Best Lock-up on a folder

The best lockup I have experienced is a pretty even spread between all the Tri-Ad locks I have handled. Each one, without fail, has had playless lockup and been easy to open and close with one hand (I turn the knife around in my hand and depress the lock by squeezing my middle finger)

The most -pleasant- lockup, though, is probably the Spyderco Carribbean. Compression locks are generally fun to begin with, but I’ve disliked the Para2 and Yojimbo because of the shape/size of the cutouts in the G10 being too small or too square. The Carribbean is just right for me, as I can disengage the lock without holding the knife in a pinch hold.
 
Cold steel ad10 and the Hinderer XM-18. Only knives ive had you couldn’t muscle play or lock rock. That’s why I don’t buy ZTs their lock geometry is bad every one has lock rock
 
slicecream said:
But you can take the spring out and snip exactly two rings off, and reassemble the knife, at least with the Manix 2 XL. I did it to both of mine and they are now about as smooth as a compression lock with a freely swinging blade. YMMV but it worked perfectly for me.
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David Richardson said:
How is the closed blade retention after this modification? I considered making this mod to my D'Allara but then realized the spring is what keeps the blade closed as well.
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The closed blade retention on my two Manix 2 XLs is more than good enough to carry them in my pocket without fear of them opening. The D'Allara being a different knife, and one I've never handled, YMMV, but if you had a Manix 2 XL, I would not even hesitate to say go for it.
 
Since my post you quoted I received a Spyderco Shaman in the mail, and the compression lock on it is every bit as good as to be expected. It started out of the box with some blade wiggle, but I tightened the pivot screw (after making my mods) and managed to get the wiggle down to almost nothing with drop shut closure. I tightened it a bit further than that though so it could have bank vault lock up (which it does). It no longer has drop shut closure but a very minor amount of wrist action during the lock depression is all that is needed for a full, quick, and easy closure (or opening).
 
Of my lock backs, liner locks, frame lock, and button lock knives, the Triad lock on my Cold Steel XL Voyager is wiggle-free solidity and very easy to open and close. Man, I love that thing.
 
Risking the anger of the Buck fanboys ha ha. But, my Boker Cronidur locks up as tightly as anything I’ve ever used. Including the 110 I had the custom shop build for my daughter’s 16th a few years back.
 
Best lockup I have is with the Spyderco Chinook 4 Power lock. Next in line are Manix 2 and XL. I've broken a Manix blade, but the lock didn't budge ....

I'm still new to Hinderer, they feel great; however I've seen other framelocks slide (other brands), so I just don't trust them as much as power lock and CBBL yet. Time will tell.

Roland.
 
Just about anything that isn't a liner or frame lock. After getting knives with moving locks from ZT, Hinderers, CRK, etc, I'd really rather just have a modern Axis/Compression/Triad/button lock. Modern advances in locking systems are really a great thing.
 
I'm curious why framelocks don't seem to have the best lock-up but liner locks with a thinner locking piece seem to have a better lock-up. Thoughts?
 
Hi,[/QUOTE]
slicecream said:
That Durand is impressive looking!



No problem. You can disassemble it and bend the lock spring by securing it in a vise and tapping it gently with a hammer. You can go back and forth until the spring tension is just right, which may require a few times disassembling and reassembling the knife, but it is definitely worth it to have an easy one handed closing super strong Triad lock.
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Hi, I’m new to this forum. I have a Cold Steel Recon-1 50/50 Tanto and I am just wondering if there were any tips to turning this knife into as close to a spring-assisted knife as possible. Like getting the smoothest opening possible. Would Zoom Spout be good for the knife pivot as well?
 
CQCGeek89,
I would suggest starting a new thread instead of hijacking one,
Welcome
 
I don’t have any complaints with any of my knives but I have the most confidence in my Spyderco Native’s back locks.
 
The most solid and consistent locks I've had are frame locks on Brian Nadeau's customs. The lock engagement is 'late', which I don't always love, but I can trust them not to fail. I've had blade play and other issues with frame/liner locks from other makers/manufacturers, Spyderco compression locks, button locks (auto and manual), etc - Brian's knives have had no such issue and I have about 15 of them. If I had to use a folding knife for hard use, he's what I'd go with.
 
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