BG ASH-1 Meets Wicked Edge

I have been viewing these threads especially Rob's pictures and have had the WE in my shopping cart for a few weeks now. The only thing holding me back (besides the price) is that I don't understand the differences between the pro pack 1 and 2 besides a few extra items. I'm just curious about the almost doubled cost and I'm not sure what you get for the extra money that justifies the extra expense. I'd appreciate it if one of the WE veterans could help me out, if you don't mind me picking your brain and have some experience please pm me.
 
Thanks for viewing the threads brother and I assure you that with patience, attention to detail, and a careful consistent touch you'll be able to produce results unlike anything else out there.

Now as to the difference between the Pro Pack 1 vs 2 ---- it's actually a big difference. The Ball Bearing Joints are majorly upgraded with the Pro Pack 2 --- it's more consistent and more precise. There's less play and you're able to get lower angles. Furthermore -- you can make .05 degree micro adjustments. That's a pretty significant detail for me and those that are particular about their angles/adjustments

I warn you though ---- it's not at all as easy as it looks. The patience required to totally reprofile a Busse knife is real and a big deal. However, if you can be patient --- your results have the potential to be extraordinary.

I also recommend buying a Sharp Maker and having it ready to touch up your edges after heavy use of your knife. Whenever you're ready for a perfect edge again or whenever the edge/shoulders get too obtuse --- throw it back at the Wicked Edge.
 
WE sounds like its great to reprofile edges and get rid of "Shoulders"
But, if I may ask
what would you guys recommend using to bring the edge back to life between the trips (use).
Eventually i plan to get WE, but in the mean time i need some i can make few knives sharp again.
P.S.
i got a guy used to get some of my knives sharp for me, finally last week i had him sharpen one of the ASH-1's, That thing came back with damn near a recurve in the blade, that was the wake up call for me to get a sharpening system.
what is it they say ? U want it done right.... Doit Ur Self.
Im sorry for jacking Ur thread Ben.
 
TheMtnMan said:
WE sounds like its great to reprofile edges and get rid of "Shoulders"
But, if I may ask
what would you guys recommend using to bring the edge back to life between the trips (use).
Eventually i plan to get WE, but in the mean time i need some i can make few knives sharp again.
P.S.
i got a guy used to get some of my knives sharp for me, finally last week i had him sharpen one of the ASH-1's, That thing came back with damn near a recurve in the blade, that was the wake up call for me to get a sharpening system.
what is it they say ? U want it done right.... Doit Ur Self.
Im sorry for jacking Ur thread Ben.
Click to expand...

The Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition should serve you well once you get the hang of it --- also the sharp maker with diamond rod add on would work well in the mean time too.
 
I use my WSKO on pretty much all my blades and have been more than happy with the results, I carry a small strop and a steel for sorting out edges in the field. The steel works especially well on INFI as it is mostly about standing and edge back up as opposed to taking metal off, I draw the knife up the steel away from the edge and not down into the edge BTW.
 
WSKO i almost got that one few times lol
I think its still in my shopping cart on A....com
 
I'm a kalamazoo belt sharpener myself, but I occasionally think about trying out one of these Wicked Edges systems. I have 2 questions for the wicked crew here.

1. the web page states "maximum clamping width is 3/16″ Does that mean it won't accommodate blades thicker than 3/16th? cause thats over half of my Busses. Is there some modification or work around?

2. Anyone seen or used the "Gen 3 Pro" is it worth the price premium over the older systems?

Thanks in advance :)
 
TheMtnMan said:
WE sounds like its great to reprofile edges and get rid of "Shoulders"
But, if I may ask
what would you guys recommend using to bring the edge back to life between the trips (use).
Eventually i plan to get WE, but in the mean time i need some i can make few knives sharp again.
P.S.
i got a guy used to get some of my knives sharp for me, finally last week i had him sharpen one of the ASH-1's, That thing came back with damn near a recurve in the blade, that was the wake up call for me to get a sharpening system.
what is it they say ? U want it done right.... Doit Ur Self.
Im sorry for jacking Ur thread Ben.
Click to expand...

On a knife that is already sharp that just needs touched up I use one of the little white ceramic sharpening sticks with the wood handle. Not had to yet but the WE using just the high grit stones or strops set on the same angle it was first sharpened on would work great to touch edges up. I have been keeping a log of what angles my blades are sharpened at so I do not have to find the angle again.
 
mach 5 said:
I'm a kalamazoo belt sharpener myself, but I occasionally think about trying out one of these Wicked Edges systems. I have 2 questions for the wicked crew here.

1. the web page states "maximum clamping width is 3/16″ Does that mean it won't accommodate blades thicker than 3/16th? cause thats over half of my Busses. Is there some modification or work around?

2. Anyone seen or used the "Gen 3 Pro" is it worth the price premium over the older systems?

Thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...

Mine will work on blades over 3/16. I bought the 300.00 basic kit at Blade. It came with a longer screw for the clamp for wider blades. You do have to add a couple degrees on the right side to make up for the blade thickness as only the one side of the clamp moves. Most folders you may not have to worry about it at all or at least no more than 1 degree. I did 22 degrees left side and 24 degrees right side on my BA-E2 to get the angles right. I just move the right side angle out however many degrees that equals the blade thickness.
 
mach 5 said:
I'm a kalamazoo belt sharpener myself, but I occasionally think about trying out one of these Wicked Edges systems. I have 2 questions for the wicked crew here.

1. the web page states "maximum clamping width is 3/16″ Does that mean it won't accommodate blades thicker than 3/16th? cause thats over half of my Busses. Is there some modification or work around?

2. Anyone seen or used the "Gen 3 Pro" is it worth the price premium over the older systems?

Thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...

I think the gen 2 you can sharpen up to 0.25" by default, but you can buy longer vice screws and be able to sharpen thicker blades. The 3/16" is for the Gen 3, but I believe they have an upgrade you can get for that too to sharpen thicker knives (at least it was in the works 6 months ago). The gen 3 is a nice clamp, but for me it's not worth the extra cost. If I was sharpening for a living it may be, but not for the amount that I use the WE. The clamp with the 2 screws is still very nice and secure, it just takes a few seconds longer to setup.
 
Andy the Aussie said:
I use my WSKO on pretty much all my blades and have been more than happy with the results, I carry a small strop and a steel for sorting out edges in the field. The steel works especially well on INFI as it is mostly about standing and edge back up as opposed to taking metal off, I draw the knife up the steel away from the edge and not down into the edge BTW.
Click to expand...

Does that mean that INFI makes micro-folds easily? How closed an angle have you heard of INFI being ground to, and still hold up chopping wood without visible damage?

To me a chopping edge standard is around 12 per side, with only gradual dulling, but no visually detectable damage in hundreds of chops (even with the nail-grabbing method) on dried Maple. D-2 and 440B/C will do it.

Gaston
 
A stray that posts in other forums that Busse's are overrated, yet comes here anyways.
 
I've said it before --- I'll say it again --- let him send me one of his mythical 440B/C knives --- I'll find a Busse knife that as close to the same geometry (blade profile) --- I'll put a 19 degree per side edge on both and see how they fair
 
INFI is made of all that you hope to be Gaston, as such it will always be out of your reach. 12 degrees is stupid, i can't say that any nicer.
 
When you use the sharp maker doesn't only have two angles you can sharpen? Do you sharpen only at those two angles on the wicked edge?
 
breavis5694 said:
INFI is made of all that you hope to be Gaston, as such it will always be out of your reach. 12 degrees is stupid, i can't say that any nicer.
Click to expand...

So if I understand well: 12 degrees is stupid when all you have is INFI. Good to know.

I'll just have to avoid all these Busse chopping videos where a 28 ounces blade goes pat-pat-pat:o... With a noodle-handled 17 ounces Trailmaster surging ahead... Impressive stuff...

Gaston
 
Gaston444 said:
So if I understand well: 12 degrees is stupid when all you have is INFI. Good to know.

I'll just have to avoid all these Busse chopping videos where a 28 ounces blade goes pat-pat-pat:o... With a noodle-handled 17 ounces Trailmaster surging ahead... Impressive stuff...

Gaston
Click to expand...
Honestly Gaston, I feel bad for you. You troll the forums looking to start arguments and try to inform people of the superiority of your Randall's to every other knife. I saw you try to do it on the Survive forum, no none took the bait. So now your back here trying.
Didn't you learn the last time you came in here and Cobalt spanked you?
 
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