blade grind difficulty?

I think you guys got the questioner's original question answered.

So why not veer from that and ask the underlying question that really wanted to come out ... which grind suits which type of knife best, in the answering maker's opinion of course. From hollow to flat to full convex, or combos thereof. Stock thickness, final edge thickness, final edge type, distal tapers, all fair game. From small to big burly folders, from small utility fixed blades to hunting knives to fighters, combat knives, so-called camp knives, "Bowies" and big field knives (10-12") on up to even short swords or machetes if you wanna.
 
Yes, my question was certainly answered! Thanks everyone. I'd love to see rdangerer's part II as well!
 
I can't add anything to this that hasn't been said.
except ED. which sock do you put on first in the morning? :D
did you see the Borax Thread? what do you think?
will you elaborate to / on that thread?
 
Graymaker: Usually the right foot. The important part is that I put the toes in first then pull the sock on the rest of the way.

As to the borax thread, if I remember it right, dip hot blade in borax water to clean up a knife, My only comment ios what for? I do not forge tight, I believe that the best cutting edge lies inside of the as forged blade and will grind down to good steel anyway, the borax would be another variable that I feel is unnecssary, but could be fun if that is what you want to do.
 
You've said that more than once and I agree with you.
  you have to get ride of the burnt steel.
  you'll see the problem best I think when you try to mirror polish
a blade that you have not taken this layer all off you'll
see the difficulty in polishing in those parts...
the only thing I can see with s/s wrap is that you have less
scale to clog up a belt so now you have,,,, save money
on a belt or save the cost of s/s wrap.
  I'm off topic here 
 
Greymaker: I was thinking of another thread. If you were refering to Peter Nap's thread on shop talk, it sounds line a very useful variable and could come in handy at times, especially when experimenting with blades that are going to be through a lot of heat cycles and you wish to preserve the origonal geometry.
 
yes ,, say making tools or a die.
for use of the wrap anyway.
I'm still looking into the
atmospheric generator oven.
the steel looks just the same as it did
when you put it in.
it can be done with propane ovens but
I'm not sure on the ele. ovens.
I'm looking for a non flamable gas to do it with.
and hoping it won't leave the shell.
Later
 
I used to think the flat grind was the hardest and went to work learning this style I now think it is no more difficult than hollow grinding but it does take longer to do for the reasons RJ mentioned ,with one ecception. It is NOT necessary to flat grind with a steel ridgid platen. I am in the process of building a rotary flat platen for my burr king using a 2"wide drive belt (like the type used in a belt drive harley only shorter )2ea 4" diameter shivs,one adjustable arm and a turn buckle for tensioning. I will use this contraption instead of the knifemakers attachment allowing me to grind any combination of flat to convex with a mere adjustment to the turn buckle which in turn will tighten or loosen the rotary flat platen.
I know it works well as I have proven it out on a smaller scale. I'll let you know more when I complete it.
 
Mayo, lay off the dude. He's a knife maker, not a technical communications expert - probably is in need of more back meds too. Now that you've disclosed your new "rotary flat platen" you've got a year to file for that next patent! :)

~Mitch
 
Ken: Sounds interesting, but, will you be able to handle the plunge area with that same setup?

RJ Martin
 
Yes Rj very easily, you can do everything you can do on a steel backing and more . But you wont get the marks on your blades from the splice joint on your finer grit belts. I do suggest crowning the corners of the belt for a nicer plunge.
 
You can also get whatever combination of flat/convex grind you desire.As well as finnish grind to whatever grit you desire. No need to disc sand those damn splice joint marks from your blades.I'll post a pix when it is done .
 
No problem Rj, Then maybe we can get mr Frink to make up a mess and save some brother knifemakers a little head ache. What do ya say Mr frink?
The first one I made I used V-belts and standard shivs .I used it with strip belts for getting into those stuborn places like shaping the finger cut out in a nickel silver guard after you've soldered it into place without messing up the handle material. Works great.I just wanted a more solid backing to the slacked strip belt and was impressed with how versatile this system is. You can tighten it so tight that there is literally no flex or soften it a bit to break a sharp corner effortlesly.It literally ads a new dimension to your belt sanders capacity and should be in every knifemakers shop,in both the v-belt form and in the 2" rotary flat platent.My only concern is that a novice may jam a thin blade into the corner of the belt and throw it into his /her face if there not careful. I'll be trimming mine slightly narrower than the 2" belt and radius the corners to help prevent this from happening.
I hope this discovery is helpful to other knifemakers and am glad to contribute. Just remember you heard it here first!
 
Ken,I think that is a good idea, I absoloutley
dispise working on a platen in it's present form.
Please keep us posted on progress and when avaible.
Gib
 
Heck yes! I haven't been able to sleep for about a week....since Mike Fitzgerald mentioned the thread to me. Since then, I've worn out all of the pages in my "power transmission" cataloges looking for belts, shieves, etc. I picture something like a Tank track.....does it need multiple rollers on the grinding face to support the belt or is the tension alone enough for good results. It is a great/clever idea and the most innovative concept since the belt grinder itself (my opinion). It could be made to drive the belt as on the BurrKing and HardCores, or it could coast with the belt as on my KMG1, Baders, and Squarewheels.

Lets get started!

Sincerely,
Rob
 
Mine just coasts with the abrasive belt pulling it along .And yes you only need two shivs the tensioner alone is enough for an incredibly stiff surface. \you will probably need to machine your own shivs out of some round stock aluminum and they can be any size as long you can still fit a sanding belt around your sander.Just make sure you leave a slight lip on them so you can still track your 2-72 belt and not your platent belt
Any industrial bearing company should have the belt you need. Do not get the cog type , make sure to get the kind with the little v cuts that go vertical to the belt or no grooves at all as it won't be driving anything.
Oh by the way I have a burr king and the platent belt only goes around the drive wheel and a make shift wheel above it ( similar to the knifemaker atachment only adjustable)nothing goes arround the idler wheel but the 2+72 belts.
 
"the kind with the little v cuts that go vertical to the belt"
That would be a serpentine Belt. at most automotive stores too.
 
I'd be interested in if this would pick up grit and stick to the belt/s?
 maybe a simple belt brush would keep this from happening.
 
I've been thinking about this too .. after being a tool
 and die maker years ago this stuff gets my interest.

Great Idea.
Click to expand...
 
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