Black under coating, a new process?

OK ..... I guess I sort of get it.

But, I don't guess I understand why Jerry would ship knives with that layer left on under the scales and so prone to rusting. - Probably take a shop a couple of minutes to clean up.

Again, I would rather just buy the blade and possibly scales as a kit if I have to fix so much.

Although..... I thought the competition blades would cost less - So, I might be silly to hope a kit option would save me any money. (??????)


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Yeah, it's nuts. If you have a product, INFI, that's stain resistant; why leave the decarb on and go through the effort and cost of coating them ? You create a problem while running up material costs and labor. Just knock the decarb layer off and forget the coating. Charge what you need to and be done with it. The concept of creating inferior products to sell cheap in your product line is a waste of everyone's time. If you want options, I think people would rather have more handle options than coatings like crinkle black and urban grey.
 
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and they werent that much cheaper than the regular product anyway.
 
So, looks like this thread has been pretty thorough, and I get that the decarb can be removed by sanding or bead blasting. I still have a few 'new guy' questions, though, since I have both a comp finish satin jack (not jackhammer) and a NMFFBM that I stripped the coating off of.

So...

1. Where/who can do sanding/bead blasting? I'm not a metal worker, and I don't really trust myself so much that I'd be willing to take the chance of screwing up my INFI. (I know, it's indestructible, so it's probably stupid proof, just sayin').
2. Is there any chance that putting a satin finish on a comp/stripped blade voids the warranty? (that would suck...)
3. I still don't get the difference between "satin" and "double cut"...

By the way, I used my battle mistress cooking for thanksgiving (mwahaha!), the onions really ate into the decarb...
 
Naga99 said:
So, looks like this thread has been pretty thorough, and I get that the decarb can be removed by sanding or bead blasting. I still have a few 'new guy' questions, though, since I have both a comp finish satin jack (not jackhammer) and a NMFFBM that I stripped the coating off of.

So...

1. Where/who can do sanding/bead blasting? I'm not a metal worker, and I don't really trust myself so much that I'd be willing to take the chance of screwing up my INFI. (I know, it's indestructible, so it's probably stupid proof, just sayin').
2. Is there any chance that putting a satin finish on a comp/stripped blade voids the warranty? (that would suck...)
3. I still don't get the difference between "satin" and "double cut"...

By the way, I used my battle mistress cooking for thanksgiving (mwahaha!), the onions really ate into the decarb...
Click to expand...

1. I think Leatherman can provide this service. Some members here have done their own. Many knifemakers can do blasting, try asking on the Makers forum.

2. If done by hand, (time consuming but possible) you will be OK. Use of power tools starts getting into a grey area.

3. DCBB, double cut bead blast, is a two stage blasted finish, with abrasive grit first followed by a bead blast to smooth it out. Satin is done with a belt sander or Scotchbright.
 
Thanks, Resinguy. I actually started to go after my decarb problem by hand with sandpaper, it's going well, but I can tell it'll take a while. Worth it, though.
 
So is it now the factory norm to ship coated and comp finish knives with the decarb left on? If you want a Busse that does not have it, is an LE version your only option?

Perhaps someone from the shop could chime in. This is new, as the coated knives I've purchased in the past did not have this.

Really just curious for a definite answer, wouldn't stop me from buying more Busse's!:thumbup:
 
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