Big Bowie Critique

AntCaps

AntCaps

Joined
May 6, 2009
Messages
928
hey guys,
I just want some feedback on a big bowie im going to be working on for the next while. This is a personal project iv always wanted a big bowie i love big blades. This is roughly junglas size for reference.
its going to be 1/4'' 80Crv2 full tang, im going to get it water jet cut along with a bunch of other things. the guard is going to be a sandwich construction meaning i will have 2 additional guard shapes cut and fasten them to each side of the blank.

 
The only changes I would make would be to remove the sharp tips at the ends of the guard and make the Ricasso the same width as the front of the handle.
 
Thanks Mr.Sanders,
Would widening the handle to match the Ricasso also be an acceptable solution? i dont like the idea of leaving the straights of the guard hanging out there?
 
I see what your saying on Monday I'll make a mockup and see if it's still comfy I like big handles so I'll test it out
Thanks
 
Personally, I think 1 1/4" is about as wide as you can go in that area and still be reasonably comfortable. I normally shoot for somewhere between 7/8" & 1 1/8" on larger knives, 3/4"-1" on med. sized knives, & 5/8"- 7/8" on small knives. But hey, if 1 3/4" feels good to you then go for it. Just remember that its gonna feel a lot different after you add handle scales.
 
I agree with the other two gents. Match the handle to the ricasso. If you don't like the guard flats hanging out there it should be easy enough to adjust the curve of the guard. Try to blend transitional lines. The line across the top of the ricasso into the top of the handle will look better if you match the height and angle so it flows through the guard. Same with the underside of the ricasso into the underside of the handle. It will be interesting to see how you construct and shape the guard and handle, particularly where the twain shall meet. The overall shape and proportions look nice. At some point you may want to take a look at softening some corners like the angle on top of the handle and the corners of the butt of the handle. These harsh corners can become uncomfortable in use. Also, be careful not to place your handle pins too close to the edges. The pins at the corners of the butt may look ok in a flat drawing but after you shape your handle material you may end up with some thin sections. Those are areas where you may get some chip out of the handle. Good choice of steel. 80CrV2 is tough and takes a very nice edge.
 
Thanks for all the info guys.
I know it's going to feel different with scales whenever I'm trying a new handle shape I cut 3 copies of it out of 1/4 hard board and stick them together. I think I'm going to re draw the handle and guard once I get home after the weekend.
I think I'm going to thin out the handle to 1 3/8ish I'll start the curve if the guard earlier and I'll bring the ricasso up to the handle.
Oh and as for the sharper points on the handle those will get smoothed out a but once I do the scales.
 
If the front of the handle ends up too wide, just make the ricasso narrower. A lot of folks believe that knives like this look best when the ricasso and handle at the guard are the same depth. One of the common complaints about a number of mass reduced full tang Sheffield "hunter sized" bwoeis is that they went with the full tang to reduce labor and they used the old straight, skinny "coat peg" handle so that they could slip the guard on without having to forge out the tang wider after the guard was on like Michale Pricer and some others did.
 
I really debating making it a ring guard I'll probably draw a couple versions and see what looks best.
 
ok so i think i found a happy medium brought the ricasso up and made the handle about 1 1/4 wide im going to make a cutout tomorrow to test it out.
i also thickened up the guard a little its a little more beefy but i like it and i can always thin it down a bit if needed il also dull the points when finishing the handle.

 
I've only done a couple bowies and sculpted handles. The latest one I made, I was able to take with me to a hammer in to get critiqued by other makers. All but one maker said the handle was too big. Problem is my hands are gigantic. The maker who liked the handle had hands like mine. My handle and ricasso is 1-1/4" tall. The general consensus was 1"-1-1/8" on a big Bowie is what you should shoot for. The handle will feel less like a framing hammer and more like a cutting tool. I think that you'll need to move the swell in the handle forward when shaping it for more comfort. On most sculpted handles you'll see that the 2-finger point and the top palm swell point aren't as far apart as you have drawn. In my opinion I like to have the skinniest portion of the handle at the guard. In your current version it gets skinnier just behind that. I think your first pin is too close to the guard, but I suck at pin placement. These are just things I see, I am just a hack so take it for what it's worth. Cut the profile out of a pice of wood and see what needs changing.
 
Thanks for the constructive criticism (no sarcasm implied) I'm going to head over to Home Depot and get some more 1/4 mdf cut out 3 copies glue them together and find out.
I placed the humpback where I did so when I grip the handle further back for maximum length that dip follows the shape of my palm perfectly. It was on my first cut out I made and it felt great.
It's funny you mention feeling like a framing hammer I form and pour concrete and when forming I use a 26 or 28 ounce hammer and the grip is similar, maybe I'm just comfortable with a bigger wider grip.
 
AntCaps said:
Thanks for the constructive criticism (no sarcasm implied) I'm going to head over to Home Depot and get some more 1/4 mdf cut out 3 copies glue them together and find out.
I placed the humpback where I did so when I grip the handle further back for maximum length that dip follows the shape of my palm perfectly. It was on my first cut out I made and it felt great.
It's funny you mention feeling like a framing hammer I form and pour concrete and when forming I use a 26 or 28 ounce hammer and the grip is similar, maybe I'm just comfortable with a bigger wider grip.
Click to expand...
First thing Tim Hancock said about my Bowie was "are you a framer"? lol
 
Hey guys,
I have another question, is there any advantage to a clip point as opposed to the drop point if drawn.
The only thing I can think of is a finer point.
 
A clip or swedge will give you better penetration, it will adjust balance toward the guard, give you less weight out front for quicker handling and as well as less drag through the medium being cut. If your blade design is for fighting and the clip is sharpened, it also allows for a back cut.
 
I'm not sure what this things purpose is I'm sure it's too big and heavy to be a fighter (not that I'm getting in regular knife fights lol) it will probably end up being what I carry around while camping. I know it's not the best design for that if just always wanted a big Bowie.
 
Not sure I would go with a two piece (sandwich) guard. I would slot it and slide it up to the ricasso. I would worry about a two piece coming loose under heavy use. I think you will find that that guard shape is going to get in the way if you really start "working" the knife hard.
 
It's going be full tang so I can't slide the guard up but I'm going to use screws to fasten every thing I have a weird thing about the stuff I make I like it to be able to be completely disassembled. If it ever comes loose I'll tighten it backup and use some lock tight
 
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