BK-9 Chipped Blade?

Seraphus said:
I just looked into the work sharp system. Do you think it's worth getting the more expensive "Ken Onion" edition?
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I have the standard version and it gets my blades razor sharp without a problem each time.. I think the ken onion edition has a few extra features such as speed control and more angle options, but the standard suits my needs perfectly. I don't regret saving the extra bucks. Get the leather stropping belt as well and your blades will be unbelievably sharp. You should also get a sharpening steel or field sharpener to maintain your edge while out in the field, but I dont think youll need to spend more than 20 bucks maybe 25 on that Worksharp makes a good field sharpener also, but i mainly just use a steel to realign the edge if it rolls.
 
Thought you might want to know it seems like after a couple of sharpenings you get to better steel that is more resistant to chips and rolls. This seems to happen in every knife ive had both production and custom. I am not sure why but i have definitely noticed it. Never knew a knife got better with age but in my knife journey it seems to be the case.

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Pioneer Valley said:
Thought you might want to know it seems like after a couple of sharpenings you get to better steel that is more resistant to chips and rolls. This seems to happen in every knife ive had both production and custom. I am not sure why but i have definitely noticed it. Never knew a knife got better with age but in my knife journey it seems to be the case.

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Ive had the same experience. What do you sharpen with?
 
Start with dmt diamond fine, then white Arkansas, then black arkansas, then 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper on a paint stick, then 2000 wet dry. Gets close to mirror. Some of these steps might be redundant but it works for me. When i found the sandpaper trick it really upped my sharpness level. This is my process if the knife is really dull. Sometimes all i need is the paint stick sandpaper.

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Pioneer Valley said:
Thought you might want to know it seems like after a couple of sharpenings you get to better steel that is more resistant to chips and rolls. This seems to happen in every knife ive had both production and custom. I am not sure why but i have definitely noticed it. Never knew a knife got better with age but in my knife journey it seems to be the case.

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Knife companies that hand-apply the edge, like Randall and apparently Lile (both quite dull from the factory), are good from the start when you make them sharp by hand the first time.

Power-tool applied edges are always lacking in apex cohesion, even from a professional sharpener using water-cooled belts.

In good cases, one sharpening will improve things. In bad cases they don't, or require significant blunting to improve apex cohesion.

I used to think this was baloney, mind you, but now I am a complete convert, after I saw much thinner and sharper hand-applied edges become "tougher"... That opens your eyes...

Gaston
 
Thanks guys just ordered the Ken Onion Work Sharp!


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Pioneer Valley said:
I do not own a Becker but the way that Mr. Ethan responds to warranty questions is second to none. What a classy company. I think i am in the market for a new blade 😀.

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You can't not have a nine

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Ethan is like a mother hen taking care of all us little peeps, lol. Yes, after a couple of sharpenings your edge gets better, my best guess is that power tools generate too much friction heat that leaves a slightly softer factory edge; the last step when I finish a knife is to set the edge with a belt and finish it by hand on coarse/mid/fine stones or diamonds and strop on 2 belts just to make sure it has a proper edge. Next time you go batoning, it helps to have the wood resting over a stump or bigger log to avoid ground contact. Now go have fun with your steel!
 
Silverthorn said:
From what I have read and seen, knives that are sharpened on a belt have a thin layer of slightly softer steel right at the edge from the heat of the belt. Some people more experienced and smarter than me can chime in if I understood this wrong, but my understanding is that once you sharpen those dings out, you should be less likely to get them again. Any steel can roll or chip from hitting something hard, but it seems from what I have gleaned from these forums that a new blade that hasnt been resharpened is more likely to have that happen to it. Enjoy your new steel though, the 9 is a great blade.
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If it's sharpened skillfully on a belt this shouldn't be the case-what is often the case is when factory knives are HT'd (in any factory, not just Ka-Bar) they are ground veeeery close to finished dimensions-this results in a kittle bit of decarburization at the edge, which does sharpen out (Ethan, correct me if Ka-Bar does it differently).
This is why the old timers will occasionally say a knife can't be judged until it's been sharpened a couple two three times.
 
J W Bensinger said:
If it's sharpened skillfully on a belt this shouldn't be the case-what is often the case is when factory knives are HT'd (in any factory, not just Ka-Bar) they are ground veeeery close to finished dimensions-this results in a kittle bit of decarburization at the edge, which does sharpen out (Ethan, correct me if Ka-Bar does it differently).
This is why the old timers will occasionally say a knife can't be judged until it's been sharpened a couple two three times.
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what he said :>

i've found the factory edge is a good suggestion. after a little work, and some sharpenings you see the true character emerge, esp with more traditionally heat treated knives imho (like khuks and what not)...

in the field, a few strokes with a medium stone usually removes the worst of it. which i personally believe is a good thing if you intend to keep working. you can even use a smooth stone you find nearby.

oh, learning to sharpen? put that machine down... no bench grinders for you! low and slow... learn by hand first to get a feel for it.

you CAN (and cough cough will) ruin your knife faster than you can say "W T F" with a machine if you aren't versed in the way of things.

cough, don't cough ask Ethan how he knows, cough

THEY say to practice on a butter knife (with a machine)
 
oh, yeah, and for your chopper and processing needs, if you learn to put a convex edge on, you'll be happier long run...

they don't always feel hair popping sharp (please, don't go that route ;>), but they will work alllllllll day.
 
Bladite said:
oh, yeah, and for your chopper and processing needs, if you learn to put a convex edge on, you'll be happier long run...

they don't always feel hair popping sharp (please, don't go that route ;>), but they will work alllllllll day.
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Oh, if you keep your geometry correct, you can go tree-topping hair popping sharp and not worry about chips...the key is keeping geometry that's suited to the task :D
 
J W Bensinger said:
Oh, if you keep your geometry correct, you can go tree-topping hair popping sharp and not worry about chips...the key is keeping geometry that's suited to the task :D
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Only the old ones know how to do that :)
 
Hey Seraphus.....

I have had great good luck with a Norton Fine India stone.......cheap(under 20 bucks) and a mainstay in many a Mastersmith's shop....... Try to find Jerry Fisk's sharpening video(anybody got a link?) .... I always suggest getting the crappiest knife in the drawer to practice with... The butter knife can be a bit tedious to get an edge on .... LOL....If you have any carbon steel kitchen blades that would be good as they are a similar steel......sharpe by drawing the blade into the stone at about the angle the factory did but Mayhap jus a wee tad steeper..... Sharpen one side first until you can feel a slight burr(called a wire edge) and then repeat on the other side until the burr appears...... Strop on damn close to anything.... Your pant leg, an old belt, news print, cardboard, etc...... You can get very fancy or spend beaucoup bucks later

If you like give me a call.....

By the by, we were ALL of us where you are ...... Welcome to a grand new adventure....

All best.....

Ethan
 
Any easy system to use is the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Pair it with a fresh single cut mill bastard file or a rough grit stone, and chip/ dent removal is a breeze. Practice on some cheap knives and the skill will come fast. Stay away from power tools till you have practice with them. They offer fast reward but also super fast and unfixable damage if used incorrectly. Ethan's suggestion of the Norton India Stone can result in world class edges with a little practice. I like the dual grit version myself.
 
Bill Siegle said:
Any easy system to use is the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Pair it with a fresh single cut mill bastard file or a rough grit stone, and chip/ dent removal is a breeze. Practice on some cheap knives and the skill will come fast. Stay away from power tools till you have practice with them. They offer fast reward but also super fast and unfixable damage if used incorrectly. Ethan's suggestion of the Norton India Stone can result in world class edges with a little practice. I like the dual grit version myself.
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i use the norton dual disc puck on my axes and my field tools. assuming you don't need a full reprofile, they're pretty good at keeping the edge going.

one of these yarns, i'll get a nice belt system, to yearly fix blades or new stuff or MAKE THINGS...

though i'm eyeing one of those SLOW wide wet grinder tor meck thangs for doing such work with slight hollows that scythes require :D i have an older model of something or other, but it's a bit TOO fast, and not wet, nor the diameter embiggened enough. still, it might do with tinkering and speed controller. it's a hobby after all, not a profession.
 
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