best stabby and thick bladed knife.

wensynch said:
Still haven't found tools from Asia as precise,
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If that's the case, you haven't had the chance to check out the Spyderco's from the Taichung plant in Taiwan.
They meet and in some cases exceed the quality of the USA plant.
 
stabman said:
If that's the case, you haven't had the chance to check out the Spyderco's from the Taichung plant in Taiwan.
They meet and in some cases exceed the quality of the USA plant.
Click to expand...

Very true.

Based on my experience, I'd even go further by replacing the word "some" with "most" in the sentence: "They meet and in some cases exceed the quality of the USA plant."
 
I'd be more concerned about the type of lock if i was stabbing something into a wall. My Hinderers are tough as nails as far as construction and blade, but i'd definitely think twice about stabbing a frame or liner lock through anything tough. There is always a chance for lock slip even on good geometry, you need to be 100% conscious about squeezing that lockbar into the tang as you stab on a frame or liner lock. Unless you dont care about your fingers. Benchmade 275 or a well built offering with a triad lock would give you higher odds at keeping your fingers. OR a fixed blade.
 
Mick_1KRR said:
I'd be more concerned about the type of lock if i was stabbing something into a wall. My Hinderers are tough as nails as far as construction and blade, but i'd definitely think twice about stabbing a frame or liner lock through anything tough. There is always a chance for lock slip even on good geometry, you need to be 100% conscious about squeezing that lockbar into the tang as you stab on a frame or liner lock. Unless you dont care about your fingers. Benchmade 275 or a well built offering with a triad lock would give you higher odds at keeping your fingers. OR a fixed blade.
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True, but I did see a guy on instagram stab a grayman satu through a sheet of steel and there was no blade play, tip damage, and barely any edge damage to his satu.
Not saying thats the case with every knife but I'm really looking into that grayman dua
 
Buy a fixed blade with a good guard then grind the tip off cuz your going to break it anyway then stab away. Alternatively you could get a knife that cuts stuff then use a pry bar for prying or carry a multitool which gives you a blade and some prying tools all in one package. Just my $0.02
 


Look into Busse, something in INFI steel if you want a pry bar you can shave with. They're made for hard use, and carry a great, no questions asked warranty for the lifetime of the blade.

Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard also carry the warranty, and are also tough as all get out.
 
check out the Spyderco's from the Taichung plant in Taiwan.
They meet and in some cases exceed the quality of the USA plant.
Click to expand...

YUP

I am having a great time with my Spyderco Manix LW S110V but when I got it and looked at the "plastic" handle (which is just great over all and I appreciated it for the light weight and strength) . . .
any way I could see where they took the halves of the handle off the tree that it was molded with and it was like : "seriously . . . you couldn't touch that on a sander and or polish it to blend it into the handle ? Just break it off and sort of rub it on the side walk Huh ?" I mean in some ways that is a world class ground breaking knife . . . USA craftsman dudes . . . show a little pride in what you are doing.
PS: Maybe I am over reacting . . . it would be hard to blend the finish without polishing or texturing the whole back edge of the handle and that would take off the molded in jimping on the edge of the handle.
 
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The Beast...designed pretty much as a forced entry tool...

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http://www.tactical-life.com/knives/hoffner-knives-new-fixed-blade-is-a-beast/
 
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