bi-metal blade life expectancy???

NickWheeler

NickWheeler

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
9,437
I've been using Lennox Diemaster 14/18 TPI blades in my little 4X6 Jet bandsaw for quite awhile now.

They cut well, but they don't last at all (for me). Now if I were abusing them, I wouldn't question it. But I DON'T. I don't try to rush the saw with heavy cuts, I don't put lateral stress on the blade. I have the blade tension set where the Jet rep told me to.

I don't even use it very much. I cut my 416 guard material with it, cut accordians into damascus billets with it on occasion, and some ss bartstock. Most everything that I cut to length I use my chop-saw.

I just busted a blade while cutting some 0.150" S30V. This particular blade hasn't even cut any damascus, just some 416, O1, S30V, and ATS. It was maybe 4 months old!?!?!

I went through 3 of these Lennox blades this last year.

The only thing I can think of that I'm NOT doing, is taking the tension off of the machine when not in use (like you're supposed to do on a wood-working band-saw).

Upon inspecting the blade after it broke, there were MANY small fractures in the blade...any of which could have been a major break.

I've heard some guys saying they're getting 1-2 years out of ONE blade.


Any thoughts?
Nick
 
How thick are the blades? I have never broken a blade and I do all the bad things...

maybe you should try blades from another maker?
 
One blade I had burned through its teeth cutting ATS34 one day. Swapped for a second one, worked like a charm, still cutting with it--ats, o1, 1080, various other materials. (4x6 here, too)
 
I use the same blades Nick, only had one on the machine for almost two years I guess by now. And yeah, I don't treat it very well - cut thin stock. lay into it, keep pressure on it (never thought of relieving it frankly). So I sure don't know what to tell you. I haven't examined the blade for cracks, but I will and report back. My saw is the HF cheapie, so the blade does pop off occasionally. ;)

Dave
 
Hi Nick!

I just ordered bandsaw blades from MSC. About three years ago I was in the same boat.....blades lasting only a short time. I spent tons of $$ buying the bi-metal blades locally. I talked to the folks at MSC and they suggested trying their "M-42" or "Pulsator" blades. I ordered two the the M-42 (8%cobalt teeth) and have found that I now can get through a years worth of knifemaking on two blades! For what we do, I've found the combo toothed blades don't seem to work very well. The larger teeth tend to break off quickly, so now I generally stick with the 18 tooth wavy blades. They are a bit slow when cutting heavy material, but with the advent of the "hot cutter" for mosaic, it's not much of a problem.
 
Here's a tip I found out not long ago and it seems to work for me. Alot of the blades need to be broken in. I was told to take a piece of round stock and just use slight pressure on the teeth for a few minutes and some how this helps condition the blades and it does seem to work better and give the blades longer life.
 
I use a 14 tooth bi metal for everything. However, I DO take the tension off when not in use.
One other thing I do is, when you put on a new blade, start the saw and on the back of the blade, round the two edges slightly, from both sides, with a pocket stone. Try to smooth the sides a little, so it smooths the weld area too, but be careful not to get it on the teeth at all.
I haven't had any breakage problems since I started doing that, plus it helps making curved cuts.

I read that tip somewhere, just can't remember where. Engnath maybe?:confused:
 
Nick I can't help but think a lot of your problems lie in the guide system on your particular saw. I know you have not had success in getting your saw to make square cuts which is why I comment on the guides. My cheapie HF cuts square as can be horizontally as well as vertically. The multiple cracks in the blade can only be caused by stress of some sort. Something, somewhere, on that particular saw just ain't right buddy. As for blade tension I tighten mine as tight as possible by hand then break out the big channel locks and tighten some more till the blade goes "ting" when you strum it like a string. I don't ever lessen the tension on mine and I've had that blade on it over a year now. It has come off several times but I just go through the same tightening routine. My saw has been abused too. Dumping it over onto the floor, reworking the motor stator w/ a large ball peen hammer when it wouldn't work after the saw fell over onto the motor housing(the hammer actually saved the motor - go figure!)
Nick if you have a broken blade cut a section of it that is longer than the distance between your guides. Take the blade off the saw, and see if the short piece will go into your guides without forcing in any direction. The space between the guides and the blade section should allow a thin pc. of paper to be inserted in w/ the blade. Check these things, adjust as necessary and if that don't work take a big hammer and beat the %@#%$@ out of the saw and go buy a new one.
 
Raymond and Mike, thanks! I've heard both of those suggestions before and I did break my blade in cutting a 1" square bar of soft steel. I wonder if that is what's helped? Mike I'm going to radius my blade before I cut again; wish I'd remembered that before. :(

I can't get MSC or Brownell's to send me a catalog; I guess I don't have an impressive enough business name... Good thing for Travers, they get a lot of business from me because they deigned to send me a catalog. :)

Dave
 
Check these folks out. I been using thier blades for ages and they just won't quit. I was buying them thru metalmart.com but I don't think they carry them anymore so I guess you have to straight to the source. Last time I bought some I got three and the two extras are still hangin on the wall. Thats been at least 2 years. They were only $16 and some change each and I cut everything with em.

The link L6 posted was to a website with some nasty spyware on it. I'm sure he didn't know that; don't blame him. If you clicked on it before I deleted it, go to www.ad-aware.com and get the cure. In fact, do that anyway if you're not already in the habit of running Ad-Aware frequently. It's a good habit to get into; the net is a big world with some nasty predators in it....
-Cougar :{)
 
Nick, what Bill said reminded me of something. I changed the table out a long time ago. I replaced the stock table with one I made from 1/8" mild steel plate. The stock model vibrated like crazy. Maybe that has something to do with the breakage. Too many bad vibes maaan!;) :D
 
Nick,

I also have the cheapie HF model, never lessen the tension, etc. On J.D. Smith's recommendation I started with the 18 t.p.i. Starrett from MSC. I am blanking on the name right now, because it has changed from when he recommended it till when I bought it. But it is basically their top of the line and goes for @ $18. Probably one of the one's Ed mentioned. J.D. had the same one blade the entire time I worked with him and I have had the same blade since I bought my saw over two years ago. Cuts everything, no problem. Like Bill said, it pops off at times, but that's the saw, not the blade.

Good luck,

JOhn
 
Thanks everybody-

I'll look into those blades from MSC, thanks Ed and John! I had thought the Lennox was supposed to be the best, that's why I had went with them.

Bill, I took the saw apart and made sure the bearings were tightened appropiately awhile back, and it has cut square ever since. I still wish the blade guide could be brought closer to the work.

It really sucks, because my saw is a Jet, and cost $250...if I had only known the HF was the same saw for $100 less... grrrr:mad: It was the first knifemaking tool I ever bought though.

I've actually replaced the bearings since I bought it with higher quality bearings. I made a replacement table that has a 1/8" aluminum base plate screwed to 3/4" high density melamine (so that's not a problem).

Mike, I'll try that rounding trick on the next one, thanks!

Thanks alot everyone! :D
Nick
 
I forgot a few things.

I always break the blades in by cutting some slices off of a 2.5" round bar (slowly).

L6, can you say the name of that place? I missed the link before it got pulled.

And Bill...I have a 12 lb. sledge just in case all else fails. Speaking of which, did any of you guys see the "Great American Bike build-off" on Discovery Channel? On one episode he couldn't get his HF saw to cut w/o the blade popping off, so he took a sledge and busted it into about 8 pieces?!?!?!?! :eek:

Thanks,
Nick
 
I've had great luck with Industrial Distribution Group, formerly E.C. Blackstone, for band saw blades. I get Matrix 2, DieMaster and others much cheaper than what I could get from MSC, and I am a huge customer of MSC. I use 10' blades and they average $10 less per blade. 800-866-6241, if any of you want to try them.
They have 24tpi that are .020 for you titanium sawers. Good people.
 
That's where I've been buying them for the last 3 or so years Kit. It

The lower price makes it hurt less when they break, but it still sucks, and puts a kink in things.

Thanks,
Nick
 
Sorry guys but the link works fine for me.
No spy ware or browser highjacker or anything.
I got the link by going to Ellis' web site, then bringing up their contacts page and copying the url.
 
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