TheCarbideRat
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I would think different steels take different approaches for the mirror finish, correct?
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Best way to remove a black blade coating
- Thread starter Artfully Martial
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i never made it down to white rouge. the black got it pretty smooth. problem was - the smoother it got, a few deep scratches (that i had left behind) showed up. i could start over, or atleast back at 600 grit, but no one seems to really notice them until i tell them to tilt it and what to look for. i can see them, though, so i'm sure i'll eventually do it over.
I'd like to hear more about removing DLC. It's a specialized finsh developed for highly abrasive environments, or for use on parts that cannot tolerate any surface wear. Nissan and Hyundai now use it on their current production flat tappets - eliminating roller tappets and their associated high weight. NASCAR also uses DLC tappets, timing gears, and are currently experimenting with rocker arms with no rollers or bearings to reduce weight. The stuff is that good.
I have a feeling that a plasma sprayed ion bond surface treatment, with RC's approaching diamond and frictional ratings within decimals of teflon, is going to be a real bugger to remove. Black or not, with those qualities improving the performance of any blade, why take it off? Gun owners are paying $200 to have the treatment done to their firearms.
Perhaps buying the plain blade version, or another with a plain blade, and swapping, would be not only easier, but cheaper in the long run. Me, I like TiN/TaN and DLC. What the blade looks like is much less important than how it cuts, and most carbon steel users accept that.
PS a true DLC finish is exactly what you see - the coating is literally a few thousandths thick - and will show a 600 grit, mirror, or stonewash the same. Paints and teflons cover it up.
I have a feeling that a plasma sprayed ion bond surface treatment, with RC's approaching diamond and frictional ratings within decimals of teflon, is going to be a real bugger to remove. Black or not, with those qualities improving the performance of any blade, why take it off? Gun owners are paying $200 to have the treatment done to their firearms.
Perhaps buying the plain blade version, or another with a plain blade, and swapping, would be not only easier, but cheaper in the long run. Me, I like TiN/TaN and DLC. What the blade looks like is much less important than how it cuts, and most carbon steel users accept that.
PS a true DLC finish is exactly what you see - the coating is literally a few thousandths thick - and will show a 600 grit, mirror, or stonewash the same. Paints and teflons cover it up.
TheCarbideRat
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Good post Mr. tirod3, you seem to be current in this matter, I have a some ZT knives with DLC and for some reason I had it in my mind to not mess with the finish but your info just brought that home.
Mr. zignal you and me are on the same page, the 2 knives I posted images of have some deep scratches which don't bother me / guy at the knife store in town said the finishes were perfect [HA, what does he KNOW?] but I will probably re-do them.
Mr. zignal you and me are on the same page, the 2 knives I posted images of have some deep scratches which don't bother me / guy at the knife store in town said the finishes were perfect [HA, what does he KNOW?] but I will probably re-do them.
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I appreciate the hypothetical reach of the performance of coatings, Tirod, but the reality of this particular coating (and the vast majority I've handled) is that it is far from effective (currently). The surface is not smooth, but quite rough. I can rub streaks into the coating just by cutting through a piece of cardboard a single time, in no particularly violent way. I am referring to knives here, not to car parts, which might be great for all I know.
Whatever this stuff is, it couldn't stand up even a second to sandpaper. If I rub my fingers against it for 20 seconds, I can see the black coming off on my fingers.
But, what scares me is two-fold: the thought of refinishing that blade by hand, and particularly, the thought of trying to clean up in those recessed symbols/letters. Man, what a pain....
trying to talk myself into just trying the paint stripper technique this week.
As far as I'm aware, there is no uncoated version of the Offset, or there wasn't when I bought mine. I had a long internal struggle with whether or not to put up with AO and a coating in order to get such a unique blade. I actually got sold because I found one for sale on BF with the gray coating--perhaps the gray coating is different than the DLC?
Whatever this stuff is, it couldn't stand up even a second to sandpaper. If I rub my fingers against it for 20 seconds, I can see the black coming off on my fingers.
But, what scares me is two-fold: the thought of refinishing that blade by hand, and particularly, the thought of trying to clean up in those recessed symbols/letters. Man, what a pain....
trying to talk myself into just trying the paint stripper technique this week.
As far as I'm aware, there is no uncoated version of the Offset, or there wasn't when I bought mine. I had a long internal struggle with whether or not to put up with AO and a coating in order to get such a unique blade. I actually got sold because I found one for sale on BF with the gray coating--perhaps the gray coating is different than the DLC?
TheCarbideRat
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"But, what scares me is two-fold: the thought of refinishing that blade by hand, and particularly, the thought of trying to clean up in those recessed symbols/letters. Man, what a pain...."
That's what sandblasters are for, scope out a machine shop or hot rod place locally, most won't mind at all [I have worked in both] doing a small job, it will take all of 5 minutes. You can even tape off most of the blade if you are reluctant to expose it to the abrasive. Go for it man.
That's what sandblasters are for, scope out a machine shop or hot rod place locally, most won't mind at all [I have worked in both] doing a small job, it will take all of 5 minutes. You can even tape off most of the blade if you are reluctant to expose it to the abrasive. Go for it man.
A roughly finished surface will be the same after stripping - and if a chemical cleaner can remove it, it's probably not DLC to any great degree. It's an expensive process, and not common.
It'd start with 400 grit wet and dry on a hard back sanding block that will hold flat and not round off the lines of the blade. Bead blasting may also work, and will probably clean out the engraving. After all the work is done, you may have removed most of it anyway. A competent blade grinder could probably do all that on a belt and still preserve the lines.
It is fun and interesting to learn when modding someone else's work to suit yourself.
It'd start with 400 grit wet and dry on a hard back sanding block that will hold flat and not round off the lines of the blade. Bead blasting may also work, and will probably clean out the engraving. After all the work is done, you may have removed most of it anyway. A competent blade grinder could probably do all that on a belt and still preserve the lines.
It is fun and interesting to learn when modding someone else's work to suit yourself.
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- Oct 23, 2005
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Just an FYI.
If it's a standard epoxy based finish and not a DLC or Ti based coating then using a solvent like Jasco's Paint and Epoxy Gel Remover which removes it very, very fast. I removed the coating on my older CS SRK in about 5 - 10 minutes. It started bubbling immediately upon application! Used a plastic putty knife to scrape it away (so it wouldn't scratch the steel). Works a real treat! Give it a shot if you haven't tried it!
If it's a standard epoxy based finish and not a DLC or Ti based coating then using a solvent like Jasco's Paint and Epoxy Gel Remover which removes it very, very fast. I removed the coating on my older CS SRK in about 5 - 10 minutes. It started bubbling immediately upon application! Used a plastic putty knife to scrape it away (so it wouldn't scratch the steel). Works a real treat! Give it a shot if you haven't tried it!
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Maybe, but I can't imagine why. What steels and what different non-mechanical approach.
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Jasco works fine on Busse so should remove the coating on a Scrapyard.
I don't know if the steel will take a patina.
TheCarbideRat
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WD-40 will remove light rust instantly and will preserve the surface if you update the coating every 2 or 3 months when in storage, a blade not in longterm storage: as long as you don't leave it lying on the ground outside for a week should be fine. 
Here's my Becker removed the epoxy coating and haven't had any rust issues. I belt sanded it.
Here's my Becker removed the epoxy coating and haven't had any rust issues. I belt sanded it.
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I'm considering Jansco-ing my BK7 and either forcing a patina or applying Clear Coat without the black, textured stuff that it comes coated with. I don't dislike the factory finish, but it is starting to come off from chopping, etc.; also, it just seems like a fun project. Of those of you who have done this or something similar, how many of you have regretted it? Also, is Clear Coat food safe? I would hope so, since Ethan Becker loves to cook, but perhaps a bare blade would be better for that.