bi-metal blade life expectancy???

L6, download and run Ad-Aware. Of course your computer seems to be working fine ... spyware is designed so it's not easy to detect....
 
Say Cougar, I'm running a Mac; Ad-Aware doesn't appear to have a version for OS X. Do you suppose because I'm among the "odd men out" my machine might be safe from spyware too?

More than just a little curious...
 
Cougar, I've had ad aware for a couple years and run a scan every two or three days. I ran one after clicking on the link and bringing up the page and then closing it out and ad aware said my pc was clean.
 
Mike,
It's OK, really. :) No harm no foul. One member had a serious problem with it so rather than take a chance we did a pre-emptive strike.
 
I use Spyhunter and Ad-Aware both. Neither found any intrusion with that link. It's humorous, as I have my machine set up to prompt before allowing third party cookies and there are several of those that attempt to load when one accesses BF. This is not a criticism, because it is common on e-forums. I WAS a bit surprised when it tried to load a "www.Knivesby.com" cookie.:)
 
Try updating to Adaware 6.181, the newest version, plus the newest ref update that goes along with it.
I just put that site(ellis) in my favorites, then ran a scan. It shows up as a browser hijack attempt, and is listed on their blacklist for such things. It pulls the link right out of favorites to be dealt with as one desires.
I just deleted it.:eek:
It's a shame as the ellis site looks like a great place.:(
 
THink it's because you added it to favorites, Mike? I looked through all my cookies and didn't see anything like that?
 
Sorry, L6, a lot of great knifemakers are complete weenies when it comes to computers and I just assumed you didn't know your computer was infected. (It's easy to make a fool of yourself making assumptions about people on the net; I do it all the time. :footinmou )

Now I think the difference is more likely the opposite -- you're running security that kept it from infecting your computer in the first place. That could be just a matter of browser settings.

Ad-Aware is not prone to false alarms. The way it works it's hard to see how it could give a false alarm. But now the question has been raised I suppose I'll have to disable all the security on my computer, change all my browser settings to allow anything, and see if I can get an infection and if so what it looks like ... and then clean it off and re-enable and reset everything ... I don't have time right now, but maybe later tonight ... I'll post what I find.
 
Originally posted by fitzo
THink it's because you added it to favorites, Mike?
Click to expand...


Yes. The other day it was in my favorites all day before I ran a scan. I started getting all kinds of spam from weird sites I never heard of. After the scan, and the deletion of the ellis link(3) from favorites, the spam stopped.
The spyware is probably not from ellis, their site is just a launching pad for it, and it sends your email address to many spammers.
 
I've been investigating.... First I clicked on the link without disabling any of my security -- didn't get anything. Then went back to it and bookmarked it -- still nothing. Then added the website to my trusted zone (allowing cookies, active scripting, etc.) and went back to it -- got this:

Vendor:Possible Browser Hijack attempt
Category:Vulnerability
Object Type:RegKey
Size:-
Location:...\ZoneMap\Domains\ellissaw.com\
Last Activity:11-25-03
Risk LevelMedium
Comment:Trusted zone presumably compromised : ellissaw.com
Description:Possible attempt to control\redirect the browser. This object referrs to a "blacklisted" site.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure exactly what that means yet, but I'm ready to quit for the night.
 
I hope this sort of thing gets included in the no spamming list legislation.
Spammers should have their equipment ground into fine dust on the belt grinder (shop content).
 
Cougar, I owe you an apology!
After reading your post, I decided it was time I broke down and coughed up the $$$ and got the paid version of ad aware, I've been using the free version.
Once I had it installed I ran a scan and it found 14 items on my pc that the other version missed!
Thanks for talkin down to me this time!!!
 
Okay, and update and more questions.

I called the tech at MSC and he said that the Lenox Diemaster II is exactly the blade he would have suggested. When I explained how I use it and the cracks in the blade, he told me it's thermal wear.

He said the blade was running either too fast or too slow. So what sfpm do you guys run your saw at? And if you don't know the surface feet, what RPM do you fun it at?

I've actually been running mine fairly fast. The local tool guy told me that the blade couldn't clear the chips when running slower.

I also found out the the Diemaster II IS M-42, just like Starrett's blade Ed recommended.

How thick is your blade? Mine were 0.025", but the tech guy suggested going down to 0.020"

I found somewhere on a Lenox page that most blade breakage is due to improper tension. Now to get the tension, I have been putting a rag on the tensioner and tightening it AS TIGHT as I can get it. I read somewhere that on these saw you need to put a heavier handle on the tensioner to get enough tension. How about you guys?

Thanks,
Nick
 
Nick, I've tried all three speeds on those things, and found that, for me, and the steel I'm using, 440C, ATS34 etc, that the highest speed, 200FPM works the best. :eek:
 
Nick,
I run a 10' blade on my Dake and run it on the slowest speed for cutting everything (steel, synthetic handle material, & Ti), but faster for wood. I use the Diemaster and Matrix 2. 14 and 18 tpi are .020 and the 24 tpi are .020 normally 1/2" wide. I use a 1" wide 10 tpi on fast speed for slabbing blocks of handle material.
When you first put the blade on, do you let it run for awhile to get the "kinks" out of it?
I also put some pretty good tension on it. I don't have a blade tensioner guage.
 
Nick , After reading this thread I was going to post on what type of blades I 'm using and how long they last. But what accured to me was that I dont seem to be as concerned as most of the poster are. I figure if I get 10 to 15 knives out of a 18.00 blade my cost per knife is a 1.50 or there abouts. On a 600.00 knife thats less than a half of a persent of the cost of the knife. I can live with that. By the way I use Lenox Bi-metal.

Michael
 
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