Best folding hunter??

savageman said:
What folding blade would you pick for carrying while hunting deer and general use?? Blade should be in the 3.5"-4.25" range with a sturdy lock and decent steel. Try and keep it around $75US and under. Thanks
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I forgot to address this in my other post, but my actual answer is that I wouldn't choose a folding knife. A fixed blade doesn't weigh any more than a folder and has no lock to possibly fail and no blade slot to clean the hair and fat out of later.

I don't carry my field dressing knife on my belt when hunting; it stays in my pack until I need it. I have my normal EDC folder clipped to my pocket for the infrequent instance I need a knife instantly. Mainly it's there in case I need to cut myself free from a tree stand safety strap I'm dangling from!

I recommend you carry a small folder in your pocket and a serious fixed blade knife in your pack.
 
I watched a Video some years ago where a Rainforest Tribesman Darted a Monkey from a tree then Processed the entire animal with a piece of Broken Glass. It was amazing! Now I don't know if the piece of glass had an Upswept or a Drop Point Configuration to it but the fella did an Outstanding job processing his game. My point "Pardon the Pun" is I would hate to think that all the 110 owners out there to whom I am one, should give up on our Upswept blades because someone developed a drop point. I have been feild dressing game for 35 years using a Clip Point blade and can not remember ever Puncturing a Stomach. The knife is not the skill it's just the tool... Just my .02 Cents....
 
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if I was going to be getting blood and guts all over my knife frequently I would only use s30v or bg42 if I had to go uncoated. so I say go for the cabela's buck.
 
If you can't decide on a clip- or drop-point blade, a Case XX Changer (Case #174?) gives you four blades (clip, drop, guthook, pelvic saw) in one handle similar to a Buck 110.

Do the search thangy on the internet - it should show up for around $65.

thx - cpr
 
babakanoosh45 said:
I watched a Video some years ago where a Rainforest Tribesman Darted a Monkey from a tree then Processed the entire animal with a piece of Broken Glass. It was amazing! Now I don't know if the piece of glass had an Upswept or a Drop Point Configuration to it but the fella did an Outstanding job processing his game. My point "Pardon the Pun" is I would hate to think that all the 110 owners out there to whom I am one, should give up on our Upswept blades because someone developed a drop point. I have been feild dressing game for 35 years using a Clip Point blade and can not remember ever Puncturing a Stomach. The knife is not the skill it's just the tool... Just my .02 Cents....
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I agree 100% that you can do the job very well with almost any knife if you have the skill---but how many of us process more than 2 or 3 large animals a year to keep our skill level up? My point was why make things any harder on yourself than you have to?

Besides, why would you want a folding knife when you can have a fixed blade for the same price (or less)?
 
I won't dispute that with you. But the thread was about a folder. Besides, and I hope this makes you laugh elkin but here is a photo of my most used FB.
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I have some very good knives with Drop point blades and I have used them. More often than not for general purpose and at times some skinning. But I have always liked the clip point because you can do some small/fine detail cutting easier in my opinion. F1 at Monza is on so gota GO!!! Be Well!!!
 
Here are a few of my contenders. From the bottom up they include a regular $25 Wally World Buck 110, a 560XLT with Ti handle/110 blade, an Alaskan Guide (S30V) Buck 110, a Buck Custom Shop 110 in teardrop Damascus, a Bear 597D stag handled/Damascus blade, and - the ultimate in folders - with a real upswept blade - a Buck 419 Kalinga Pro in S30V. the latter has already gutted many a package of meat from Publix, as well as - after a brief bath - having been pulled from my pocket to slice my dinner. I believe it would be handier than a piece of broken glass - even in cleaning a monkey. Actually, that sounds kind of gross...

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All said, you can't beat that $25 Buck 110...

Stainz
 
Just to stay open minded, here are a couple Drop Points I will be giving a shot this Hunting Season...
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I hope I don't get drilled because there NOT Locking!!!!!LOL!!!!
 
I think the Rijbak is a frame lock. I owned one when they first came out and I swear it was a frame lock. keepem sharp
 
longbow said:
I think the Rijbak is a frame lock. I owned one when they first came out and I swear it was a frame lock. keepem sharp
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They call it a framelock on their web page, but functionally it isn't one. Why is a framelock better than a liner lock? Because on a framelock you are squeezing the lock bar when you grip the knife---the tighter you squeeze the greater the locking strength. A liner lock doesn't give you that advantage.

Take a look at the picture on the link below. If you look at the inset you can see that between the pocket clip and the G10 scale, there is no way that your hand pressure can have any influence on the locking bar. No matter how hard you squeeze, the locking bar never receives any additional force. That means you don't get the advantage that a framelock is supposed to provide.

I'm not saying the Rijback isn't a well-built knife: I have little doubt it's the strongest and best-built liner lock I own, and it will do anything I ask of it. But it isn't a framelock.

Look here and see if what I typed makes sense:

http://www.jerzeedevil.com/gallery/files/5/6/6/rijbak.jpg
 
popcornpicker said:
Try buying an older Buck 440C with a broken tip on ebay. Most real hunters break the tip eventually anyways. The majority break at about 1/8 inch. Fix the tip, touch up the stop so the tip doesn't stick out and you have a classic user. Most people won't know the difference. At least that might save you a few tears when yours breaks and you can get them pretty cheap. It's a bonus if you get a beat up pouch.
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Ditto on Buck 110, and on popcorns tip breaking theory. I break the tip off of everyone. Usually takes a couple 3 or 4 years but it is going to happen. Broke my last one using the tip to help unto a vicous knot tied in a line securing a ladder stand. The knife is workhorse and can be used and abused for about 3 to 4 years, but their inexpensive notice I i did not say cheap as in my opinion there is a difference. Additionally the knife is the perfect size for nearly all popular game from squirrels, rabbits, to ducks/geese and deer. I have skinned more deer and cleaned more squirrels and ducks than I care to think about with a buck 110 and the blade steel is just fine, wash it off at the skinning shed wipe it dry and its good to go.
 
If you are going to use it for gutting and preping your kill (which is what a hunting knife is for) then a drop point blade is much better than the clip point of the 110. Buck makes a folding Alpha Hunter that can be found for around $80. I personally use the fixed blade Alpha for all my kills. It is ATS-34 (excellent steel) and forget about the guthook, you don't need it and it would probably snag on things.
 
Wow I'll call BUCK and tell them to stop production on the 110 knife. cuz no one needs a clip point blade anymore for hunting!
 
They already know. That's why the came out with the Alpha Hunter. The 110 is a general purpose knife. It will work, ya. But a drop point is better. Blades are clipped to make them better stabbers (like Ka-bars).
 
Dang! So your saying that Buck made the 110 so that all the farmers and hunters and general sportsman could go out and stab things? And the drop point is a new thing? Cuz my Dad had a sod buster that was older than his Buck 110 and it never saw the lite of day once he got the 110. Uhmmmm!!
 
I just think it's a tad over the top to say that one style is better than another when the style being considered poor has and is being used by untold amounts of people AROUND THE WORLD!!!! That being a Clip Point on a Buck 110.
 
You know what I'm saying. They clip the blade because it's a "do everything" knife. And it does just that. It works well for everything. But as a strick hunting knife, a drop point is better. Almost all custom hunting (animal prep) knives have drop point blades.

And I said almost, so don't come back with examples that don't.
 
no worries bud! We have to agree to disagree on which is better. I feel both are more than capable of doing the job and I feel neither has an edge~pardon the pun~over the other. But under no circumstances do (I) feel a DP is better than a CP or Visa versa!
 
scraphogg said:
no worries bud! We have to agree to disagree on which is better. I feel both are more than capable of doing the job and I feel neither has an edge~pardon the pun~over the other. But under no circumstances do (I) feel a DP is better than a CP or Visa versa!
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I can't agree with you there. For the specific circumstance of slitting an animal down its belly to let the guts out, a drop point is less likely to accidentally catch the stomach and open it up.

The Buck 110 isn't a true clip point. A true clip point has a straight line profile on the top edge, not one that curves upward like the 110 does. I would prefer a true clip point for gutting over the Buck blade shape.
 
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