Best heavy trail user?

z537z said:
Temper which is it? I've looked through Roger's site, he does nice work.

pick a number...http://riflestocks.tripod.com/pics40.html

_z

Actually I got two :D

This little beauty

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/pics36.html

And the Beast

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/pics35.html

1/4 inch D2 stock, Tapered Tang, Exhibition grade Desert Iron Wood. Sheath (Which is to die for by the way) By Jamie Briggs.

Its one big momma, between a BK7 and a BK10 But its just so damned nice to hold I couldnt think of going anywhere outside without it. I have a Fallkniven Oden too but this one has so much character there is no competition.

Can you say smitten? :)
 
z537z said:
BAM!
I have the luck of being THAT GUY who's ALWAYS missing what he needs. Granted, the need for an emergency big honkin knife defense from Grizzly attacks is slim, but I'd rather lose a few more pounds carrying the thing than not have it if something comes up.

_z


A tad different but. A pal of mine goes on a bike ride in new territory, roads only. After about 10 miles he starts to go down a steep hill, he had the brakes on so long he heated the rim up enough to melt the valve stem. Pssssssssssss *&^*^*^*&^(*&(*()(*!!!!! 10 mile hike! :D
 
I've had a fair amount of utility knife experience, which includes a lot of field experience both military and civilian, and have always been captivated by the genre', finding the concept of the "unbreakable", rugged knife a siren's song...luckily, a song that doesn't lead to destruction, so long as you keep a few common sense ideas in mind....first, you don't have to spend a fortune for quality....second, LARGE heavy knives get heavier every step and will quickly get to the point you hate to put the thing on in the morning, and might even endanger your health and your trip if you have to evacuate out due to infection from blistering chafing from a weight not carried properly....thirdly, the key to avoiding the second point is proper load bearing, and I recommend lashing the knife to your pack and/or straps, and if you belt carry, get a wide, stiff sturdy belt to minimize chafing....quite a few good blades out there, most of which will split firewood when using another piece of wood on the spine,.... don't attempt this with skinning type knives with thin delicate edges, but don't get something so massively thick you can't slice with it (foodstuff, for instance, although I recommend a smaller sharp knife reserved for all fine/slicing chores)....recommendations? So very many mentioned already, and since I am not a Top-40-BS kinda guy, many of those I have never heard of, being a middle-aged crusty sort set in my ways...from personal experience, a shorter Himalayan Imports Ang Khola is a fine chopper/hacker/whacker utility blade that can still fashion a makeshft tent peg or pole, while being nearly unbreakable...I would recommend something like a CS Trailmaster/Recon-Scout except the handles chafe and come loose, the SRK is too short for chopping without blistering you badly in short order (and also has the same handle material), but the blades are good and tough....Ka-Bar (and their ilk) is a good all-around knife but fragile for abusive stuff (prying), and I recommend cutting off the top guard to get your thumb out on the spine for better control....most impressive to me is the Busse/Swamprat line, the economy Swamprat offering incredible performance for the money backed by a lifetime unlimited warranty against any and all use/abuse...you would want to try out the handles beforehand to make sure they work for you, as I think slicker handles work best for heavy work blades to prevent blistering....avoid any handle with an aggressive finish of any sort, also softer tacky synthetics...also, stay away from racy-looking knives with sharp hard edges except on the cutting edge, likewise sharp thumb-ridges on the spine, as they will all eat your hand alive with hard use (so this latter injunction will eliminate 90% of the hype/tactical knives out there...besides, tactical means strategic, and I have yet to hear of a knife so glorious you could conquer the world with just one, likewise the handguns, carbines, and tactical underwear...if it says "tactical", don't buy it, as they clearly don't even understand the English language so their gear is immediately suspect)....a tapered diamond sharpener that stows in its handle is the way to go for maintenance in the field, and keep in mind no stainless or near-stainless can resist shock or prying the way a carbon tool/spring steel can, but that also means edge rust which swiftly degrades an edge, so use a sheath that doesn't absorb/hold water....personally, I have a Mission MPK Ti blade currently as an all-around smaller field knife, as it may lack some in really sharp edge holding, but it is VERY abrasion resistant so holds a useful edge, sharpens easily with a finer sharpener, is near unbreakable and is totally maintenance free...but for general field use, I have a handforged large camp knife by an ABS Mastersmith made from 5160 spring steel...you can get a blade like that for less than many of the Top-40-BS knives seem to be going for, especially if you go with a Journeyman shooting for his Master rating (the Master being dependent on his making a damascus blade that equals his Journeymans carbon-steel blade)......in any case, have fun shopping, enjoy the hike, keep your feet dry and blister-free, and don't say I didn't tell you so....
 
Good post! I wouldn't carry a knife on a belt if I could help it, but on the side, or on the front strap of a pack would work fine for relatively quick access.

I'm not sure what knife is the way to go still, but I'm thinking Becker or Ranger mostly, still.

Checkering is super-annoying, no doubt. And thumb ridges are PAINFUL after a few minutes of heavy cutting, I found that out the hard way.

I've decided on making my own knife in case you haven't read my other thread, but I'd still like to get a knife that's not succeptible to flaws due to my own suspect crafstmanship :D



I might just grab up a knife in CPM-3V...bulletproof and more. I'll start saving now.

_z
 
3V is good stuff, but a good heat treat will get the most out of a supposedly lesser steel. Justin at Ranger Knives gets a heck of a lot of performance out of 5160 in his RD knives.
 
Great advice! And great excuse to buy a new knife!

Okay, my .02, silly as it may be: I've hiked the AT many, many times. There's nothing out there you really need any major blade for except humans. I'm at home in the woods, especially at night, it's peaceful, and it's safer than town or city. But there's also like a million drunken stoopid idiots stumbling around out there (also some really cool people too) and no cops. I like to carry something a little more than a SAS, but you don't need a machete either. So I go with something light, utilitarian, looseable, and maybe a little intimidating, if need be; something you can use when you get bored for sharpening wood, fishing, cutting food & rope, etc.

I love my Camillus pilot survival knife for overnight hikes, but if I had to haul something for several days/weeks, I'd go with a small Nealy or Dozier or Falkniven or Bark River or for less bucks maybe a Mora or something like that.

Now what excuse can I use to get a new knife?

WileE
 
Ranger Knives RD9. Nothing else even comes close except Swamp Rat for value.
 
djolney said:
3V is good stuff, but a good heat treat will get the most out of a supposedly lesser steel. Justin at Ranger Knives gets a heck of a lot of performance out of 5160 in his RD knives.
The high vanadium steel holds and edge extremely well, but lacks the shock resistance and ability to flex of the 5160, which is why I went 5160 on my camp knife, also the really abrasion resistant steels can be a bear to hone while 5160 sharpens easy and holds an edge well....as to the Becker, my second-hand impression is that is suffers from the same malady as the Ka-Bar, it being made a bit too hard and so becomes brittle in some uses...many smiths use 5160 for the very good reason that it is an excellent steel for larger blades that will be used for chopping...but, as always, it all goes back to how the knife is made, and heavy use heavy knives need the harder (but not too hard) edge and softer spine (to resist shock and give during flex), and no matter the steel or maker, it will disappoint if those qualities are not there.....
 
Among the heavy users, what would be the best pick for a survival, trail, heavy duty knife?

I really like my Chris Reeve Nkonka in 3-V, that thing is a whacker!

Not too keen on the supplied sheath though, it's really a struggle to get the knife to come outta there. I had Robert at Survival Sheath Systems make one from Concealex that slings upside-down under the left armpit- it's the shizzle!
 
Buzzbait said:
There is ZERO need for a large knife on the AT. The AT has very firm rules on hiking, from what I gather, that will utterly prevent you from using it. If you really want more than a large SAK or multitool, try one of the small to medium sized Bark River Knife & Tool knives. They will make quick work of a hiking stick, which is about the most use you'll get out of a fixed blade on the AT.

I highly recommend reading a couple books on hiking the AT. I have a feeling that it's quite a bit different than what you're expecting.
What about the security of having a nice piece of steel with you? To me, part of the fun of hiking in the woods is being able to pack a cool blade or two. I can't explain it, but I think people here know. Otherwise I'll just stroll around my suburban block with a keychain SAK.
 
Go SAK
For a lightweight fixed blade you will really use, the Fällkniven S-1 is perfect.
Or try a Finnisch Puuko.

Happy Trails..
 
I've done alot of hiking over the years and a small portion of the AT and I have always carried my Chris Reeve Mountaineer II with me. I think the 5.5" blade is a great balance of weight and usefulness. I have used it for everything from cleaning fish and food prep to cutting and splitting wood. Pair this with a SAK with a saw and you would be set. Most of all carry what you enjoy using and have fun, that's what it is all about.
 
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