I have several BG-42 CS 110s, including the jigged/fg water buffalo scaled, a pair of 20th Anniversary, and an el-cheapo - $84 w s/h CS with Fiji orange - all with NS bolsters.
I ended up with two 20th Anniv closeouts because I bought one for my son for Christmas - who informed me he didn't like the 110 - so I had to keep it... poor me!
I think there is a reason a high end user, like CRK, left BG-42 for S30V. Was it availability - or suitability? Seriously - a different heat treat for the hard ball bearing steel vs the designed from the get-go as a cutlery steel, CR made his choice. He has since started converting over to S35VN... gotta be a message there. From my limited experience - at least with the Spyderco Sharpmaker's white files - the S30V is easier to re-edge to a servceable edge - BG-42 aint fun! Oddly, the newer Bohler steels, like M390 and N690, at least one of which was made initially for fine injection molding plastics dies, are also easier to re-edge. I have a couple of S35VN knives now - but I haven't needed to re-edge them - yet.
Of course, the easiest to re-edge - all the way to a hair-splitter - is Buck's 420HC. Obviously, it doesn't hold it like CPM154 or S30V. My only 'bad' experience with S30V was on a Gerber Freeman in stag - the original, possibly too thin, edge
rolled while whittling some green soft maple. Resharpened, it is fine now. I guess I prefer S30V over all steels for general use, although those Austrian steels are catching up. I can take or leave BG-42 - pretty much like I do D2, which is actually less tolerant of moisture exposure. I doubt I'd buy a Buck in BG-42... unless it was a 124, of course! YMMV.
Stainz