Best tool for cutting small branches

I prefer to use a hukari. Perhaps the ugliest thing ever made by man, but pretty damn handy for clearing and pruning work where chainsaws and axes aren't required or cannot be carried due to the weight. Weighs a bit over a pound, 0.2" thick about 9" long blade.

 
I like to use my loapers for around the house and when I know thats what I will be doing else where, very efficient. I would have no problem using my saw on my farmer for branches that size either, just wouldn't want to be cutting alot of branches though. I try to leave the chopping for the lumberjacks if I can, great exercise but terrible when you are trying to conserve energy.
 
A billhook (brushhook) is designed just for whacking away at small branches & tangles. Lighter than hatchets and the curved blade forces good contact & cut.

It's what the Brits have used for centuries to manage hedgerows.

You can get good forged ones from Japanese tool suppliers for around $50, or you can get thinner Fiskars and Woodsman Pals for cheaper.
 
Scottman and possum, I want to know the blade length of the machetes that go through 2-3" pieces in one swing. WOW! I am impressed.
 
chrisaloia said:
Scottman and possum, I want to know the blade length of the machetes that go through 2-3" pieces in one swing. WOW! I am impressed.
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24 inches. Wasn't even sharp either.;) It was a cotton wood sapling but I did swing quite hard.

The problem with saws is that they can bend. My friend and I went out a while ago and used my fiskars saw and he made it look like an accordian. We were able to get it somewhat straight but that fact kind of turned me off to them. I feel that an axe and choppers are more versatile than saws as well.
 
Elen said:
I prefer to use a hukari. Perhaps the ugliest thing ever made by man, but pretty damn handy for clearing and pruning work where chainsaws and axes aren't required or cannot be carried due to the weight. Weighs a bit over a pound, 0.2" thick about 9" long blade.

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That looks like a great bush tool. I would be tempted to round the end to a point and make a knife out of it.

Skam
 
Okay I understand. I thought something was wrong. I have been doing this for quite a while. It took me 11-13 chops and I am pretty good with a machete, but at 13" and a hell of a lot lighter than the corona clipper and shorter the 24". Also I cut mimosa which is a sappy fiberous wood. My ego feels better now.

Yeah, Saws do buckle. I am not anti-saw or anything. I just see machetes as way more efficient.
 
For me, under 1" thick with soft woods, use a machete. I'd use an axe or saw for any hardwood over 1/2" and softwoods over 1" unless you just "have to".
 
There is a misconception out there that a true machette will chop anything and this is not the case. They are not designed for anything but soft grasses, plants and wood in a jungle environment. They will chop hardwood but are very inefficient. I used one last weekend (razor sharp 18 inches) and had to chop 3 times as many strokes to do the job a 7.5 inch blade would due.

My students will be using it on an upcomming course and will draw the same conclusions.

Great for light brush clearing.

Skam
 
It has an 18" blade, but it's not a machete. I don't usually bother specifying around here since it seems so many folks somehow think big knives are bad while machetes are fine. No, my blade swings faster than a machete, which is especially useful in these situations where you can't get a full swing. Just snapping cuts with the wrist will strike with a lot more power than a machete used in similar fashion. This also means it works just as well or better on the light targets too. It also strikes with more power than my old 21" long HI khukri (dui chirra). I haven't run a direct comparison to my Wetterlings hatchet, but from memory it certainly holds its own in the chopping department there at least on wood up to around 7" thick or so.
 
skammer said:
[Machetes] will chop hardwood but are very inefficient. I used one last weekend (razor sharp 18 inches) and had to chop 3 times as many strokes to do the job a 7.5 inch blade would due.
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Skam, could you provide some details here? This does not correlate AT ALL to my experiences, so perhaps I'm just assuming the wrong kind of scenario here...
 
the possum said:
Skam, could you provide some details here? This does not correlate AT ALL to my experiences, so perhaps I'm just assuming the wrong kind of scenario here...
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Its very interesting. I am no physics prof but I beleive it has something to do with inertia of a thin light machette blade vs a heavier chopper. On anything over a half inch (as Rimfire says) and hardwood the machette seems to just glance and not penetrate while a big chopper just rips into the wood.

It just dont bite or sink into wood very well. Soft material it rips through which makes sense as thats what it is 100% designed for. This has to be true to a point as why are there axes for tree felling and splitting and not machettes.

Skam
 
Shotgun said:
24 inches. Wasn't even sharp either.;) It was a cotton wood sapling but I did swing quite hard.

The problem with saws is that they can bend. My friend and I went out a while ago and used my fiskars saw and he made it look like an accordian. We were able to get it somewhat straight but that fact kind of turned me off to them. I feel that an axe and choppers are more versatile than saws as well.
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Many prunning saws are made to cut on the pull only. Trying to push AND pull results in a bent saw. Mighty hard to bend on the pull only.

Saws can also fall victim to too much effort vs. smoothness.

I have used the same folding prunning saw for nine years now - at least monthly. It's spot was formerly held by another that still works - just wanted something new. :o
 
skammer said:
On anything over a half inch (as Rimfire says) and hardwood the machette seems to just glance and not penetrate while a big chopper just rips into the wood.

This has to be true to a point as why are there axes for tree felling and splitting and not machettes.
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If your 18" bladed machete seems to "just glance" off wood over 1/2" thick, there is something seriously wrong with it. Or did you mean 18" overall?

Yes, I'd fully agree that some mass & inertia is needed to chop thick wood, but I've certainly never seen a 7 1/2" bladed knife that could come anywhere close to yer average lookin' machete in the chopping department.
 
skammer said:
That looks like a great bush tool. I would be tempted to round the end to a point and make a knife out of it.

Skam
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It's pretty handy when you have to chop a lot of wood, and it's ridiculously good to baton with if you feel like it. Small trees go down quite fast, and for chopping branches, especially in somewhat hard to reach places, it's a lot handier than an axe or a saw. It's very blade heavy. I thought about working on making it a knife suitable for work beyond chopping, but then I figured I wouldn't use it for anything but chopping or batoning due to the weight anyway.
 
Interesting responses. I guess part of my research is looking at what I'm going to do with the tool and when.

1. I'm looking at this with hiking in mind. I try to practice leave no trace, so I use an alcohol or Esbit stove for my cooking. I like a campfire as much as anyone, but only where there is an established fire ring and there is no burn ban on. My point being, I'm only going to be cutting significant amounts of firewood if I'm in a tight spot.

2. Same case for making traps, snares and other survival crafts. A saw is going to be much more handy for making these items and again, only if I am in a survival situation.

3. Shelter-making is the other concern for survival. I found cutting branches that I would be using to make lean-to and debris type shelters was easy with a saw.

So I'm headed out and want some CYA, but I don't plan on using it unless I'm in trouble. I can't justify hauling a pound or more of steel when 6 ounces will do the job. Keep in mind I'm talking about a tool in addition to a good knife in the 4" range and some small tools like an SAK Classic and razors blades in my PSK. Other than weight, I do have misgivings of using a chopping tool when I'm already up against a hard spot. Imagine you are tired, dehydrated, hypothermic and scared beanless-- my coordination would be doubtful and I'd rather not be barking my shins with some sharp steel!
 
the possum said:
If your 18" bladed machete seems to "just glance" off wood over 1/2" thick, there is something seriously wrong with it. Or did you mean 18" overall?

Yes, I'd fully agree that some mass & inertia is needed to chop thick wood, but I've certainly never seen a 7 1/2" bladed knife that could come anywhere close to yer average lookin' machete in the chopping department.
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Its an 18 inch issue Ontario. I have to swing for the fences to get it to bite hardwood to any real extent, sometimes it even bounces off with just a cut and yes I can shave with it, its so sharp. My knife chopper gouges chunks with little effort on hardwood.

This machette is pretty thin steel and not much weight to it so it doesnt surprise me. I am teaching a course this weekend and will let the students use it and we will see if they get better results.

Skam
 
Skammer, I think a golok fits into both categories. still not as heavy a 1/4"survival knife but not as light as a machete. I see your point.

DaleW, I agree, when I go on a short hike your style combo is what I take. It would perfrom just fine. It is only when we start to ask what is a more efficient tool for chopping or sawing branches/saplings for shelter and other survival related needs, that we have to compare cutting times.
 
If I were cutting 1"-2" branches, I'd take a pair of anvil shears. Much less work than a saw, an axe, or a machete. I keep a pair in my hunting gear for clearing shooting lanes.
 
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