Best hard use folder (Farm etc)

I recommend the Spyderco Gayle Bradley. It is a very strong folder made with good materials. The blade is M4 steel. I have used it for all kinds of AG chores, as well as construction. It has held up very, very well, I'm very happy with it. Do a search for Gayle Bradley hard use and you should find a thread I started a long time ago detailing the uses I have put mine to.

Andy
 
wow thanks guys for all the responses! I know price range was kicked around a bit and well honestly we had a good first cutting of hay with minimal breakdowns soo i have around 150 ish to play with. And yes i all ready carry a Victorinox. Looks like i got some more homework to to now!

thanks
Andrew
 
I would say maybe a Gayle Bradley because of the steel as well. I would not recommend any steel too soft for some of the chores you will encounter. Plus, if you are out on the farm all day, you might dull a knife with an inferior steel before your working day is over. That would get rid of AUS 8, 8Cr13MoV, and many other lower quality steels. I am not bashing on these, I have a lot of 8Cr13MoV, and like it for EDC, but would not be my choice for a lot of heavy use. I would not worry about lock strength, that is over hyped. I would think about how easy the lock is to manipulate while working hard and fast. That would disqualify the 110 so many have suggested. I just do not see having to take off both gloves that you may be wearing and open and close the knife as ideal. That is why I would recommend Spyderco, and specifically any Manix or Sage 3. I do not own any Manix, but for a work knife, I find the Sage 3 hard to beat.
 
You won't believe it, but a Kershaw Chive is pretty tough.
I've been carrying one for weeks now and I've put alot of pressure cutting on it, and alot more than it's size "advertises" and theres still no blade-play.
Plus, It doesn't cost much.
 
bladeboss said:
You won't believe it, but a Kershaw Chive is pretty tough.
I've been carrying one for weeks now and I've put alot of pressure cutting on it, and alot more than it's size "advertises" and theres still no blade-play.
Plus, It doesn't cost much.
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Yes, you're right, I don't believe it. ;)
 
singularity35 said:
Yes, you're right, I don't believe it. ;)
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As dumb as it sounds, I have alot of trust for it now.
I've put so much pressure on it cutting things like wood, that the lockbar slides over to 100% lockup.
And when I close it and open it again, the lockbar goes back to where it was before.
I dont care what they say, the Chive has alot to offer.
And if it DID break, they dont cost your life savings to buy one. :D
 
what do you guys think about spear vs tanto vs clip point edge ? Looking at the cold steel recon only thing that i have questions about is that back lock they have is it that strong and the lack of jimping / back grip on the blade seems alittle on the light side. Just to throw another blade in the mix how bout a manix or variation of them compared to the recon ? Seems like i like the grip on the spyderco but the blade on the Cold Steel :confused:

thanks for the help
Andrew
 
AZad said:
what do you guys think about spear vs tanto vs clip point edge ? Looking at the cold steel recon only thing that i have questions about is that back lock they have is it that strong and the lack of jimping / back grip on the blade seems alittle on the light side. Just to throw another blade in the mix how bout a manix or variation of them compared to the recon ? Seems like i like the grip on the spyderco but the blade on the Cold Steel :confused:

thanks for the help
Andrew
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I don't care much for spear or tanto for farm use but that's just my opinion.It always comes down to you're personal preference.If you like Spyderco,I believe this may be an option to consider.I really like the Para2 also.
 
AZad said:
what do you guys think about spear vs tanto vs clip point edge ? Looking at the cold steel recon only thing that i have questions about is that back lock they have is it that strong and the lack of jimping / back grip on the blade seems alittle on the light side. Just to throw another blade in the mix how bout a manix or variation of them compared to the recon ? Seems like i like the grip on the spyderco but the blade on the Cold Steel :confused:

thanks for the help
Andrew
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnbK2r2u6A0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64MdLjeDfbA

Yes, the Cold Steel Triad back-lock is perhaps the strongest lock-type on the market.

The Recon 1's shaped handle locks the knife into your grip, no jimping is required to keep it in place.

Also, the Recon 1 is very easy to manipulate with gloved hands, opens & closes single handed very easily.

Spear & tanto points work well for piercing with the tip but are less durable than the stout western-tanto design cold steel employs which has reduced penetration ability but is plenty sufficient for most tasks and is more robust (i.e. more material support against lateral stress - prying, torque).

I use a Recon 1 Tanto with serrations as a beater on my acreage.

If you prefer a drop-point blade, look at the Cold Steel American Lawman instead.
 
Get a bunch of Mora´s !

The red wood handle carbon steel model would be my recommendation.

npDk7.jpg


1234,,,:)
 
The Triad lock on the Recon or the Lawman are super stout. The grip on these two are really secure, very aggressive textured G10.

I think the spear point might be a little stronger but not quite as refined for some delicate knife work as the clip point.

Some dont like AUS 8, but I like it for its toughness and how easy it sharpens and how sharp it will get. My opinion only.
 
Buck 110. Worked then, works now.

Inexpensive, easily replaceable, and shiny brass is easily found when dropped. Comfortable, ergonomic handle design. Excellent edge retention. Almost every farmer/hunter around me carries a Buck 110 and/or a Leatherman tool. Some carry Gerbers.

Nothing wrong w/ BM710, BM275, Spyderco GB, Spyderco PM2/Millie or CS Recons. They are all just more expensive to replace if lost.
 
For 150 bucks you've got a great number of options. One of my personal (hard use folder) favorites in this price range is ZT 200. The only turn off I can conjure up with this knife is the very aggresivly textured G-10 handle that can be a bit hard on pants pockets.
 
I agree with those suggesting the gayle bradley. For the uses you described, you'd be better served by the m4 steel on gb rather than the overbuilt lock & mediocre blade on most cold steel knives. I havent hard used my gb but Ive seen several threads with people using it for the uses you describe (cutting reinforced hose, stripping wires, etc) and singing its praises. Only drawback is that it would likely be difficult to disengage the liner lock with work gloves.

Even though its probably common sense to you, I also want to caution against neck knives as mentioned by some posters. A farm is the last place you want to use a neck knife. A small fixed blade carried on your belt makes sense (Id rather have a folder myself since Im fat and a belt knife would likely be uncomfortable for me getting in and out of truck and tractor cabs a bunch of times a day) but a neck knife around pto's and other equipment will get in the way and could be extremely dangerous even if attached with breakaway ball chain.

If you usually have a tool kit with you, then the multi-tool might not be the best since they often have thin blades made of lower end steel which wouldnt hold up well when cutting heavy hoses. Depends on what kind of farm you're working on though I guess. Where I live, the land and growing season is mostly suited to grain crops so the farms are big and most work is done with machinery. Everyone has a basic tool kit on the tractor/combine/truck/etc. There is relatively little walking around type work that you'd find with some types of ranches or smaller, more labour intensive farming. In this case, a good multi-tool would be worth its weight in gold and save you a bunch of back and forth trips for every little thing.
 
Justa said:
I agree with those suggesting the gayle bradley. For the uses you described, you'd be better served by the m4 steel on gb rather than the overbuilt lock & mediocre blade on most cold steel knives. I havent hard used my gb but Ive seen several threads with people using it for the uses you describe (cutting reinforced hose, stripping wires, etc) and singing its praises. Only drawback is that it would likely be difficult to disengage the liner lock with work gloves.

Even though its probably common sense to you, I also want to caution against neck knives as mentioned by some posters. A farm is the last place you want to use a neck knife. A small fixed blade carried on your belt makes sense (Id rather have a folder myself since Im fat and a belt knife would likely be uncomfortable for me getting in and out of truck and tractor cabs a bunch of times a day) but a neck knife around pto's and other equipment will get in the way and could be extremely dangerous even if attached with breakaway ball chain.

If you usually have a tool kit with you, then the multi-tool might not be the best since they often have thin blades made of lower end steel which wouldnt hold up well when cutting heavy hoses. Depends on what kind of farm you're working on though I guess. Where I live, the land and growing season is mostly suited to grain crops so the farms are big and most work is done with machinery. Everyone has a basic tool kit on the tractor/combine/truck/etc. There is relatively little walking around type work that you'd find with some types of ranches or smaller, more labour intensive farming. In this case, a good multi-tool would be worth its weight in gold and save you a bunch of back and forth trips for every little thing.
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Good points, but a neck knife can be used if you use a break-away neck lanyard. I say too if you are willing to drop $150 get a better quality knife.
 
1234 said:
Get a bunch of Mora´s !

The red wood handle carbon steel model would be my recommendation.

npDk7.jpg


1234,,,:)
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:barf:

Never understood the fascination with Mora's. I had two of them and just used them in the kitchen and the there were several places on the blades where the edges rolled.
 
I would discount anything too heavy and anything not one handed. That has been the single most important folder advancement since....ever. For that reason, I'd discount the buck 110. A mid priced spyderco sounds like what you want or go with a 3 inch fixed blade of good steel. Honestly I think a nice, slim para 2 from spyderco just about fits your bill. I also wouldn't go with a leatherman just because the blade option on any of them is not ideal for heavy cutting and that's what you asked about.
 
I think the first question should be, How are your sharpening skills? What steels do you have experience with sharpening?

Working on a farm you're going to dull whatever you carry pretty quick and you wont have the luxury to send the knife out for sharping every time it needs it.

This will help you determine what blade steel would work best for you. M4 is great, but if you can't sharpen it, the first time it dulls you're up sh!t creak without a paddle.

-sh00ter
 
newknife said:
:barf:

Never understood the fascination with Mora's. I had two of them and just used them in the kitchen and the there were several places on the blades where the edges rolled.
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I don't know bud, I just cut a bunch of thick plastic deer fencing this evening with my classic #2 and still nice and shaving sharp, while this same amount of cutting took the keen edge off 8cr13mov. I know some knock the scandi, but it works better than you might think.
 
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