BG-42 will not get sharp

No, there are no glints. The edge looks perfect. There is no damage, chips, rolls or dull spots.

There are no burrs, either. The Manix S30V is my EDC and could be resharpened. I can sharpen S30V just fine. I can sharpen the BG-42 up to a point, and then it gets no sharper.
 
If you want you can send it to me for testing and sharpening! I will send it back after I have done a very good check of the steel.

RickJ
 
Perhaps you should create a wider secondary bevel when sharpening. This is what I've done with my Millie.
 
beluga said:
Perhaps you should create a wider secondary bevel when sharpening. This is what I've done with my Millie.
Click to expand...

I already suggested that a couple times in the thread. Like you at least it is worth a try and any miniscule burr that is impossible to find without really high magnification will probably disappear if it is there with only a few very light strokes per side at a few degrees per side more than the main sharpening was done at.

Mike
 
I've found that when I get that happening to me, putting a slightly rougher edge works pretty well. Either that, or giving the edge that extra bite with a ceramic rod free hand. Ceramics work wonders for that final edge. I DO use a strop with compound...I DO use high grit stones and sand paper, but I've found ceramic can put a wicked finishing edge on a knife that wears pretty well. Especially on high performance steels like yours.
 
Steels with a high carbon content seem to do very well with a lower grit edge. If you were to look at it under a microscope it looks like a micro saw. Pretty cool, makes it slice very aggressively.
 
Just to close this out. I again painted the edge with a Sharpie and scraped it off with the Sharpmaker stones planted at 30 degrees. The stones scraped the edge clean, except when I looked very closely and could see a very thin line left on the tip edge on one side of the blade. So one side of the blade had a steeper angle at the very tip of the edge.

I reprofiled the edge to 30 degrees with a coarse diamond rod. It took quite a while. Finally, I got rid of the last of the Sharpie paint and went through medium, fine and extra fine stones.

The blade shaves and slices paper well.

Here's a drawing of what I think the blade edge looked like and the reason I couldn't slice paper very well. The black lines are the actual blade angles. The penciled in tip is where the blade should have been. This is exaggerated to illustrate the point.

DSC01374.jpg
 
Seems to happen a lot, especially if one freehands. I've learned that light pressure is best to get that deliciously sharp edge working.
 
The sharpie comes to the rescue to explain why you were getting a burr. Now you are all set for 15 per side edges, but your sharpening will go way faster if you thin the backbevel more and get where 15 degrees only puts a tiny microbevel on the edge (sharpening at 20 per side now would accomplish the same thing). On high wear resistance steels it is much easier to sharpen a tiny strip of steel than the full bevel, especially on a Sharpmaker where the rods can load quickly.

Mike
 
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