Best store bought lube (for knives)

I've used all types of oils. Right now I'm experimenting with Nano Oil. It's okay, but I don't feel like it's the miracle oil that many claim it to be. It performs, for me, like any old oil. Of the lubes that I've used, I prefer either Weapon Shield or Slip 2000 EWL.
 
Just so you know, Hoppes IS mineral oil, with a perfume/scent in it.

SLIP 2000 claimed to be non-toxic.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
It's a knife-what kind of "performance" do you need?
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I just want a more slick oil. Mineral oil is good, but mid range at best. When I am using a high end knife with bearings, I should treat it properly and give it a high end lubricant.
 
Breakfree CLP is good, but put some in a clear bottle and see what happens. Teflon is all at the bottom after it sits, and it can take a lot of vigorous shaking to get the teflon to remix, and one does not really know if it's mixed right or not when it's in the black bottle.

My local Walmart sells the Hoppes Elite gun oil and cleaner, and from what I read it is made by M-Pro7 for Hoppes. Don't use it myself, but worth taking a look. Remoil is cheap at Walmart for the small bottle, and a little goes a long way. Never had a problem with it.
 
Big D1 said:
Breakfree CLP is good, but put some in a clear bottle and see what happens. Teflon is all at the bottom after it sits, and it can take a lot of vigorous shaking to get the teflon to remix, and one does not really know if it's mixed right or not when it's in the black bottle.

My local Walmart sells the Hoppes Elite gun oil and cleaner, and from what I read it is made by M-Pro7 for Hoppes. Don't use it myself, but worth taking a look. Remoil is cheap at Walmart for the small bottle, and a little goes a long way. Never had a problem with it.
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M-pro 7 is a great product, [on my firearms] I used frog lube and/or good old CLP for years till I kept hearing about m-pro 7 at the range from my buddies, I couldn't believe it was any better than my standard stuff considering Walmart was the distributor for it so I emailed the company and requested a sample and the guy I emailed with personally hand wrote out my order, wrote a little personalized note and overnighted me a package with a full 8oz bottle of oil and a 4oz spray bottle of their special copper-etching cleaner.

Between the frog lube I had left and the 8oz of m-pro 7 I won't need to purchase any more gun oil for awhile but I'll definitely be buying m-pro 7 from now on. (Note the product is on par with CLP IMO, maybe not any better but just as good and their pre-sale service is top rate).
 
Break free is in sporting goods at Wal-Mart by the gun cleaning kits.

Shake well before each use.
 
break free stinks.

Slip2000.Very light order
Weaponsheild.... FP10 smell like cinnamon
Frog lube...Read directions. Minty fresh
Tetra
Ballistol . Anise..black liquorish

But all are better than RemOil..
 
Picked up a bottle of DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant, and it works pretty great on bearings. Sadly it doesn't smell the best (says the fumes are toxic, but me still think good :) ). Very messy to apply, but the results are good for it being quite cheap. I would suggest getting a precision applicator or a box of cotton swabs to apply it.

I should add that the DuPont stuff I got is manufactured by Finish Line, and is also a kind of Teflon suspension like Breakfree is. A bit cheaper too.
 
Big D1 said:
Breakfree CLP is good, but put some in a clear bottle and see what happens. Teflon is all at the bottom after it sits, and it can take a lot of vigorous shaking to get the teflon to remix, and one does not really know if it's mixed right or not when it's in the black bottle.
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One trick is to drop a small bolt or nut in the bottle to agitate the teflon that drops to the bottom.

I tend to like just about all lubes from WD-40 and 3-in-1 to the mid-range and spendy stuff. They all work more or less the same, though there are small differences in lubricity and viscosity, and sometimes big differences in price. If you have a truly dry knife pivot, gun, door hinge or anything, any kind of lube will seem great. But it is sort of fun playing with the different flavors.
 
Tri-Flow contains micron size particles made from Teflon or Rem lube also contains Teflon. I put Tri-flow in a clear needle tip plastic bottle so you can see any settling on the bottom. Both work very well for me.
 
OK so the Silicone Teflon works great. I found something even better. White Lightning Easy Lube (blue bottle). Picked up a little bottle for $5, but did not have an easy time finding it. After not getting any help from employees (best response I got was "I have some white lightning at home, but it isn't the same thing"), I was aimlessly wandering through the bike section and saw it sitting there. It is apparently a chain lube (hence why I couldn't find it), and it has made my already great action on my bearing folder superb. They are noisier to open because it is a dry film, but I have to try to get less than full opening. The only downside is that it smells kind of bad, and is a little messy to apply (but it dries in moments so there is little issue).
 
I'm a huge fan of M-Pro 7!
There was a point in time where I was on the hunt for a good lube/grease for my knife pivots. So I tried I tried a few different product types. I really didn't like any of them. Teflon provided no lubricity and made my blades stick, greases worked well but attracted a lot of dirt/dust/lint etc, and you're right the oils would run and cause a mess. So I started doing some research online and Tuf-Glide, BM Blue Lube, and CRK grease were popular and I was willing to try them. I don't remember where online but someone was raving about M-Pro 7 and I was sold on it. Better yet, it was available at my local gun shop while the others were only online. Tried it for the first time and it was literally miraculous. It has characteristics of all 3 products types of products I tried originally. It has the water/dirt repelling characteristics of Teflon, the lubricity and staying power of grease, and the easy application of oil. It is an oil, but it's thick and doesn't run. Well it does make a bit of a mess if you apply it without taking your knife apart, but clean up any excess with a q-tip and it never runs down from the pivot after that. And it never dries up. I've taken apart knives that I lubed using the M-Pro 7 and found the pivots still nicely coated with the oil, even after a few months. I call it miraculous because I first tried it out a Paramilitary 2 that suffered from terrible blade play. The only way I could get rid of it was to tighten the pivot to the point where the blade was unable to be flicked open. After a couple drops of the oil, the blade would fling open as if the pivot was loose.
It's awesome stuff! Trust me you won't want to use anything else again.
 
I have an update on White Lightning. It is absolutely amazing for bearings, but Silicone Teflon edges it out for washers. It isn't bad, but there are better options. I would love to see how it works on something like CRK washers. I also plan on giving fluorinated grease a shot too.
 
Can't recommend this stuff highly enough.
I use it on the pivots of all my high end folders and rifle bolts.
Only a very thin coating is required to transform gliding on metal to metal bearing surfaces.
Contains Molybdenum Disulfide, will work at extreme temperatures and doesn't seem to attract crud.
Would also give WD40 a big swerve, it is a water repellant and NOT a lubricant, treat it more like a cleaning solvent and you won't go far wrong.

http://www.sentrysolutions.com/product/91050.html

http://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
 
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Big D1 said:
Breakfree CLP is good, but put some in a clear bottle and see what happens. Teflon is all at the bottom after it sits, and it can take a lot of vigorous shaking to get the teflon to remix, and one does not really know if it's mixed right or not when it's in the black bottle.

My local Walmart sells the Hoppes Elite gun oil and cleaner, and from what I read it is made by M-Pro7 for Hoppes. Don't use it myself, but worth taking a look. Remoil is cheap at Walmart for the small bottle, and a little goes a long way. Never had a problem with it.
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Ditto on Break Free CLP (RemOil is very similar). It is what the military used for years, and may still be using. Corrosion in guns is much more critical, and costly, in firearms than for knives, so it is taken very seriously, especially if your butt is on the line.

Here is a great test of various lubes. Breakfree does multiple jobs not just lube. It is a cleaner. It also leaves a good protective film in addition to being a excellect lube. You can get it at a very reasonable cost at most gun shops and sporting goods stores with a gun department.

I have guns valued into the thousands and use it on all my beauties, with storage in plastic bags made for gun storage. No problems in over 40 years of use.

I'm sure there are other good products, but I stick with what I know works, and doesn't break the bank. Being a synthetic it will not dry out and gum up like a conventional oil.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

Here is a good test review of lube, corrosion protection products.
 
I'm a huge fan of gun oils on any metal on metal applications. I used Hoppes until I discovered synthetic oils. Synthetic gun oils seem to last forever, don't smell and free up any parts that are binding. My second choice would be a good CLP like Break Free. You don't need much, so be sure to wipe off any excess so your knife doesn't "print" in your pocket.
 
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