Best Sharpener for a noob

minimalist said:
What whetstone should I be looking at? Is that all I'd need? I might be leaning toward a sharpmaker but my mind is still open to other things.

I should add I'm very willing to learn and teach myself. I just want the most value out of a sharpener. Sharpest knives for a modest amount of money.
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I don't know your age, but If you have elderly relatives who perhaps have a workshop or workbench. Look around, I have found some of my best stones in a relatives house. However, you will have to restore them, which is simple and is as followed;

1) boil for a 30 mins in a pot
2) glue 250 sand paper to a piece of wood and sand the stone down until it is flat. A lot of old stones may have dips in the face from sharpening.
3) wash in sink with light brush and dish soap to remove any leftover oil.

Also when sharpening don't use 3-in-1 oil or spit. Use Honing oil or water, but preferably honing oil, water makes a mess. To clean up just wash in sink with dish soap.
 
I.N.F.K said:
I don't know your age, but If you have elderly relatives who perhaps have a workshop or workbench. Look around, I have found some of my best stones in a relatives house. However, you will have to restore them, which is simple and is as followed;

1) boil for a 30 mins in a pot
2) glue 250 sand paper to a piece of wood and sand the stone down until it is flat. A lot of old stones may have dips in the face from sharpening.
3) wash in sink with light brush and dish soap to remove any leftover oil.

Also when sharpening don't use 3-in-1 oil or spit. Use Honing oil or water, but preferably honing oil, water makes a mess. To clean up just wash in sink with dish soap.
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That's definitely not an option. I'd have to buy them.
 
minimalist said:
Will those fit in the sharpmaker? Pardon my ignorance but I've never even heard of ruby stones. I was going to ask in another thread how to fix my zt edge but I guess I don't need to. They will fix what what I described above?
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The ruby stones will fit. I've purchased them and used them. In my opinion, they're ok, not the fastest cutters. I think if you would be better off to get the diamond sharpmaker stones if you really needed to reprofile. Or you could send your knife to users such as knifenut (Jason) or Richard J and have them re-establish the bevel where you then can maintain it with just a strop or sharpmaker.
 
I sharpen freehand only. I no longer have a sharpmaker.

If you really want to get into freehand sharpening and realize that you'll have a learning curve, then buy some stones. If you don't want to learn to sharpen and just want to keep an edge in shape, then buy a Sharpmaker.
 
minimalist said:
That's definitely not an option. I'd have to buy them.
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Well since you don't know if you would like using a whetstone. I would reccomend that you go to whomever sells a decent amount of quality knives (not walmart), and buy a cheap stone around $30. Maybe a diamond stone, which uses the same technique as a whetstone, but without the mess. In which case I would reccomend a Smith's fine diamond stone. You can get them at lowes for like $30. If you feel you like using a stone, then you can think about getting a quality whetstone.

Yay!!! my 300th post
 
I agree that the sharpmaker is a good system . If you want to learn how to free hand read the sticky in the maintenance thread and start with a high grit stone like the Spyderco ceramic stone. That way you can get the feel of things and not remove a lot of material really fast.You can also check out the paper wheel system but if you go that route practice on you friends knife :D Here is a good vid on that Spyderco ceramic stone.
[video=youtube_share;DmrQZCTOoWI]http://youtu.be/DmrQZCTOoWI[/video]
 
Well, I'm officially feeling a little overwhelmed. That Spyderco 306UF stone looks good, but it's $90! I mean, will that cut it for me? My knives are new.

I'm actually considering the Sharpmaker and the 306UF stone. I wouldn't get the Diamond rods or the ultra fine for the sharpmaker.
 
Get the basic Sharpmaker set, a few cheap paring knives, and watch the DVD. Then go to work. After you've done a couple of good edges, you will actually understand more about what happens when you sharpen a knife with any system.

Then come back to this forum, Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment, which is where I just moved your thread. Read some of the threads about the basics of sharpening. You will then understand a bit more.

Then turn the Sharpmaker base over and lay the coarse rods in the two long grooves. You now have a simple whetstone. Practice, practice, practice. :)
 
I would vote for the Lansky Diamond Deluxe plus the Ceramic Extra Fine and Sapphire Hones. The Sharpmaker can touch up like a dream, but the Lansky can repair, reprofile, sharpen, and touch up. Just my opinion. And yes I have both systems (Sharpmaker with Ultra Fine Rods). BTW, the 306UF is the same grit as the Sharpmaker Ultra Fine Rods, just incase you didn't realize.
 
What Esav and most of the others in this thread recommended. Sharpmaker converts to a whetstone and offers lots of options. BTW, you can find them on (( not a paid BF Dealer )) for under $55.
 
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Bladenoobie1 said:
The ruby stones will fit. I've purchased them and used them. In my opinion, they're ok, not the fastest cutters. I think if you would be better off to get the diamond sharpmaker stones if you really needed to reprofile. Or you could send your knife to users such as knifenut (Jason) or Richard J and have them re-establish the bevel where you then can maintain it with just a strop or sharpmaker.
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There's no need for that. Just clamp on sandpaper of your choice of grit to the rods with a couple of binder clips and you'll be good to go:thumbup:.
 
If you're going to go with the SharpMaker system (and the way this thread is going, it looks like that's the consensus), then definitely get the diamond rods, which you'll have to purchase separately. You won't regret it. I say the SharpMaker is incomplete without the diamonds if you plan to use it as your primary sharpening set up.

Don't use the SharpMaker system the way they tell you to in the DVD they include with the system. It's way too slow that way. Use it the CrimsonTideShooter (jdavis882 on YouTube) way:

[youtube]-MHe_8wTHmg[/youtube]

Once you get the technique down, you can completely reprofile an edge, provided you have the diamond rods:

[youtube]jlUuKpX-z-o[/youtube]
 
Magnaminous_G said:
If you're going to go with the SharpMaker system (and the way this thread is going, it looks like that's the consensus), then definitely get the diamond rods, which you'll have to purchase separately. You won't regret it. I say the SharpMaker is incomplete without the diamonds if you plan to use it as your primary sharpening set up.

Don't use the SharpMaker system the way they tell you to in the DVD they include with the system. It's way too slow that way. Use it the CrimsonTideShooter (jdavis882 on YouTube) way:

[youtube]-MHe_8wTHmg[/youtube]

Once you get the technique down, you can completely reprofile an edge, provided you have the diamond rods:

[youtube]jlUuKpX-z-o[/youtube]
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Thanks for the advice. I've seen his videos before which are really good. I'm leaning toward the sharpmaker but I'm also considering DMT stones(coarse, fine, extra fine in 2x6) as well as the spyderco ultrafine benchstone in 2x8. I'm pretty stuck right now. Not sure which to choose and not sure if anything is missing from the DMT/Spyderco setup.
 
Another vote for the Sharpmaker. When I first started I tried stones, then the Lansky system and most recently the Sharpmaker.

If I knew then what I know now, I would gave skipped the stones and Lansky system and gotten the Sharpmaker.

All three options are unique in their own function, but if you're just looking to maintain a sharp edge, then go Sharpmaker.

After all, 7 out of 10 dentists recommend the Sharpmaker.[video=youtube;28dHENDuFu8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=28dHENDuFu8[/video]
 
First, you should recognize that if you get into sharpening, it is a road you are just starting on. The sharpmaker is the best place to start. Begin with the basic set; you can do wonders with it.

Also, you have solid, dependable knives from top companies. Unless they are in terrible shape (doesn't sound like it), you don't need much else to get a very good edge without much training or effort.

If you are satisfied there, you have a great system. Done.

If you are hooked on sharpening (as many are), you can then (as in later on) move on: diamond rods for reprofiling, ultra fine rods for a super edge (my favorites), and then stones and strops. Stones are a big step; some folks just have the knack and pick it up in a snap, others take a long time and a lot of practice to get it down. Just fyi, I'm in the later camp, and still getting the hang of it.

Think of this as a road. The sharpmaker is the right place to start. How far down the road, how much you want to spend and how much time you want to put into sharpening is up to you.
 
Consider adding a coarse/extra coarse DMT Diasharp 6" stone instead of the Spyderco diamond rods if you need more serious cutting quickly. Between the two, I feel I've got all my bases covered for what I want and need in sharpening.
 
The sharpmaker is a popular tool and for good reasons. I myself though had a hard time using them and now I only save it for serrated edges. For everything else, I try to freehand. On my sharpmaker I believe one of my 40 degree rod holders is a tad off from the other one resulting in inconsistency. That aside though it is really easy to use and is good for a starter sharpening kit.
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
. . . On my sharpmaker I believe one of my 40 degree rod holders is a tad off from the other one resulting in inconsistency. That aside though it is really easy to use and is good for a starter sharpening kit.
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If that's the case, just use one side and turn the knife around instead of switching stones. Just a suggestion . . .

:D
 
This is how i sharpen my knives-
DMT Coarse Stone
DMT Fine Stone
DMT Extra Fine Stone
Spyderco 306 UF Stone
Strop
Look up Jdavis882 on youtube he helped me learn to free hand.
 
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