Best Survival knife

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Saber cat- I couldn’t agree more. The SAKs I have in different bags/vehicles are the Swiss champ-3 of them actually. Also a basic 3 layer with a saw I have in my pocket. If needed, I could survive on my Swiss champ! Watch Felix Immler. That individual has amazing ability like no other I’ve ever seen. He makes all the other backyard You tube survivalist look dismal... And he dose it with a simple Swiss Army knife. A set of Ski’s to a Raft, A Shelter and fire to a broom and a crossbow- plus so much more....all made from a SAK. Truly proving the greatest Tool in a survival situation is the mind.
 
Felix certainly is enjoyable to watch. Personally I like how enthusiastic he is. His videos can get addicting very very quickly.

Of course a fixed blade does make sense to have around.
I still have to find one that really meets my needs and that I can justify.
 
lbrf2020wimb said:
The knives would be used as the main blade for general camp/heavy chores, and would be used in the northeast and Pacific Northwest, mostly.
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The above is still not enough info to pick between these two knives IMO. I love survival knives - which to me is a knife that is extremely unlikely to break if used in an emergency with the full force of a person with a hammer exerted on it. (Not that it should do this regularly, just be able to withstand it).
I have multiple survival knives of different weights, (along with tomahawks and saws) and when I venture outdoors I have fun deciding which one(s) make the most sense for the trip.
If I’m backpacking without lots of wood processing to do, I’ve already got a bunch of other survival gear in my pack and every ounce matters, so I’ll carry something like the Swamp Rat Mega Swamp Warden, a little slicer, a Silky Saw, and a pocket knife.
Long hike with minimal gear? That’s when I pull out a larger knife that can do more to keep me warm if I get lost, etc.
Car camping? Buckets o’ knives!!
— a slicer needs to slice, a carver needs to carve wood, a survival knife needs to survive...
 
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It’s easy to bring along to many knives. One for each required need. Yet some survival knives can do it all. Look at videos of the Fallkniven f1 knife. Very small size that does it all. Lots of people wouldn’t consider that a “Size of a survival knife” yet there are many who use it like that. If I can keep my Survival knife down to one fixed 6” blade and a edc, I’ve got things under control.
 
I usually carry my F1 and a SAK. Covers most bases for urban survival. If I have my day pak I take with me, I’ll be fine.... With a Fallkniven A1x/U2 and Cold steel shovel.
 
If I could have only one tool it would be the Condor Mini Duku, which is a parang, so maybe not really a knife.
I might take the Bark River Canadian Camp II over the Duku, though I don't own one.
So strictly knives, all Bark River, sorted:

Tundra 3V or the Aurora 2 3V - both are big, sturdy knives, but not too big, not too heavy. They have equally thick stock in 3V, both are high convex, and have equal grip sizes. Both can baton, chop and throw sparks equally well. The blade on the Aurora 2 is about an inch bigger, which might be an advantage. I think the Tundra would be better at skinning.

Bravo 1 LT 3V and the Bravo 1 D2 - these are smaller, but still very capable knives, except I find the Bravo 1 in D2 a bit too heavy for its size and I don't like D2 because I think it chips and rusts easily. So I prefer the Bravo 1 LT in 3V, except I would like the 1.25 or the 1.5 variants even more.

If we are talking knives we don't own, I guess I would consider the Bark River Crusader or the Survivor.
 
For me, it's my Falkniven A1x that I had reground to a full flat grind. I also had it re-handled with gray G10 scales. The work was done by Cardman.

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Please elaborate on cost of this ? As it is exactly what I want to do. Can you explain why the Full flat grind? Also I’m new here- can you provide a Email to contact the person “CardMan”. Greatly appreciate
 
Lnd Crzr said:
Please elaborate on cost of this ? As it is exactly what I want to do. Can you explain why the Full flat grind? Also I’m new here- can you provide a Email to contact the person “CardMan”. Greatly appreciate
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A full flat grind goes all the way from the spine to the edge. Cardman can be found in the knives for sale by makers. You can discuss the costs with him.
 
I appreciate the information- I’ll look him up. What is the benifit of the flat grind compared to factory
 
Lnd Crzr said:
I appreciate the information- I’ll look him up. What is the benifit of the flat grind compared to factory
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It has a much sharper than the factory convex edge and can be sharpened easier. From the factory, there's way too much metal near the edge. Do you own a Falkniven A1x?
 
Yes I have a A1x, Us folder and f1 vg10- had a S1 pro.
Definitely want the Scales changed out for Micarta on A1x. Jumping on spine for thumb maybe and contemplating the Grind you have done. Seems like excellent work Cardman does.
 
Since this is a survival thread- and many Have the Fallkniven A1 and variants- can you elaborate of the edge regrinding.... any chipping or issues? Has that been resolved with reshape of blade and edge. I’m sure I’m not the only one curious about the survival knife I own.
 
An Esee 4/5/6, Carothers FK, Cold Steel SRK/Master Hunter/etc, BM Bushcrafter, many other 4-6 inch blades will work great.
Chopping is for axes I have chopped fire wood with a SRK and a kukri on a camping trip as a kid. It took forever and just wasn’t worth it.

Use the knife for tinder and kindling. Break the bigger stuff between the forks of trees and burn the really big stuff in half.
 
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