends to damage their sharpening tools.
Just my opinion.
 
Sorry, duplicate post.
Is there a version of this site optimized for Mobile users?
Thanks.
 
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Confederate said:
Knife steel is one of those things that are subjective. As others have said, it all depends on what you use a blade for. Some of the best knife edge-holding steels that are available come in limited, or shorter, blade lengths. A knife that is one inch longer in one steel may do better than another knife with a better steel. Also, some people cut plastic, while others cut nautical cord, and others cardboard. Additionally, some like to be able to quickly and easily sharpen a blade; and some like to put a good edge that will last a long time and not require touch ups so much.

The other problem is heat treat. Some blades of the same steel may perform completely differently, and this is maddening. Two Idays ago, a heating and air conditioning guy told me that valves are corroding faster than ever these days because the steel comes from China, where imperfections get into the mix and the heat treat is sloppy. As a result, the valves rust out faster. The same steels also can be hardened differently, resulting in differing edge-holding abilities. (I've used 440A knives by some knife companies that are dreadful; others by other companies that make it difficult to tell from AUS8.)

Hunters love Buck folding knives, even though the blades are largely 420HC. But though it's far from being a premium steel, the heat treat is top notch. If one gets a Buck Alaskan 110 with S30V, they'll get a fabulous grade steel with fabulous heat treat and price. But many people don't much care for the knife's design and weight.

My recommendation to you would be a good Spyderco with a 4-inch blade. Regardless of the steel, it will likely be a great improvement over what you've been using. Spyderco's steel, heat treat, design, weight and materials combine to give what a lot of people are looking for. I'm quite satisfied with Cold Steel's VG-1 knives because of price considerations, but you'll never get premium steel in their knives.

If you just want a 3-inch folder, the Spyderco Native is an excellent choice. If you want a fixed blade knife, it really depends on what you'll use it for.
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Never say never.
As you probably know, CS started using CTS/XHP "super steel" in many models.
I realize this thread is ancient and it turned up in a web search, and CTS/XHP is not an Elite steel but is definitely a "premium supersteel", and gives great value.
 
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Smaller blade favorites

Stainless- M390/CPM 20CV/CTS-204p, CPM S90V

Carbon- K390, 10V, cruwear/PD1, 3V, M4

Large blades- CPM 3V


For folders it is hard to beat M390/20CV/204p Great edge holding, easy to sharpen, and low maintinence/ Good corrosion resistance. Just great all around steel!!

My new favorite is K390 though. Holds and edge amazingly well, super easy to sharpen, and good toughness. Only drawback is it is not stainless

JUST best edge holding- 10V, K390, S110v, S90V, M4, M390
 
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