BK-9 Chipped Blade?

zuluninja said:
Ethan is like a mother hen taking care of all us little peeps, lol. Yes, after a couple of sharpenings your edge gets better, my best guess is that power tools generate too much friction heat that leaves a slightly softer factory edge; the last step when I finish a knife is to set the edge with a belt and finish it by hand on coarse/mid/fine stones or diamonds and strop on 2 belts just to make sure it has a proper edge. Next time you go batoning, it helps to have the wood resting over a stump or bigger log to avoid ground contact. Now go have fun with your steel!
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Yea freehand sharpening is something I ended to work on and learn to do eventually. I'll definitely do that in time. Thanks fo the tips on batoning as well!

Ethan Becker said:
Hey Seraphus.....

I have had great good luck with a Norton Fine India stone.......cheap(under 20 bucks) and a mainstay in many a Mastersmith's shop....... Try to find Jerry Fisk's sharpening video(anybody got a link?) .... I always suggest getting the crappiest knife in the drawer to practice with... The butter knife can be a bit tedious to get an edge on .... LOL....If you have any carbon steel kitchen blades that would be good as they are a similar steel......sharpe by drawing the blade into the stone at about the angle the factory did but Mayhap jus a wee tad steeper..... Sharpen one side first until you can feel a slight burr(called a wire edge) and then repeat on the other side until the burr appears...... Strop on damn close to anything.... Your pant leg, an old belt, news print, cardboard, etc...... You can get very fancy or spend beaucoup bucks later

If you like give me a call.....

By the by, we were ALL of us where you are ...... Welcome to a grand new adventure....

All best.....

Ethan
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Thank you for all the advice! I am really humbled by you and all the other people on here so willing to help me and take the time out of their day for me. I am taking in all this information and will use this as an opportunity to improve and learn.

Chameleonbear said:
https://youtu.be/aFpc20xXkPQ

This is Moose's video of Fisk sharpening boss.
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Thanks! I'll check that out. These guys always seem to make things look super easy haha.

kenash said:
Man, I love this place!
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Yea I'm starting to feel the same way.

Bill Siegle said:
Any easy system to use is the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Pair it with a fresh single cut mill bastard file or a rough grit stone, and chip/ dent removal is a breeze. Practice on some cheap knives and the skill will come fast. Stay away from power tools till you have practice with them. They offer fast reward but also super fast and unfixable damage if used incorrectly. Ethan's suggestion of the Norton India Stone can result in world class edges with a little practice. I like the dual grit version myself.
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I'll look into those methods as well. What do you think about the Lansky system? http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe...64238&sr=8-1&keywords=knife+sharpening+system
 
Seraphus said:
Yea freehand sharpening is something I ended to work on and learn to do eventually. I'll definitely do that in time. Thanks fo the tips on batoning as well!




Thank you for all the advice! I am really humbled by you and all the other people on here so willing to help me and take the time out of their day for me. I am taking in all this information and will use this as an opportunity to improve and learn.



Thanks! I'll check that out. These guys always seem to make things look super easy haha.



Yea I'm starting to feel the same way.



I'll look into those methods as well. What do you think about the Lansky system? http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe...64238&sr=8-1&keywords=knife+sharpening+system
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I have the crappier Smiths version of this. It works really well for me but you have to be careful. The clamp sometimes doesn't work too well and may not give the same angle on both sides so I flip the Blade and only use the fixed side of the clamp for my angle. Also, it rarely lines up with the factory edge and sometimes the factory edge is a bit different on each side. I use the course stone and reprofile it so I can resharpen it easier since it will line up perfectly.

So, to make a short story long...
Its OK, I make the Blade match my system for easier future maintenance. I use the 20deg mark to reprofile, it's a nice angle and works well for me, I've had no issues. I'll also use the stones free hand for touch ups. Theres similar systems that are much better but also more costly. I'd say it's good for a beginner just be careful. Good thing is, it's hard to ruin a Blade with it, any hiccups are an easy fix.
 
In my opinion, everybody should learn free hand first before moving on to any system, but that's my opinion, take it as you want. An easy trick to get consistent angles on an edge on a stone is the sharpie method. Just black out the bevel, let it dry, and then when you go over the stone check on it after a couple of swipes to see where on the edge are you taking the ink off. To this day, I still do this.
 
Great posts so far. The only thing I'd add is this: given the reprofiling that your 39 needs, and your lack of experience at sharpening, I think you will get frustrated if you try to rectify that by hand sharpening, unless you are a supremely patient person.

I have the regular work shop and it's OK. I learned a lot about sharpening, mostly because the process is sped up (relative to hand sharpening) so I can see progress faster and not second-guess myself so much. But if I had it to do over again, I'd just get a larger belt sander. Harbor Freight has one for like $50 I think.

That said, I have eaten through a lot of steel with the power sharpener, so be prepared for that. If you get a power sharpener, and you don't have any old carbon steel kitchen knives to practice on, then I'd consider picking up an Old Hickory to learn on.
 
Seraphus said:
Thank you very much for your response. As you can probably tell, I'm fairly new to outdoor craft and knives.

It's good to hear that this is not a more serious issue. What methods would you suggest to sharpen the knife?

Like I said, I'm new to this, so freehand sharpening is not something I've ever done. Are there guided systems that will work well with a knife this size?

Once again, I appreciate your response Mr. Becker and I'm happy you're here to help us all! I will give you a call if I feel I need more guidance.


To everyone else: Thank you for taking the time out of your days to respond and inform me.
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It looks to me like the original edge was too fine for batoning wood. It is a common occurence and can be easilly repaired by resharpening to a slightly less aggressive edge.

n2s
 
I don't own any Beckers but after reading this thread and a couple in the past as well as My Beckers response I think I will have to get me one or two.
 
gedlicks said:
I don't own any Beckers but after reading this thread and a couple in the past as well as My Beckers response I think I will have to get me one or two.
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the warranty is outstanding as well :D
 
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