Best edge retention.

bdmicarta said:
I'm going to guess M4, with 20CV very close behind. Then working down the list- S30V, D2, 154CM, N680.
Click to expand...

Assuming 20CV is the same as M390
bdmicarta has it perfect. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
M4 sure does it for me; followed very closely by M390 (I have no 20CV yet).
 
In my experience, 20CV(M390) and M4 are neck and neck. If you get a good knife in either, you will be very impressed. If you bought both, and both had good heat treats and good edge geometry, you would probably not notice a difference in edge holding. I find both very easy to sharpen, for the amount of edge holding you get.
 
I would stick M4 and 20cv up at the top.
The decision would be made by HT and Geometry.
 
Gaston: why did you not reply to my questions in the other thread that you posted this video?

They were relevant, poignant, and concise. Was it that you were not able to answer them?

OP, please do not put much stock in this video.
 
Last edited:
Gaston444 said:
Click to expand...
Here you go Gaston, copied just for you.
Please take your time and answer any that you feel capable of. If you cannot do so, please stop referencing this video, as it raises more questions than it answers.
NJBillK said:
Ok, lets break these down for you...

He speaks of bevel angle as being a set and measured angle. How so?

He sharpened on a bench stone. No unaided human hand can set an angle and be repetitive enough to say "this is a 15° angle" across four knives of differing blade heights and thicknesses.

More on the blade thicknesses; He doesn't state a measurement of how thick BTE the knives are. This would have an effect how much wedging would be incurred by cutting through the medium. The harder it is to cut an object, the more force needed. The more force needed, the easier it is to damage the apex.

The height of the blades would also have an effect. The taller kitchen knife would want to track straighter due to the flats guiding the edge, where as the shorter blades would want to steer more, causing side loading and uneven apex wear and increase potential for damage from "dirty" cardboard.

Now for this part.

If Ankersons test only cuts into one material, made to a set standard, wouldn't this yield a more constant result?
In the video you linked, I understand that he is trying to account for a real world scenario, a chaos effect. But if you are trying to test an absolute, that should be mitigated as best as possible.

Which alloy holds an edge better, A or B?
Hrm, let me cut some potentially dirty cardboard with one and potentially clean cardboard with another. If this isn't controlled, this is entirely possible.
- This shouldn't happen. Yes, it will even out, but over what spread? One meter, 10, 50, 5 million?

Cut one material with comparable contaminants within each, not just guessing they are going to even out by the time you are done...

Mind you, this is barring the contact of the wood, which I do agree is detrimental to his results and Ankerson would likely get a more accurate reading if the wood contact was taken out of the test. This can easily be accomplished by milling out a notch that the blade can cleanly pass through.

A fresh board will yield a harsher contact surface for the knife edge but as the test progresses, it will become less of a factor (to a degee) since the board will degrade under the cutting edge. This offers a softer contact area for the knife edge.

This variable should be eliminated.
-------
Is that clear enough for you G Gaston444 , or would you like me to spell it out further?

Just so you know, if you are quoting someone else, that means you are in agreement, (especially if you use it as a defense for your point) unless you state otherwise. So saying that they are someone else's quotes as a defense as to why you aren't wrong, is ridiculous.

You made a statement, now either stand by it or admit you are wrong.
Click to expand...
The second to last paragraph is in reference to your saying that it isn't your video or information. But yet you portray it as "evidence", or "proof"... Of what? I have no idea. I am still waiting for your response...
 
Are you asking about the Razor edge holding or working edge holding?
Working Edge would be: M4, 20CV/204P/M390, S30V, D2, 154CM, and then N680.
As for razor edge holding? Let somebody else answer that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mo2
He won't in this thread either Bill.

NJBillK said:
Gaston: why did you not reply to my questions in the other thread that you posted this video?

They were relevant, poignant, and concise. Was it that you were not able to answer them?

OP, please do not put much stock in this video.
Click to expand...
 
agreed with most posts here.

I assume this Is for a benchmade?

in any case. m4 will patina/rust if not maintained. I keep mine oiled with fluid film to stave it off. just reapply when it wears off with use.

so if you want more stainless go with 20cv.

but you'll love m4 a lot. more toughness if you ask me.
 
palonej said:
He won't in this thread either Bill.
Click to expand...
I know, and every time he posts that video, I will be there. Asking for answers and trying to offer the OP some insight on how Gaston gets down, and how misleading his posts can be.
 
He'll do here what he usually does Bill......take a big steaming dump in a thread and then leave.
Ugh

NJBillK said:
I know, and every time he posts that video, I will be there. Asking for answers and trying to offer the OP some insight on how Gaston gets down, and how misleading his posts can be.
Click to expand...
 
ATJ999 said:
In my experience, 20CV(M390) and M4 are neck and neck. If you get a good knife in either, you will be very impressed. If you bought both, and both had good heat treats and good edge geometry, you would probably not notice a difference in edge holding. I find both very easy to sharpen, for the amount of edge holding you get.
Click to expand...

ALL of this ^
totally.
 
Mo2 said:
agreed with most posts here.

I assume this Is for a benchmade?

in any case. m4 will patina/rust if not maintained. I keep mine oiled with fluid film to stave it off. just reapply when it wears off with use.

so if you want more stainless go with 20cv.

but you'll love m4 a lot. more toughness if you ask me.
Click to expand...
Didn't think anyone else knew about fluid film ha
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top