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Bk2 sharpening

clich said:
I'm not fond of any sharpening system really. When you get freehanding down its a relaxing, stress relieving, Zen type moment you have with your Blade. Gets you to know her in and out, like your high school sweetheart. That's one you will always know how to rub the right way.
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Makes since
 
Hello all.

Just joined the forum today and I must say I'm so glad I did some research here on sharpening my new BK2 (wasn't thrilled with the factory edge). I used 220 to 600 grit paper to force a convex edge using free hand on a mouse pad. Took about 30 mins or so to complete the smooth convex geometry on the edge. I then used a strop with green compound to finish up the edge (50-100 passes), and I'm extremely proud and pleased on the razor sharp smooth edge I have on the BK2. I'm more pleased with what I consider to be a low maintenance and easy sharpening method I can easily transfer in the field too.
 
Tobigoldfinger said:
Hello all.

Just joined the forum today and I must say I'm so glad I did some research here on sharpening my new BK2 (wasn't thrilled with the factory edge). I used 220 to 600 grit paper to force a convex edge using free hand on a mouse pad. Took about 30 mins or so to complete the smooth convex geometry on the edge. I then used a strop with green compound to finish up the edge (50-100 passes), and I'm extremely proud and pleased on the razor sharp smooth edge I have on the BK2. I'm more pleased with what I consider to be a low maintenance and easy sharpening method I can easily transfer in the field too.
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Welcome to the madhouse! I'm glad that you were able to get a satisfying edge so quickly!

Have a seat and stay a while my friend, it's gonna be a long ride :thumbup:
 
Convex your edge, makes in way better at cutting and chopping stuff. Best way IMO is to use sandpaper and a LEATHER strop. You'll need to start with 80 grit otherwsie it'll take you till your like 100 to finnish...work your way down ig. 80, 120, 300, 600, 1500. Plus the only maintainance you need for a convex edge is to strop it everynow and then on a leather strop (stropman.com, awesome quality strops hadmade in Texas and Robert is the nicest freaking guy you'll ever meet).

Heres my convex BK2.

BK-2 Convex Edge by CamH_16, on Flickr

[video=youtube;DpyoeAxTolE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpyoeAxTolE&context=C4a2508cADvjVQa1PpcFMGcHe-Uu-GMMCzB3G2jOypVfwnEgQq2lo=[/video]

Hope this makes sense man.
 
I use sandpaper and non-slip shelving material and then a strop loaded with green compound. It's pretty easy and seems to work well enough.

20120323img1845.jpg

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Beckerhead #42
 
Jake5713 said:
god damn

now how do I make a convex edge

VERY VERY INTIMIDATED ON THAT.
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Practice on some cheap knifes first, I've ruined good knifes by attempting a convex edge. Basically you want to remove the shoulders on both sides of the blade so where the bevel changes angle into the primary edge you wanna remove that bit...confusing no?
 
CamH_16 said:
Practice on some cheap knifes first, I've ruined good knifes by attempting a convex edge. Basically you want to remove the shoulders on both sides of the blade so where the bevel changes angle into the primary edge you wanna remove that bit...confusing no?
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I don't have any knives I wanna wreck
 
DeadFall27 said:
****So, before we start let me run down grits I use really quickly.

-100: I use this for re-profiling a really damaged blade. It takes off a lot of metal and I really do not think you need to go any lower than this. I usually start with 100 when I am taking off a factory edge. I did this with my BK2 to knock off the shoulders and thin her out a bit; it is not a full-height convex, but it is close! Do not use it every time you need to sharpen due to how coarse it is...but you probably know that already!

-220: I use it for re-profiling as well, but really only for minor kinks in the edge. I took my 14 to it today since the edge hit an eyelet in its kydex sheath and f*cked it up, and after about 2 or 3 minutes, it was good as new.

-400: I usually start here for general sharpening if I have a working edge on it. You know, the 'it is sharp enough to do what I need it to, but it won't slice paper very well' kind of sharp.

-600: More or less equivalent to a fine sharpening stone. You do not really have to go past this since anything over 600 is polishing the edge, but we are knife nuts!!! I mean, for the average person, that is adequate...but if you want scary sharp demon edges, you need to get that edge as fine and polished as possible.

-1000: 1st polishing, working out scratches from 600 grit..

-2000: making those micro serrations and burrs as small as possible before hitting the strop, working out scratches from 1000 (should be mirror polished or near mirror by now)

-Strop w/ compound: removes final burr, polishes edge. I strop my blades constantly as I use them. If you keep them honed, you do not need to keep sharpening all of the time, so strop when you can. I bring a small strop in the field with me (piece of leather with compound) for this.

****Moving up grits and the like
So, you are sharpening your BK2, right? Well, to start, how is the edge right now? Is it duller than a bookworm's social life? Does it still have a factory edge? Based on what it is right now, you must choose the appropriate grit. I would start at 220 or possibly 100 to make it go a little faster. You remember the technique on the video right? 3 motions: back, turn, down...right?

Let's say you go with 100 grit. Start with whichever method you are most comfortable with (I go from tip to heel) using moderate pressure. If you use too much pressure, the paper will actually come up and blunt the edge!! If you go from tip to hell like me, begin to strop spine first and drop you hand straight down to hit that edge on the belly perfectly. I am serious, practice that really quickly (even if you do it on the tabletop). To hit the belly without messing up, you must drop your hand downwards slightly as you are doing the stropping motion just enough for the edge to be sitting on the paper. (I can add my own pics and the ones Richard sent me if you need more visuals)
If you are going from heel to tip (like in the video), raise your hand up to match the edge. You will get the motion down after some practice. After a while, it becomes second nature. This motion is in Sharpening video 4 on that website.

Sharpen until the edge is the shoulders are knocked off and it has that nice convex shape, has a heightened level of sharpness (mine usually won't shave but it will slice paper fairly well) and that the scratch pattern is done changing. Once you get to that point where the level of sharpness and scratch pattern stays the same, STOP! From there, it is time to move up. Switch out whatever grit you were using and put up the next successive (Ex: 100 to 220, 200 to 400, 400- 600, etc). Do the same thing as last time but with slightly less pressure than last time. Do this until the level of sharpness and scratch pattern do not change and stop. It is important to note that as you move up the grits, ease up on the pressure a little each time. By the time you are up to 2000, it should be almost no pressure at all. After each grit, the level of sharpness should also be getting better as well; getting sharper and sharper as you get finer and finer.
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Would a similar thing work with emery paper (to poor to go out and buy sandpaper, just using emery paper that was laying around) instead of sand paper? As far as the grits go I mean.
 
oXide said:
Would a similar thing work with emery paper (to poor to go out and buy sandpaper, just using emery paper that was laying around) instead of sand paper? As far as the grits go I mean.
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hmmm...I don't have any experience with it, but I do not see why it wouldn't work. Looks like it's time for some google-fu...TO THE INTERWEBZ!!!
 
you can always send it out for sharpening. richardj does a good job I hear. any of the pros should be able to get your knife to pop hair off free hanging hair and regrind your edge to whatever type of profile you want as well. saves a lot of money if your not willing to invest in a system or are scared of powered systems.
 
eccvets said:
you can always send it out for sharpening. richardj does a good job I hear. any of the pros should be able to get your knife to pop hair off free hanging hair and regrind your edge to whatever type of profile you want as well. saves a lot of money if your not willing to invest in a system or are scared of powered systems.
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Very true :thumbup:

I cannot believe I forgot about Richard!! I am actually thinking about having my Bushlore reground for me to a full height convex since...well...he is a master at what he does to put it simply.

Richard is a stand-up guy, you will not regret his services if you go down that road.

I sent my BK3 to him and it came back a whole-nother animal...
 
Sharpmaker sucks for big/thick blades. Since you live down the street from me(maybe a bit farther), I can probably sharpen it for you and also show you my tricks.
 
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