Blade shapes for Filipino arts

I couldn't get the two pictures to work at the same time, so here's the other one (a different one, actually) by itself. Again, this handle is good for several different grips. If this one doesn't suit anyone, I'd appreciate it if you'd show me something more along the lines of what you're thinking of.

1fbp00


- Chris
 
Sorry Hesparus, I should have been more clear. I meant reverse grip, edge in for ripping (Pikal) techniques.
The second knife might be great for reverse grip (edge in) as well as saber grip if the handle is big enough. That way, when you hold it in saber grip, you get a nice amount of punho protruding out. When you hold it in reverse grip and augment the grip with you thumb on the end of the handle, you palm is clear of the finger groove. Can you get four fingers on the part of the handle behind the choil?
or you can keep it the same size and lose the choil.
I always have a hard time posting pictures. Ill try to find you some links.

Did you make these?
 
oh, I see. I don't do many generic grips, but this is one I like a lot.
1fbrpw


It's 4.25" long, about .75" wide at the narrowest point, and 1.3" at the widest.

By the way, what are the various grips that one might use in FMA?
- Chris
 
Roodog said:
Blueworm is a term Ive heard used (specially in the Sayoc Kali system) to describe a deep horizontal lower abdominal cut that usually disembowels the opponent. The reason this is called the blue worm is that supposedly the large intestines look like a big blue worm when thay come falling out. I cant attest to that as Ive never seen it. I still used the term cause blueworm is easier than saying lower abdominal horizontal deep disemboweling cut.

I've never heard that Roodog, your understanding of bladework must be very deep. Everyone i've ever talked to tells me when they bleed, they see red! :confused:

How long have you been training in knifework? You seem very knowladgable in these things? Please keep up the informative posts!
 
Im a novice. Ive only been training in a blade specific system (Sayoc Kali) for 2 years. Like I said in the post, I cannot attest to this visual description, only what Ive been told by my instructor. Its not the blood but the entire large intestines that suppossedly has the appearance of a large blue worm dropping out of the lower abdomenal cut. Sort makes sense, if youve ever watched one of those operation shows on the discovery channel. Internal organs dont all look blood red.
I only use the term cause its an easy way to describe a cut that would take many other longer words to describe.
 
Roodog said:
Im a novice. Ive only been training in a blade specific system (Sayoc Kali) for 2 years. Like I said in the post, I cannot attest to this visual description, only what Ive been told by my instructor. Its not the blood but the entire large intestines that suppossedly has the appearance of a large blue worm dropping out of the lower abdomenal cut. Sort makes sense, if youve ever watched one of those operation shows on the discovery channel. Internal organs dont all look blood red.
I only use the term cause its an easy way to describe a cut that would take many other longer words to describe.

Your instructor is right. But the reason its called a "Blue"worm and not a "Red"worm is that right before blood hits oxygen it is actually blueish in color and not red. It is easier to say a blueworm cut rather than a lower horizantal abdominal aorta cut. I have only heard this term used amongst us in Sayoc.

Roodog, who is your Sayoc instructor? And are you going to Sama-Sama?
 
[Cyclone] said:
Your instructor is right. But the reason its called a "Blue"worm and not a "Red"worm is that right before blood hits oxygen it is actually blueish in color and not red. It is easier to say a blueworm cut rather than a lower horizantal abdominal aorta cut. I have only heard this term used amongst us in Sayoc.

Roodog, who is your Sayoc instructor? And are you going to Sama-Sama?

I'm really glad to know there is so much information online. Cyclone, are you a Sayoc instructor also? Who taught you Sayoc Kali, and how long have you been training in it?

Thanks for sharing fellows.
 
I study with Jim Berkeley in NYC (Tactical Studies is the name of his school). I wont be able to go to Sama Sama (wife with a baby on the way) Maybe next year.
 
As promised, here are my first two complete designs:
1fd5vo
1fd66w


The blades on both are exactly 3.5" long and the handles are 5" for a total (showing off my math skills) of 8.5". I like the design of the second one better, but the handle on the first one is more versatile.
What do you think?

- Chris
 
Roodog said:
I study with Jim Berkeley in NYC (Tactical Studies is the name of his school). I wont be able to go to Sama Sama (wife with a baby on the way) Maybe next year.

Congrads on the baby bro. I have heard some good stuff about Mr. Berkeley.

Sifu Kevin Smith
http://mmai.us
 
Cyclone, Jim is a very talented guy. Hes also very good at Aiki, sword and firearms. Studied in Japan for many years. Thanks. Its baby number two for me so Im looking forward to the juggling a newborn and a two year old.

Hesparus, Id pick the first blade for myself but if you dont use too much reverse edge in than the second blade is just as good. What are you planning on making blade number one out of (handle material and steel)?
 
Roodog said:
Thanks. Its baby number two for me so Im looking forward to the juggling a newborn and a two year old.

I can't imagine dealing with 2 kids. I have one 4 year old boy and thats enough.
;)

Kevin
 
Roodog said:
What are you planning on making blade number one out of (handle material and steel)?


I was figuring I'd make the blade out of 1/8" 154cm stainless and the handle out of 3/8" black linen micarta, although we haven't discussed any of that yet. D2 would be another obvious steel choice and canvas micarta for the scales. (Of course, I'd make the whole thing out of solid gold if that's what the customer wanted ;) ).
Anyway, is there anything you might change about this design? Cyclone, I'm interested in your opinion, too.

- Chris
 
I like both of the designs. But if I had to choose one of them, I would go with the first one. I like the more generic handle. As for the steels, both are great steels. I have alot of knives with both of those steels. I also like AUS 118, and Z-189 (The Ferrari of Blade Steels). And both of the types of micarta are great. I would personally go with the black linen micarta. Are you going to make a sheath for it? If so, what type?
 
Hesparus, Please let us know how these blades turn out and post some pics of them when you get them finished. Any of the steels you mentioned are great. Would there be a big cost difference between the two? I understand D2 is real tough to work with and therefore more expensive.
 
I'm very pleased that you guys like my design, I really appreciate the help on it.
154cm is my old reliable. It's not the best steel out there but it's my favorite all-purpose steel — there's really nothing it can't do well. D2 will hold a better edge so a lot of people like it for smaller fighting knives (it isn't the toughest steel, though, so I wouldn't trust it for anything much bigger than what we're dealing with). It does increase the value of the knife but a lot of people are willing to pay for it. The same goes for upper grade stainless steels like cpmS30v, 440v, and BG42 — which, if Z-189 is the ferarri, these are the porsche, lamborghini and BMW — but any knifemaker will tell you that there is no magic steel that does everything the best. If there were nobody would use anything else.
I really love linen micarta and I put it on almost all of my knives. It's indestructable, 100% stable, attractive, and inexpensive — everything that makes a happy customer. It would be fun to make something extravagant with fossil ivory or pearl handles but I make knives to be used. There are plenty of knifemakers who make fancy knives that I couldn't make in my wildest dreams that I don't even bother to compete with them. I like to think that my knives are attractive but plain enough that you don't feel bad about using it.
As for the sheath, I do functional leather sheaths (read: not terribly attractive), kydex sheaths (which are, by nature, not as attractive as leather but much more functional), and micarta sheaths (which are not particularly practical but they look pretty nice). My kydex sheaths can be made for tip up carry, horizontal carry, diagonal carry, or almost anything you can come up with. My carry systems are frequently interchangable between at least three methods. For example, the knife I'm carrying right now is currently set up for tip up carry but I have carried it diagonal and horizontal as well.
This is one of the knives you saw before (I think) in a sheath that's currently set up for tip up carry. It is connected to the belt loop with a single chicago screw, so it can pivot when you sit down or draw it.
1fjott

I'm not making many knives these days due to the weather, but I'll update you guys with progress reports.

- Chris
 
[Cyclone] said:
I like both of the designs. But if I had to choose one of them, I would go with the first one. I like the more generic handle. As for the steels, both are great steels. I have alot of knives with both of those steels. I also like AUS 118, and Z-189 (The Ferrari of Blade Steels). And both of the types of micarta are great. I would personally go with the black linen micarta. Are you going to make a sheath for it? If so, what type?

I've never heard of those steels. Which makers use that steel?

Cyclone, nice website!! I see you've studied Sayoc. That's great!! How long have you been doing Sayoc? I've never heard of the Brana fighting system, though. What is in it?
 
By the way. Since you guys helped me design it, you can name it if you like. And when it's finished you can decide if you like it enough to have your own names attached to it, as in "The '______' by Chris in collaboration with Sifu Cyclone and Roodog" or whatever.

- Chris
 
Back
Top