Best serious use HI wood chopper?

After watching that video of the 18" Ang Khola that FlowerOfLife recommended, while I'm VERY impressed with the results, I'm also convinced that I can handle a larger kukri without too much problem. However it's stated that the 20" models are nearly twice as heavy as the 18", seems like a crazy difference in weight for 2 extra inches of blade, I guess it's just thicker?

So, some more questions if you guys don't mind:

I'm assuming these kukuris are full-tang and not RAT-tang? Rat-tang (while traditional and still reliable, not bashing it at all) would be unacceptable to me based on preference/psychological fear of breaking alone. Plus I'd imagine full tang has better balance for a tool of this shape.

What would you guys recommend as far as handle material if I was given the choice, wood or horn? Haven't been exposed to horn much so am not as familiar with it's properties as with wood.
 
FreakMeat said:
... Perhaps I will purchase a cheap, 70 dollar "Villager" from them and a larger chopper from HI, then I could compare the quality...
Click to expand...

HI has the KLVUK or KMVUK villager khukuris for about the same price, with no real worries about "hit or miss".

Another consideration is that the resale/trade value of HI khukuris could be significantly higher than the generic khukuris, being more marketable and retaining more of their value over time, which might be a factor as you learn what works best for you.
 
FreakMeat said:
After watching that video of the 18" Ang Khola that FlowerOfLife recommended, while I'm VERY impressed with the results, I'm also convinced that I can handle a larger kukri without too much problem. However it's stated that the 20" models are nearly twice as heavy as the 18", seems like a crazy difference in weight for 2 extra inches of blade, I guess it's just thicker?
Click to expand...

Many people are surprised at the difference a seemingly mere 2" can make on these things. It is bigger all over and heavier

FreakMeat said:
So, some more questions if you guys don't mind:

I'm assuming these kukuris are full-tang and not RAT-tang? Rat-tang (while traditional and still reliable, not bashing it at all) would be unacceptable to me based on preference/psychological fear of breaking alone. Plus I'd imagine full tang has better balance for a tool of this shape.
Click to expand...

HI Makes both Full tang (chiruwa) and Stick tang models. The stick tang is peened to the buttcap for added safety.
In nearly 30 yrs of business HI has had less failures of the stick tang than you can count on one hand. HI makes the toughest stick tang in the business. It is nearly as tough as a full tang khukuri. Because of the added weight a Full tang (chiruwa) khukuri will have a more neutral balance whereas the stick tang will be a bit more blade heavy.

FreakMeat said:
What would you guys recommend as far as handle material if I was given the choice, wood or horn? Haven't been exposed to horn much so am not as familiar with it's properties as with wood.
Click to expand...

Your choice, they both perform pretty much the same although the horn will require a bit more care in dryer climates and will need to be hydrated. The wood will also need to be oiled and sealed, but will shrink a bit less.

FreakMeat said:
I can't seem to find any type of Villager model at all on their site. Link?
Click to expand...

The villager models when available, are only sold here on the forum. "Villager" just means that there isn't the high fit and finish or polish of the regular models and the villagers are slightly less expensive. They are more like what the people in a Nepali Village would use, although even our version of the villager is more fitted and polished than they would be accustomed to.
 
Last edited:
Go with HI , you will never look back , Auntie is the best !
So far I have an M43 , Pen Knife , Seax and hoping to snag
a Villager. A bit of a warning they tend to multiply , I have
purchased and gifted so many I lost count. All the Ladies and
Gents here are great except on Deal of the Day , Happy Sharking!
 
I'm definitely sold on the HI Khuks as this one (or perhaps 2) purchase I will make is a gift of sorts to myself for climbing out of this rut I've been in for going on 5 years now. A worthy occasion demands a WORTHY CELEBRATION, don't you think? :P

Still going to have to put some thought/research into which to get. I keep feeling this strong calling towards either the Ganga Ram Special or Ang Khola 20", but I'm turned off by the fact that they are rat-tang. For such a heavy, long blade full-tang would provide superior balance/weight distribution, and for the sheer volume of wood I intend to chop I feel it would be a better choice. Does HI do custom orders and if so how is the usual pricing on such special orders? Would it be something to work out with Auntie Yangdu herself?
 
For regular or lengthy chopping sessions Id go with the 18" AK or CAK. They are a bit lighter for extended use. KLVUK is a great all around knife but it doesnt have the weight you need for what you are describing. Anything over 3-4" diameter will be a challenge to process with any regularity although it can be done. For heavy chopping the edge geometry of the AK is really better suited. They are thicker behind the working edge.
52b536bb72bf51204a9b02115182485c


Here is my 20" AK with nice size Chakmak and Karda. I used this all winter chopping and splitting up short sections of logs etc to feed my potbelly stove. It is heavy at about three pounds but doesnt have to go far to go to work. The added weight can be used to your advantage for sure but I wouldnt want to strap it to my belt and hike it through the bush for miles and miles. There is where the 18" AK would be better or CAK.
I wouldnt worry about the rat tang breaking in fact it might be desirable over the full tang simply because it will absorb shock better from chopping the hard dry stuff you speak of in your yard. It really does make a noticeable difference. I beat the living heck out of mine batoning included. Let me know if theres something you want to see done with it and ill send you some proof this is a bombproof blade! BTW. The rat tail is fully extended through the handle and peened on the end. Ganga Ram would be a cool candidate too! They come in 22". That was my first choice before I got my 20AK but it was not available at the time.

f676d59b32f83a636fda0eba156e58c6
Heres a spine shot. 1/2"+
 
Last edited:
I too was turned off by the rat tang at first but I'm a convert. They are really tough. I still like a full tang but I got no issue at all with the rat anymore either. For reasons mentioned above. I think they have their place in the over all scheme of things.
 
FreakMeat said:
I have what I call a "miniforest" in the backyard and the trees are mostly dead and dry Ash ranging from 6 inch diameter trunk to perhaps 16-18 inch, so nothing too fancy. However I also have some fallen limbs lying around from a HUGE oak tree that I like to tangle with now and then when I'm feeling feisty. I intend to dismantle them all one by one. I've gotten a good start with my POS 36" axe but it's a dull, unwieldy tool and I seek to "branch out," no pun intended.
...
Click to expand...

With this size of seasoned hardwood you definitely want to go with one of the larger models. Also, consider sharpening up your axe for some of this big stuff.

A khukuri is still a lot of fun, if not the dedicated tool an axe is. I highly encourage you to give Yangdu a call. She will quite likely be able to fix you up with something not on the website, or a blem with cosmetic flaws that meets your needs at a reduced price.
 
I don't want to sound like I am flaming you, I just really want to try to understand and if you really want to make sure you get a full tang then there have been some good suggestions for them above. But, when you talk about needing a full tang because it will be better balanced. Realize you don't want a better balance. For chopping work, you want the weight over the sweetspot, where it will do the work for you. Allow the tool to do the work, don't make your arm do it. Also look in the HI "stickies" for the proper chopping technique using a Khuk and your wrist. It is much different than using an axe, but the right technique will be very helpful to your prolonged chopping.

Now on to the question I have. I keep hearing people talk about full tangs as better. But I have never seen anyone demonstrate that a full tang provides any benefit at all, What benefit does any of you feel they provide? I have seen where the HI tang has provided literally years of chopping frozen maple and hardwoods without a single failure. Many of the guys here use their Khuk to process all the firewood they use each year. Year after year without a failure. I think Full tang has become a selling point for "tacticool" knives the same as a Kydex sheath, it isn't necessary and rarely matters but it is important because... well because it is? Most blades will fail at the edge what in nihonto aretameshi would be considered a Ha-giri. or a roll at the edge long before a peened tang failed.
 
Shavru, urgent PM in your mailbox. Please address asap! Has nothing to do with my wife coming home in 3 days and the status of our affair.
 
katanas have rat tails. Original Kukris have mice tails and not even a pin through it.
What worked for aeons should be plenty good but doesn't mean it can't be improved or tweaked for new applications.
 
Shavru said:
Now on to the question I have. I keep hearing people talk about full tangs as better. But I have never seen anyone demonstrate that a full tang provides any benefit at all, What benefit does any of you feel they provide? I have seen where the HI tang has provided literally years of chopping frozen maple and hardwoods without a single failure. Many of the guys here use their Khuk to process all the firewood they use each year. Year after year without a failure. I think Full tang has become a selling point for "tacticool" knives the same as a Kydex sheath, it isn't necessary and rarely matters but it is important because... well because it is? Most blades will fail at the edge what in nihonto aretameshi would be considered a Ha-giri. or a roll at the edge long before a peened tang failed.
Click to expand...

More neutral balance, usage as prybar, make user feel "safer".
 
Shavru said:
.... I keep hearing people talk about full tangs as better. But I have never seen anyone demonstrate that a full tang provides any benefit at all, What benefit does any of you feel they provide? I have seen where the HI tang has provided literally years of chopping frozen maple and hardwoods without a single failure. Many of the guys here use their Khuk to process all the firewood they use each year. Year after year without a failure. I think Full tang has become a selling point for "tacticool" knives the same as a Kydex sheath, it isn't necessary and rarely matters but it is important because... well because it is? Most blades will fail at the edge what in nihonto aretameshi would be considered a Ha-giri. or a roll at the edge long before a peened tang failed.
Click to expand...

Partly it depends on how well you know and trust the maker of the knife or the company that sells it. I've seen knives that have a thick, heavy blade that seems very strong, but when you look closely there's a skinny little tang running into the handle - an obvious point of failure, and no way even to tell how far into the handle it goes. That's less likely to happen with a high end knife or one by a reputable maker. The point is, with a full tang (what HI calls "chiruwa") at least you can see what you're getting, and that can be reassuring. I don't have that concern with HI knives because (except for some decorative models like the Hanuman) the tang goes all the way through the handle and is peened over at the end, and it's quite thick. More a kangaroo tail rather than a rat tail.

It also depends on whether you're getting one or two khuks as "users" versus starting a collection (one often leads to the other). If it's for a collection, then what appeals to you esthetically is important, and some people really like the looks of the chiruwa style handle. Same thing goes for handle type (wood, horn, bone) and size. A khuk might be way too heavy for regular use, but you might love it as part of a collection. The Giant Chitlangi Bowie is a good example. Another would be the Falcata.

I like chiruwa type handles but the only really practical advantage I can see is that if the handle breaks in the field you can do a quick and dirty fix by wrapping it with paracord (or any kind of cord). As far as a permanent fix (or rehandling) is concerned, a non-chiruwa handle might be easier to fix or replace, depending on your skill set and available tools.
 
Cool, Thanks guys. I do see a couple good ones there in the list of things people identified. So I learned something, that makes it a good day. None of the items that were identified are ones that matter to me. Notice I specified to me. But at least now I understand why it might matter to someone else.

Thank you

Bawanna, careful Hun, You never know when my hubby might be reading my PMs and like your tag line he is a little guy, with a big knife and an EVIL smile so pretty scary LOL. besides, you said there was 3 more days before she gets back. Plenty of time to hide any evidence of MABEL being around ;)
 
I figure the punishment can't be no worse than a new knife. I don't dwell on the negative.

Tell the little guy it was just a joke, I've never even met any of my cyber brides and you rejected me then so he's got nothing to worry about.

I'm building up my courage to ask Auntie to be my cyber bride. She'll be the first one I've actually met and I think we love each other, at least she tolerates me, that's close enough.
 
I'm on the road at the moment, so I can't. But you could use the search function and see pictures of a mind blowing Kukri :-)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top